RANCH KETTLE ROTISSERIE

[Hogsy]

Mikey thanks for the tips
Once the ring has a coating of pig/lamb/beef/chicken fat on it which should be next weekend, will rust still be an issue? Also the Kettle and ring will always be under cover and we are getting a cover made up for it so I was thinking rust wouldn't be an issue

Can you post some measurements on the baskets?

The baskets are about 28 inches long and 9 inches wide, they were made to suit the contour of the bowl. The grate can also be lifted in and out of the kettle with the ring still in place

[AZ_MIKEY]

"Mikey thanks for the tips
Once the ring has a coating of pig/lamb/beef/chicken fat on it which should be next weekend, will rust still be an issue? Also the Kettle and ring will always be under cover and we are getting a cover made up for it so I was thinking rust wouldn't be an issue"

Hogsy, the problem with burn through/sugaring of a weld isn't just limited to rust it is also a place for bacteria to growand stay harbored. Not such a big deal on a piece that gets hot frequently but something that when it cools down and stays at temps below a tempature that can kill said bacteria it can become a problem. As far as the rust concern the best thing is to keep an eye on it and pretty much treat areas where it can happen I.e. the burn through areas like you would on an area of any kettle that is open to the elements and no longer has porcelain covering it. Also just watch the stainless around that area that if rust appears you take care of it immediately as it will move and impregnate the rest of the stainless. My minimum suggestion is go to a fan shop or metal working/ supply store and get some of the acid paste to put o. The burn through spots and treat it from time to time. But I will leave it at keep an eye on those spots and above all enjoy that frwaking bad ass set up! And congrats on having the cajones to tackle such a project.

[AZ_MIKEY]

MIKEY, I was at a trade show last week and I saw a product that cleaned up the weld discoloration. The rep also mentioned that it recoated that portion so that it doesnt rust. Is there validity to this or was it sales bs?

Gummi, was this product solely for stainless steel welds or more of and all around product for all metals or even something that might have been marketed for tig produced welds or aluminium and stainless. As far as I know there really isn't a fix that lasts that takes care of burn through as far as taking care of the color on stainless welds as long as there is no burn through you can buff them out in many ways. One while they are still hot scrub them with a stainless wire brush. 2 let them cool and grind/ blend them in with a zircon type disc( usually a flap style) or use a red med croase scotchbrite style buffing wheel or hand pad. 3 let them cool use acid paste and then wash of acid paste. All ways produce different levels and qualities than the other in regards to lusters and shines and overall appearances. If you want to see the weld bead with the chervons going tthe route of the weld is still hot with a wire brush produces a very beautiful look when the weld is between that silver to gold color as it will clean the weld to exactly the same color as and shine as the metal being bonded together. Also what type of filler rod used plays some part in it. So many variables.

[pbe gummi bear]

MIKEY, I was at a trade show last week and I saw a product that cleaned up the weld discoloration. The rep also mentioned that it recoated that portion so that it doesnt rust. Is there validity to this or was it sales bs?

Gummi, was this product solely for stainless steel welds or more of and all around product for all metals or even something that might have been marketed for tig produced welds or aluminium and stainless. As far as I know there really isn't a fix that lasts that takes care of burn through as far as taking care of the color on stainless welds as long as there is no burn through you can buff them out in many ways. One while they are still hot scrub them with a stainless wire brush. 2 let them cool and grind/ blend them in with a zircon type disc( usually a flap style) or use a red med croase scotchbrite style buffing wheel or hand pad. 3 let them cool use acid paste and then wash of acid paste. All ways produce different levels and qualities than the other in regards to lusters and shines and overall appearances. If you want to see the weld bead with the chervons going tthe route of the weld is still hot with a wire brush produces a very beautiful look when the weld is between that silver to gold color as it will clean the weld to exactly the same color as and shine as the metal being bonded together. Also what type of filler rod used plays some part in it. So many variables.

I have no idea, but thanks for the info. This liquid was some of the stuff I saw, but there were other vendors too. http://cyndan.com.au/en/specialised-cleaners/68-pickle-it-liquid-all-metals-welding-stain-remover.html

[Golly]

Thanks everyone for the positive replies, it's these reactions that keep the motivation up when trying to complete projects
As far as the brace goes , thanks for the suggestions and I'll try and explain a little better what happens when the motor is attached with out the brace.
When attached and the lid is off it doesn't lift the opposite side where the shaft runs through the ring
The top of the ring tends to roll out and the bottom push in at 2 points, say if the motor end of the ring is north and the other end of the shaft is south the ring has pull on it at east & west
Now it's not all that critical, it won't pop out of position and really the only way you can notice it is the motor doesn't look level
I can push down on the shaft end as hard as I want and it won't make any difference
And once the lid is on the sides of the ring pull in and the motor sits back up level
I think the combination of cutting slots for the shaft and having 8lbs hanging a foot off the side of the ring is the issue. The brace was a nice easy fix. Once the motor is supported problem solved plus it's just a nut and bolt attaching it that can easily removed but I guess it does lose a bit of sleekness with the brace
As far as the motor Hank, it's rated to turn 40kg or 90lbs and I don't think your going to get much more meat than that inside the ranch

Well said hogsy
Best solution possible to keep everything removable and mobile
Thanks for the suggestions but they wouldn't be appropriate

[kendoll]

Holy shit guys, that looks amazing. You guys must be stoked with it. I know you have put a lot of thought, time, and money in to this thing so it is great to see it ready to roll.

I hope the fire ban lifts in time for you guys to put it through its paces. I know the people you will be cooking for will appreciate it!

Can't wait to see the pics of it in action. Hopefully get to sample some of the end product myself in the not too distant future.

Ken

[Golly]

Holy shit guys, that looks amazing. You guys must be stoked with it. I know you have put a lot of thought, time, and money in to this thing so it is great to see it ready to roll.

I hope the fire ban lifts in time for you guys to put it through its paces. I know the people you will be cooking for will appreciate it!

Can't wait to see the pics of it in action. Hopefully get to sample some of the end product myself in the not too distant future.

Ken

yes ken majorly stoked

upon the final fitment and powering up there was a high five thrown about

[Duke]

yes ken majorly stoked

upon the final fitment and powering up there was a high five thrown about

I believe the correct term is Chuffed. I know I am.

[G]

That thing is cool...congrats on an awesome build.  Cant wait for some pics, or better yet, a video of your first "spin". 

[1buckie]

 OK.........................








..........PIG that thing UP !!!!!!!

[Hottuna]

Looking awesome!! i  used the same roller bearing shaft support when i had my spit built up.
Maybe i missed it but are you guys going to use a counterweight on the shaft when roasting full animals? As you know they arent the most balanced cut. Saves the motor in the longrun.[img]

[Hogsy]

Wasn't going to use a counterweight but would like to see some pics of yours to get an idea of it
I don't use the counterweight on my kettle roti so don't see the point of using it on the RK  but that doesn't mean its not a good idea

[salad]

Not sure how or why I'm just finding this thread but WOW that's a nice build.  I want to watch something spinning on that thing!

[louievandeoorst]

counterweight for something so big  is just about must,
well my two cents..
mates ..good luck..

[Hottuna]

Wasn't going to use a counterweight but would like to see some pics of yours to get an idea of it
I don't use the counterweight on my kettle roti so don't see the point of using it on the RK  but that doesn't mean its not a good idea

Our spit motor supplier recommends it
The counter weights slide onto the shaft and lock in position via a grub screw. A little weight goes a long way. Ever noticed the motor stuggles on certain angles of the spin? Full beasts are always heavier on the head, and shoulder side the motor tends to accelerate on the down stroke then struggle turning the weight uphill and so on - this is what is not good for life of the motor.
 They weights are easy to knock up or i think we have a few to suit 25mm round shaft at work.  I will post a pic and exact weight tomorrow