Executive Summary:I bought a new Copper OTG and installed a Weber wire lid bale, BBQ Guru PartyQ and a pass through for the probes for the PartyQ and my Maverick thermometer. Next up will be a custom built table for it.
Now you can just scroll down and see the pictures if you’re not interested in the details … or … go get a cold one and book off an hour to read through all the gory details … LOL
The Details:Last year I bought my first Weber Kettle Barbeque, a black One Touch Gold. I tried some low & slow cooks as well as using it in a traditional grilling fashion. I loved using it.
But, there were a number of ‘improvements’ I wanted to make. I didn’t like the way the lid hangs on the rim of the kettle. I much prefer the wire lid bale that you see on the side of the Performer series. I also wanted to install an automatic fan that would maintain a specific temperature. I’ve thought of installing some high temperature felt to help get a better seal with the lid. Finally, I wanted to build my own work table to accompany the grill.
I purchased a lid bale last summer but never got around to installing it.
I did some research on automatic fans. I liked the BBQ Guru PartyQ the best; but, never purchased one … until this week. This was the beginning of the downward slide to Taj Ma-BBQ (no disrespect intended). I think it’s a downward slide ‘cause one thing led to another and I ended up spending way more than I was planning – all without ‘executive support’ (aka spousal knowledge or, obviously, approval … clearly dangerous territory).
I was glad I didn’t buy a PartyQ last year as I like how BBQ Guru has redesigned it. While buying the PartyQ, I also purchased a storage case as it looked perfect to store my Maverick wireless thermometer along with the PartyQ when not in use. I bit the bullet Monday afternoon.
After doing that, I started thinking about what else I might want to do. I re-read the article that was my inspiration for this misadventure – “How I Got At Least $2000 Worth of Grill for $540” by Joe Brown on Gizmodo. I decided to go with the gasket seal but hold off on the Smokenator for now as my wife complains if I put even a couple of wood chips with the charcoal when I grill.
From there I went to the website for a local BBQ store to see if I could get a gasket from them. Whoa … Seriously … They have copper One Touch Gold Kettles in stock? I HAD to have one. (A little background is in order – my Dad was a copper miner.)
As I’m keeping an eye on the tracking for the delivery of the PartyQ, I see it’s going to be delivered on Thursday. On my way home from work I pick up a new kettle, WOOHOO, the gasket and some other stuff to help with the build.
OK, I know, without pictures it didn’t happen so here you go.
You have to stay properly hydrated while working on these taxing projects; but, notice that the UK Office of health advises not to a have more than 3 to 4 units on a regular basis – LOL. Of course, the implication is that you should be having 2 to 3 units daily, right?
Here are my new toys. I purchased the wire Lid Bale (Weber Part # 63058) last summer, as with the Maverick Wireless Thermometer – love that
toy … I mean tool. At the top right you see the storage box. To the left of that is the PartyQ and the adapter to attach it to the kettle.
Here are a couple of shots of the PartyQ, one with one of the Maverick units so that you can get a feeling for its size.
Here’s my new kettle!
And a shot of the kettle before assembly. It looks much more orange in the pictures on the box, and in marketing material I’ve seen, then it does in reality. It looks more brown, or bronze than copper. This was a little disappointing; but, not a showstopper.
Here it is assembled but prior to being pimped. What’s with the ugly grey plastic handles? They’re almost offensive on such an awesome looking kettle.
Brian … ya gotta hook me up with a set of three ‘original’ wood handles. A few days ago I PM’d Troy; If you could PM me, I’d appreciate it.
First mod up … felt to seal the lid. Granted, this mod is likely overkill for the OTG; but, oh well.
I wondered if putting it along the upper or lower rim would be better. I decided on the upper as then I’m less likely to spill any BBQ goop (sauce, spices, … ) on it, and thought it was a better surface to which the felt could be applied. The lid has flat surfaces around the rim as opposed to the rolled one on the bottom.
Here are shots of the lid, a close up of the felt and one that shows the seal when looking up from underneath.
If I were to do this again, I think I would only apply the felt to two planes (just the one that sits on top of the bottom rim and up into the lid), not three like you see in the photos (I would not apply it to the portion of the lid that sits outside of the lower rim).
The diameter of the outer rim of the lid is three eighths of an inch larger then the rim of the bottom. Having applied the felt to take up this gap, the lid is a little more finicky to place on the kettle. In order to help the lid sit on the bottom, I tied the lid down over night. I thought this would help to both apply pressure to the felt as the adhesive cured as well as help the lid to seat on the kettle. I expect that over the time the felt will crush down and the lid will seat more easily; but, for now I can’t simply plop the lid down.
Next up, the lid bale. Oh man … I’m actually going to drill holes in this beautiful BBQ? Why am I shaking so much? LOL
Seriously, the lid bale is a replacement part so it doesn’t come with installation instructions. I wasn’t sure how far down to place the rollers that support the outer edges of the lid when placed in the holder. I decided to try to center the holes about the height of the smaller edge of the roller from the top of the rim (notice how the grey rollers have a larger and smaller edge?). This places the top holes slightly below the center line drawn from the front to the back handle.
This turned out to be a ‘good guess’ as I hadn’t considered in advance whether the lower bolt could interfere with the damper/ash sweeper. Fortunately, as you see in the picture, this placement leaves the lower bolt about an inch above the top of the damper arm.
I was pleased that the outside of the lid doesn’t touch the lower portion of the support; but, disappointed that it does touch the wire portion. Hhhmmm … I’m afraid that over time this will scratch the lid. I think I might try to attach something to the wire to prevent this from happening.
What’s the experience been for those of you with performers? Does your lid show scratches where it rests on the wire of the support?
OK, now it was time for the PartyQ. This was scary as I needed to bore such a large hole. Where do I place it? The instructions from BBQ Guru are to place it one inch below the fire grate at a 9:00 o’clock location when the front handle is at 6:00 o’clock. With the lid holder, I didn’t think that was a practical position. Besides, the internal portion of the adapter is larger than an inch while the gap between the top of the damper/ash sweeper is less than an inch below the fire grate. Wait a sec. That doesn’t work. Now the PartyQ will be in the way preventing a full range of motion for the ash sweeper. GGGRRRRRRR
By this point it was 2:00 am and I needed to get up for work on Friday morning. So I went to bed, which was probably a good idea as I clearly wasn’t thinking.
Having rested, when I returned to it I realized that the ash sweeper doesn’t actually pass over all of the bottom of the kettle. I closed the bottom damper and put a strip of tape down the edge of the damper. I then opened the damper fully and put a second strip of tape down. Perfect! When I examined the resulting triangle there was enough room to place the adapter as directed, an inch below the fire grate! Why couldn’t I think of doing that at 2:00 am yesterday? Doh!!
As you can see in the photos, I taped off completely where I was going to drill, drew lines for the bottom of the fire grate and an inch below, and outline of the internal portion of the adapter. I also taped the outer side of the kettle and tested with the dampers again before drilling.
Here are a couple of images after the adapter has been installed.
And a couple of images with the PartyQ installed on the adapter.
Almost done … now I needed to consider what I was going to do with the three probes (one for the PartyQ & two for the Maverick thermometer) that need to go into the BBQ. Last year I just draped them over the edge into the kettle. Some suggest putting them through either of the upper or lower dampers. Those solutions just don’t seem consistent with the ‘pimping’ I was doing. Having done some more research on this, someone suggested making a pass-thru using components that are used to make light fixtures. Brilliant idea!
At Home Depot I found a kit that has the hollow threaded tube, a number of different washers, and two nuts. Looking around a bit more, I also found a couple of solid caps that will screw on the end of the threaded rod and seal the hole – perfect! The universe was unfolding favourably for this project.
Now, where do I place my new pass through? I wanted it at the back so it would be out of sight; but, the wire for the Maverick’s kettle temperature probe was not long enough to accommodate that placement. In hindsight, since the Maverick has two controllers (one attached to the probes and the wireless remote one used to program it which you keep with you), I could have put the pass through at the back of the BBQ and leave the Maverick at the back; but, where’s the fun in that. Don’t I want to ‘show off’ my
toys tools, not hide them? I decided to center it between the front handle supports.
And a couple of shots with the Maverick attached and probes passing into the kettle.
If you are doing this, you want to make a number of considerations that I failed to think about but lucked out on. You need to consider whether your probes will fit through the cylinder individually and together (i.e. can you get each one through on its own and once you have two in do you still have enough clearance for the third to pass through), as well as hole placement vis-à-vis both the handle and the inner grate.
The meat probe is longer and has a 90 degree bend which may present a problem depending on the diameter and length of your cylinder. I did test fit all three probes through the cylinder before installation and felt I was in business; but, I failed to consider the angle of the hole vis-à-vis the handle. Once I had drilled the hole and installed the cylinder I tried the probes and the meat one wouldn’t fit. SUGAR! I took the handle off and tried again. It worked, so I put all the probes through, put the handle back on and took the pictures.
After taking the pictures I tried removing the probes with the handle in place. The straight ones came out no problem. I then tried the meat one just for the heck of it; but, I wasn’t that hopeful. Lo and behold, I was able to slide it out. I realized that depending on how I twist and angle the probe, I can get it through the pass through without removing the handle. WooHoo!
In hindsight, one aspect that will impact this is how far the end of the cylinder sticks out of the kettle. In my case I lucked out again with it protruding a minimum amount because I attached the cap, then the outer nut followed by the washer before placing the cylinder in the hole. I also realized that I lucked out with the portion sticking into the kettle that it doesn’t interfere too much with the food grate. It’s short enough and high enough that I can place the grate under it when putting the grate in the kettle. Pure happenstance, sadly not planned; wish I had thought of it. If you are going to do this, you could also use a shorter piece of threaded cylinder. This would then interfere less inside the kettle and improve the angles for getting a meat probe through.
Unfortunately, my Weber cover no longer fits nicely with the lid bale attached. To fix this I’m going to take it to a sewing place to have a zipper inserted to make it bigger as well as easier to get on & off.
Finally, as mentioned at the beginning of the post, I’m going to build a custom work table for my new BBQ; but, that will need to be another posting.
Drilling holes in a Weber Kettle:I did some research about this before proceeding. I bought new high speed steel drill bits, used a wired, not wireless, drill (I seem to remember reading somewhere that wired drills have higher rotation speeds), put multiple layers of masking tape on both sides of the kettle and took my time. I also first drilled a smaller pilot hole with a 9/64” bit before boring it larger with a 1/4". For the larger holes (PartyQ and probe pass-through), I used a uni-bit.
Unfortunately, all of my holes do show some chipping of the enamel around the edges. It’s not visible when everything is assembled, and it doesn’t appear to have damaged the finish such that it will get worse (i.e. I don’t see any cracks); but, it is disappointing that the holes don’t have clean edges. I filed them a little to clean up the sharp edges caused by the uni-bit then applied a high temperature BBQ paint to seal up the metal before re-assembling everything. I’ve also purchased some high temperature putty to seal around the interior holes; but, in hindsight I don’t think I’ll use it. I think it will be un-necessary and make removal or replacement of parts in the future a PITA.
I hope you enjoyed sharing in my (mis)adventure!!
Topic: Pimp My 'Cue (Read 7219 times)
