regular J-B Weld vs High Heat J-B Weld

[addicted-to-smoke]

On their site, they say the regular stuff is resistant up to 500 degrees F constant (or up to 600 for a few minutes, like 10 mins). The "high heat version" is resistant up to 450 constant. (I've never seen a temporary heat rating for the high heat version.)

So ... I called them up and got clarification about the apparent (to me, at least) discrepancy. Here it is, from J-B Weld Customer Service:

The High Heat version is the highest-heat stuff available from them as a PUTTY, whereas the regular J-B Weld "we all know" is functionally just as good with regard to heat resistance if you want instead something easier to spread.

... And there are differences in cure times; the high heat putty cures much faster, but for the sake of comparisons here let's assume you have plenty of time to wait for curing so long as the fix works as you intend.

... And there are differences in PSI strength, although the company doesn't say what happens to either product as it approaches the heat limit--unfortunately they don't publish the curves. We do know they'll both turn into goo when too hot, or even smoke/burn up, but they don't say what happens to the PSI strength when hot-but-not-hot-enough-to-melt.

For example, the high heat PSI rating is ~800 and regular J-B Weld is more like ~3900, but at what temperatures? 400 degrees F inside a kettle is easy to achieve, below the melt point of either, but what's the strength there? That could come into play for hot leg sockets.


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Applications:

One of my 26 flat tops, ('90s, not "vintage") has both of its metal bowl handles a bit more loose than they should be. Not about to fall off, but can be "bent" or moved a little by hand, you know? There's no damage to them; the welds are just kinda shitty probably. And rusty now. I want to sandpaper and then slather the connection points with regular J-B Weld. I wish the metal inside the bowl at these areas was thicker.

I have an 18 with slightly loose leg sockets and a very small hole (1/8" or smaller, almost a pinhole) in the bottom of the bowl. Based on what I was told today, I'm not sure the high heat version of J-B has advantages here either.

Your thoughts?

[zavod44]

I tried it...it failed

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[stubblebum]

I used to work at a coal fired power plant and we made temporary repairs to pipes that were pretty damn hot with a product from Devcon. I don't remember which one. I would also have to research the health consequences to breathing fumes and if I wanted to use it near food.

Did a search for high temp epoxy and found this. Looks like the special offer page says a tube will cost you $40. Again, no idea if it should be used anywhere food. They also have some pity under Repair Materials.

http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/rm_adhesive.htm

[addicted-to-smoke]

I tried it...it failed

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For handles? Leg sockets?

[zavod44]

I tried it...it failed

Sent from my Motorola Droid Turbo 2

For handles? Leg sockets?

yes

[addicted-to-smoke]

Dang.

Well, on the 26 bowl handles I tried the high heat variety. They were slightly "bent up," I leveled them (easily) and slathered some on, pushing into the cracks around where it meets the bowl as best I could. We'll see if it holds.

[MikeRocksTheRed]

@addicted-to-smoke -  Maybe if it doesn't work you can just super magnetize the handles or the entire kettle so the handles will still hang on if the welds come loose!  LOL


Make a magnet out of anything   

[addicted-to-smoke]

Yeah that was really instructive, Mike ...

So anyway, my plan is to include a 3rd wheel, for easy rolling, no lifting using the handles actually. But that's all part of a separate thing, with longer legs etc. At any rate, the bowl handles never came OFF, I just wanted to shore them up a bit. Worse case, way down the road, they could be drilled and bolted I suppose.

[TexasOnion]

@addicted-to-smoke  I used reg j- b weld on popped porcelain  on the bowl the lower patch failed due to heat from the charcoal grate the upper held near the cooking grate /on the lid I did a few patches from chipped porcelain they held also but the paint I used didn't do as well

[zavod44]

Personally I always bolt, out rivet, it won't fail, it's clean.  A mechanical lock is solid.

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[MacEggs]

I used the high-heat JB in THIS RRR.

Still holding up ... And, I cooked on this little guy a lot after the full restore.  The high-heat paint ... Did not hold up so much.

[DirectDrive]

Here's a porcelain repair that I did...
http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/weber-kettles-accessories/weber-porcelain-repair/
Works OK for as a filler, but for a structural repair.....meh.

[addicted-to-smoke]

Yep, saw yours Mark. Luckily mine's not that bad at all although I did discover one leg socket isn't as strong as the other two. So it might get some slathered on it tomorrow. Touching the handles tonight I can tell they are stiff again; hopefully they'll hold for as much I need them to, which won't be much now.

DD-- that was an amazing restore on that WSM lid. I would have never thought to use JB as a filler like that, but it makes sense if you can get it smoothed in. My handle job is really clunky but hopefully after some high heat glossy BBQ paint it won't look too ghetto.