Post your cleaning methods

[addicted-to-smoke]

@ 1buckie, my interpretation is that the polish (in the small tub) effectively acts as a cleaner, too, when applied with 0000 and then wiped or rinsed off.

Mothers has an aluminum cleaner in a spray (similar to the Eagle 1 branded "mag wheel" stuff pictured above) but it may not be as effective.

Either that, or I'm confused as well.

[1buckie]

Thanks for the input, folks.....

"Mothers has an aluminum cleaner in a spray (similar to the Eagle 1 branded "mag wheel" stuff pictured above) but it may not be as effective."

Pretty sure this is what I got going.......

Thanks Greg & T L !!!!
I think what I have is a Mother's product that's more of a polish than a cleaner.....it will clean some, but I'm going to look into this furthur.....

If it helps Buckie, mine is polish also. It is my last step. Legs, SOS pad and a degreaser, second is the legs must be lightly wet and hit it the mag aluminum cleaner(30 to 40 seconds, it will etch the aluminum), light scrub with SOS pad, rinse, dry, then the Mothers Polish.

I need to explore the "elbow grease" aspect of this endeavor also........

[Craig]

That '80 ash pan gets me every time! Looks like a brand new old stock one in the "after" picture. Meaning it's that AWESOME of a cleanup!    Outstanding work!

I need to try the vinegar method on my triangles. there IMO the hardest parts to clean.

[dazzo]

Yeah, I think the triangles are hard because there are lots of "surfaces" to take care of.

Steel wool / SOS along the lines, small wire brush at the joints. Looks pretty good. Then you turn it over, damn! There's another side! Same process again.

Both of mine came out nice. Don't have any experience with pitting of a really bad one though. Even Old Grey's cleaned up real nice.

[Tim in PA]

Don't laugh at this question, but has anyone ever waxed the outside of the grill?

[addicted-to-smoke]

Tim, I'm sure someone has done it. But I don't think they should have to unless they've scarred or marred the finish with a heavy-handed cleaning regimen.

The paint process is setup such that the finish is glossy, without Weber adding gloss or polish on top of paint.

The "(baked-on) porcelain enamel" they cite in advertising is the Americanized term for Vitreous enamel. Etymology: Latin vitreus ("glassy, transparent"), from vitrum ("glass").

What I'm trying to say is that the process of applying paint in this way at the factory also makes it a shiny/glossy finish.

[addicted-to-smoke]

some tools:

Tonight I picked up a narrow, flexible Warner PROgrip putty knife. There are 3 ranges Warner makes, red handle=stiff, blue handle=flexible, yellow handle=even more flexible. I went with blue, 1 1/2" / 3.8cm. Warner's numbers: Item #: 350010 |  Model #: 3490127C

I played with a few others, cheaper, at Lowe's but liked this one the best overall. Lowe's link: http://www.lowes.com/pd_350010-995-3490127C_0__?Ntt=350010&UserSearch=350010&productId=3364392&rpp=32

Tonight I also picked up a push-type razor blade. These are called "glass scrapers" and the nicer ones are unsurprisingly also found in the paint section. The tools section will probably have a cheapie. The one I picked up is a Finish Factor item # 157950, model 34103 but this Lowe's link shows it under the Blue Hawk brand: http://www.lowes.com/pd_157950-995-34103_0__?Ntt=157950&UserSearch=157950&productId=3167657&rpp=32

Both are from Warner Tool and made in USA as is the putty knife above. I have no affiliation with Warner Tool nor Lowe's. Hell, I don't even work anywhere! But I will spend a few bucks more for what I like and if it's made in the USA I like that, too. Just like the Webers I own.

[addicted-to-smoke]

some chemicals:

1)
I picked up some CLR the other day since a few people here recommended it for cleaning aluminum/rust and general schmutz from metal. But wait --- WHICH CLR?

From Jelmar: http://www.jelmar.com/CLRproducts.htm

OK, but other people also make "CLR"? Sorta, kinda.

Poor Jelmar. They named their signature product after the things it takes care of, calcium, lime and rust.

That's dandy until you walk into the store and next to the $20 or $30 jug of Jelmar CLR you see one from Zep also called CLR and it's less than half the price!

Oops. What's going on here? Is Jelmar's product a ripoff? That depends. Zep's version has hydrochloric acid! You really wanna work with that a lot? It helps to read the labels carefully ...

2)
Next up we have Krud Kutter. I wanted a degreaser that wasn't oven cleaner. KK is non-toxic and biodegradable. The other degreasers I saw, even some "with citrus" in them, were not and had warnings of shield your eyes, wash after skin contact etc. Jeebus! KK costs a little more and it's based in the state I live; I'll give it a go.

3)
Cameo aluminum & stainless steel cleaner, http://www.amazon.com/Cameo-Stain-Steel-Clean/dp/B001QR23I8

Bought on a lark at the grocery story for a lot less than what Amazon charges. In fact, per oz. it was a lot cheaper that whatever other stainless/aluminum cleaners at the grocery store. It's a powder you make into a paste and I don't know, might be too rough on my stainless or aluminum grill parts. We'll see.

[glrasmussen]

Triangles are the pest... I have found that a pumice stick works. I use it after SOS pad. It is a last resort. But still need something for the tight areas...

Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2

[HankB]

Don't laugh at this question, but has anyone ever waxed the outside of the grill?

I sprayed the outside of my '74 faded gray kettle with Pam. Actually I did the inside as well. The porcelain is pitted and there is significant rust staining. My intent was to provide some protection from further rusting. I thought the oil should harden from the heat like it does when seasoning cast iron. The Pam really darkened the color. It's not jet black like when new, but a lot darker than it was. However I've cooked on it a couple times since and the spots where charcoal was close to the bowl have started to lighten.

On other grills I just give them a shot in the rusty spots.

[Harbormaster]

Next up we have Krud Kutter.

I've used this. Very similar to Greased Lightning.

Also, I wanted to note that the ScotchBrite pads I use (green) MAY scratch the porcelain of a Weber, so be careful.

[mike.stavlund]

Tim, I think wax on the exterior of a grill would just melt off when it was cooking.  Though the way in which car wax removes oxidation would be useful. 

The tip I've used with some success is Turtle Wax buffing compound applied with 0000 steel wool, and then buffed off with a rag/towel.  It does a decent job of removing oxidation on most of the kettles I've worked on. 

[addicted-to-smoke]

Next up we have Krud Kutter.

I've used this. Very similar to Greased Lightning. ...

I'll have to look again. There was a Greased Lightning product I compared it to at the store but it did advertise non-toxcity or whatever that KK did.

[Harbormaster]

I'll have to look again. There was a Greased Lightning product I compared it to at the store but it did advertise non-toxcity or whatever that KK did.

I don't recall seeing it on the label, but that doesn't bother me.

I will tell you that I used the Krud Kutter to clean up my Father's Day present, and it seemed to work a hell of a lot better than Greased Lightning. Don't know if it was the cleaner, or just very, very old gunk in the grill.

And I'm not sure how non-tox tox tox tox tox tox tox toxic it is.

[G]

+1 for Krud Kutter.