What finish do YOU use on wooden handles?

[mike.stavlund]

Thanks for starting this thread!  It's very timely for me, as Bman and I are collaborating on rehabbing a couple of older gassers with new handles and wood tables.  In fact, I just bought some spar varnish today to do some field-testing (I've never used it before).

I'm a big fan of teak oil for our patio furniture, but noticed that it takes a while to really 'cure', and I've been worried about it getting tacky when it is really close to a source of high heat (like when it's on a grill handle).  Has anyone else had trouble with this?

[LightningBoldtz]

I wish I had read this thread before because I am kinda ignorant when it comes to treating wood.

I wondered if Brian rolls his eyes when some of us rookies talk about poisoning his handles with Cherry stain and polyurethane.  HAHA

I was really impressed and please with the finished handle that I got from Brian for my 60's kettle, well worth the extra money.

[cbpeck]

I recently refinished the two original handles on my '88 redhead. I started by closing two small cracks with Gorilla Glue and sanding them down as little as possible, but as much as was necessary to get through the gray. I then applied three coats of Minwax 2 in 1 Pulyurethane with Stain. I used the Pecan color, Satin finish. I felt like I was taking the easy way out, but they turned out really nice. Here are some photos:

http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/weber-kettles-accessories/my-'k'-redhead-restoration/msg39644/#msg39644

They do look great
Have you got any before shots of the handles so we can see what condition they were in before the resto?

Thanks for the compliment. Sorry, but no before shots. I can tell you they were cracked and mostly gray. It took quite a bit of fine, careful sanding to uncover fresh wood. Like any finish, 90% of the final product is determined by the quality of the prep work, and in the case of my handles the prep was gluing & sanding.

[Craig]

Thanks for starting this thread!  It's very timely for me, as Bman and I are collaborating on rehabbing a couple of older gassers with new handles and wood tables.  In fact, I just bought some spar varnish today to do some field-testing (I've never used it before).

I'm a big fan of teak oil for our patio furniture, but noticed that it takes a while to really 'cure', and I've been worried about it getting tacky when it is really close to a source of high heat (like when it's on a grill handle).  Has anyone else had trouble with this?

I agree on letting the teak oil cure. Otherwise it can be tacky against a hot lid.


As for polyurethane as a finish, I haven't had an issue with it so far but I haven't use it on every handle. Maybe ill give spar varnish a whirl next round.

[javahog2002]

MinWax Golden Pecan and 3-4 coats of poly in these original handles from the late 70's and 69'

[mike.stavlund]

Java, those are just gorgeous.  Thanks for the pics.

[Bman]

Isn't tung oil just a 'watered down' version of regular varnish?
I've used boiled linseed oil to get the grain to pop, then coated with shellac then lacquer.  But, not for anything that goes outdoors.  Just interior cabinetry & trim.  Spar is decent, but when it wears out it should be completely sanded off and reapplied.  Probably not a big deal on something small like handles, but if they're stained it might pose a coloring issue. 
I'm probably way over thinking this shit, but (interior) wood finishing was my profession. 

Anyone notice the spar finished handles get soft with the heat?

[LightningBoldtz]

Isn't tung oil just a 'watered down' version of regular varnish?
I've used boiled linseed oil to get the grain to pop, then coated with shellac then lacquer.  But, not for anything that goes outdoors.  Just interior cabinetry & trim.  Spar is decent, but when it wears out it should be completely sanded off and reapplied.  Probably not a big deal on something small like handles, but if they're stained it might pose a coloring issue. 
I'm probably way over thinking this shit, but (interior) wood finishing was my profession. 

Anyone notice the spar finished handles get soft with the heat?

I considered using the marine varnish but the fact that I cover all my grills I thought the interior poly would work just fine.  I suppose I may regret it but so far so good. 

So Bman, seems like you are down on spar, what would you use?

[Bman]

It's not that I'm down on spar, it's just not as 'nice' as the interior finishes I've worked with.  Each time you add a coat, it builds layer on top of layer.  Think printer paper all stacked up one sitting on top of the other.  With finishes like lacquer, each layer burns (melts into) the previous layer.  For refinishing purposes, the burned in finishes is superior to the layered finishes.  When you sand the layered finishes, you have the layers to 'fill in'.   When it wears out, it'll flake/peel and thats where an entire sand/finish should be applied.  Again, way too knit-picky for small handles, but it's what my brain knows.

For the exterior of wooden entry doors, spar finishes is what I've used.  I don't do much of it, don't like the application/results as much as the interior finishes, but it's a different world.  I haven't found anything better, but haven't explored it much either.  I'm also curious if the lid heat has any affect on the finish which would soften it up during use.

To answer your question of what would I use?  Don't know.  Probably some sort of oil/shellac to pop the grain and top coat it with spar to protect it.

[LightningBoldtz]

I guess I am looking at it as, so long as the handles are covered then using interior poly is better than nothing at all.  If I am wrong, well I suppose I would have to buy more handles from Brian......

[Duke]

Isn't tung oil just a 'watered down' version of regular varnish?

I have never heard that, but it's possible. I have just been using tung oil, but it's not the pure 100% stuff. It's Formbys low gloss and I really like it. In the past I used to stain and use marine varnish.

[Bman]

Maybe this is what I read (or something close to this) a number of years back.

Tung oil has become popular as an environmentally friendly wood finish, but it should be noted that many products labelled as "tung oil finishes" are deceptively labelled: polymerized oils, wiping varnishes, and oil/varnish blends have all been known to be sold as tung oil finishes (sometimes containing no tung oil at all), and all the above contain solvents and/or chemical driers. Product packaging will usually clearly state if it is pure tung oil, so there is a good chance you will be buying something else if the sales literature is vague.

Another tid-bit of info (that I just learned) which should be known. 

As the source of tung oil is a nut, people with nut allergies often report adverse reactions to contact with (or even the odour of) tung oil. Reactions can be severe in some cases. While tung oil has been used for many centuries as a finish for kitchen items such as wooden bowls and cutting boards, some individuals must avoid its use.

Here is a GREAT article about oil finishes that we could all benefit from.
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use

[addicted-to-smoke]

Chad, are things like shellac or even polyurethane not mentioned in that link because they're not a finish per se, but a "top coat"?

I readily admit to being attracted to anything that will protect the finish for as long as possible when left outdoors, even at the expense of utmost appearance. Which is a contradiction, I realize.

[Duke]

I looked at my can of Formbys and it say 'ting oil finish'. Then below it calls it a varnish, so you were right. I was in a store recently where I saw pure tung oil. It was at ACE I think. I'm going to get a bottle the next time I am there. Thanks Bman!

[pbe gummi bear]

I have two handles made of maple. Any advice for what I should do with them? I'd like to make the grain pop out and darken them up a bit for my chimneys. Thanks!