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Steel wheel restore questions

Started by Bob BQ, October 20, 2016, 01:37:51 PM

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Bob BQ

Question for those who have brought steel wheels back to life. The wheels on my painted-over-bulk-trash-day-rescue-.22-bullet-holed Avocado... the 'Cado Kid... are actually in decent shape... some rust... nothing horrible, but enough that a simply wire brush or razor is not going to do the job. Also, the treads on both wheels have some splitting/cracking.

I typically bathe whatever I'm needing rust-free in straight vinegar, usually for several days, but I don't want to do that with the steel wheels, as it's my understanding that the acidity would not be good for the rubber treads. 

I've seen the threads that say to use Evap-o-rust, or Whinck Rust Remover.  For those that have used either product, do you just soak the wheels, rubber tread and all, in it? If so, has there been any negative effect on the treads?

I can get Evap-o-rust or Whinck from Harbor Freight or Fail-Mart, but I do have some CLR on hand. Has anyone used that on steel wheels? If so, is it ok to soak the whole thing (again, rubber treads and all) in it?

Regarding the rubber treads, does anyone have a good split/crack solution?  I did find this product, Zap RT on the infernets... sounds like it might be a good solution.

WKC, give me your guidance......................
BBQ:it's what's for dinner. Grail: 18" Custom - "The Californian"

Dale Benson

I've used Evaporust with great success. The process is so easy and the result so effective that I've simply had no inclination to try anything else. I've had no negative issues with submerging the rubber in it. The product is fabulous.
For cracked rubber I use black caulking. Just squeeze it into the cracks and smooth it out with a tiny blade or match stick or toothpick, etc. If you need to you can use a razor blade or exacto knife to carve and trim it down if necessary after it has dried/hardened. With larger cracks or gaps you will probably have to apply a second time, as the caulking shrinks when it dries.
Dale
Have 22" Yellow MBH will trade for 22" Lime :-)

haeffb

I used Whinck Rust Remover and applied it full strength with a small paintbrush to the steel portion of the wheels,  and just kept brushing it until the rust was gone. I then rinsed with water. There's a post from a month or two ago that shows before/after.

Bob BQ

Quote from: haeffb on October 21, 2016, 03:27:07 AM
I used Whinck Rust Remover and applied it full strength with a small paintbrush to the steel portion of the wheels,  and just kept brushing it until the rust was gone. I then rinsed with water. There's a post from a month or two ago that shows before/after.

Yep, that's one of the posts I saw. Looked great, and sounds like it didn't take long, at all! Thanks, Brian.
BBQ:it's what's for dinner. Grail: 18" Custom - "The Californian"

MacEggs


This stuff .... Pics courtesy of @glrasmussen ...  :D ;)



This was less than a minute each wheel. Toothbrush and rinse.

Q: How do you know something is bull$h!t?
A: When you are not allowed to question it.

KevinP

I have a further question about steel wheel restoration. These are the wheels the the redhead I just got about a month ago. They are extremely rusted. In your opinions are they salvageable?  If so, what is your best advice for cleaning?  I am really new to this so any advice will be greatly appreciated.


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Idahawk

Those look pretty far gone , I'd find a replacement pair , search for wagon or stroller wheels


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Wanted plum/burgundy 18.5
WTB Color Copies of old Weber Catalogs

Darko

It looks like one may be able to be rescued but the other is gone.

KevinP

Darko. That was my fear. Idahawk, those are good ideas. Thanks


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Darko

Stick 'em in the rust remover... See what happens. Worst case... you'll learn something about restoration.