How to remove a stubborn One Touch.. The easy way!

[Heyjude]

OK, so we all know that the old One Touch Assemblies (7409) can be stubborn to remove.
Sometimes it’s a hopeless cause, but every once in a while, I come across one that just might still be usable. But I want to get it off to clean it. Now of course, there are various methods that include some sort of penetrating lube and patience. I don’t have much patience these days, and quite frankly, the lube is not always guaranteed to work.
So, I am going to show you a method that I have had some success with and works pretty quick.
I had all the tools, so why not?





Tools of the trade.  Note the bonus, the cap from the propane tank fits on the leg as a cap!



Took my grinder and cleaned up some of the rust around the nut and screw.. I bought a cheap grinder from Harbor Freight for $10 and I use some 4” wire wheels in it. I use that mostly for cleaning grates, but that’s another show.  Sprayed a bit of lube around the threads and let it sit while I fiddled with the torch.



So the trick is to heat up the nut a bit with the torch. I’m not trying to melt the thing, just hot enough to break it loose.  After I heat it, I let it cool a bit and then sprayed it with some more lube. I used a pair of vise grips to turn the screw. It was still a bit warm, remember, no patience!
Here’s an action shot!


I slowly turned the screw and what do you know, it worked!


Once the screw was out, it was just a matter of spraying more lube down the hole and then let it sit a minute. I used the vice grips to slowly twist the handle loose.



So, it may not be the only way, but it worked for me. Next I will show you how I clean up the One Touch with the grinder and wire brush.  And remember, I'm not an expert, I don't always follow the rules of Safety, but you should! I have the burns, cuts and bruises to show for it. Damn, maybe I better start listening to my own advice..
AJ

[MrHoss]

Thanks for the how to.  I will tackle mine in a similar fashion.

[addicted-to-smoke]

Wow! Even the legs popped loose from that procedure!

Seriously though, this is a worthwhile endeavor now that 7409 parts are scarce.

I'd also be interested to know if there's something that could take kettle heat that would coat the "under" parts after they go back on ... to prevent rust. Hi-temp engine paint?

[Heyjude]

I think if you use some anti seize on the threads and the part of the handle that goes into the nut, that would minimize any problems. Also, if you do some preventative maintenance before winter, it would certainly help. I'm in California, so we don't have as many issues.. If You live in the severe climates, a shed or garage would help as well. 

[DirectDrive]

Great tutorial !

[blackdog043]

You could always do preventive maintenance and take the screw and handle apart once a year and clean it up.

[pbe gummi bear]

Thanks for outlining this process, AJ! Everyone should try the torch and some penetrant option if the rest of the the OT is salvageable but stuck. I've seen some grills out there though where the screw is so rusted that a torch won't do anything to free it loose.

[Heyjude]

Thanks for outlining this process, AJ! Everyone should try the torch and some penetrant option if the rest of the the OT is salvageable but stuck. I've seen some grills out there though where the screw is so rusted that a torch won't do anything to free it loose.

Agreed, and if the blades are too far gone, I just cut it off. In this case, the rust wasn't too bad and I wanted to salvage the parts.
The heat trick will work on other nuts and bolts. Just be carefull if its near a finish that you don't want to ruin!
 

[pbe gummi bear]

Thanks for outlining this process, AJ! Everyone should try the torch and some penetrant option if the rest of the the OT is salvageable but stuck. I've seen some grills out there though where the screw is so rusted that a torch won't do anything to free it loose.

Agreed, and if the blades are too far gone, I just cut it off. In this case, the rust wasn't too bad and I wanted to salvage the parts.
The heat trick will work on other nuts and bolts. Just be carefull if its near a finish that you don't want to ruin!
 

Haha, I melted an aluminum vent once when I got a little too torch aggressive.

[Craig]

Thanks for the how to AJ!  This will come in handy! 

[HankB]

Nice work! You might find that something like PB-Blaster works better as a penetrant than WD-40.

... spraying more lube down the hole and then let it sit a minute.

More time can make a difference too. I've had stuff (on decades old garden tractors) that was not movable come free easily after a couple weeks of periodic application of PB-Blaster.

[Heyjude]

Nice work! You might find that something like PB-Blaster works better as a penetrant than WD-40.

... spraying more lube down the hole and then let it sit a minute.

More time can make a difference too. I've had stuff (on decades old garden tractors) that was not movable come free easily after a couple weeks of periodic application of PB-Blaster.

Yeah, agreed, WD-40 was handy.  (Side note, I can't believe how much PB Blaster and WD have gone up in price.) Time is not always on our side, I have waited and sprayed and awaited some more.. And that works.. I have another product that works well, but its a commercial product and I can't find it too readily. I do want to try a product called Kroil Penetrating Oil.. Seems like a good product..
This was just one way that was fast easy and worked! 

[Duke]

Thanks, I'll have to give that method a go sometime.

[Kirk Fortin]

I have had to kind of do that too, but some pounding with a hammer than some more pounding to get it back to normal so i could put the new set in too.  Your idea WAY better i can see already

[salad]

I have a chisel with a long tapered round point and once the screw is out, I put the tip on the end of the sweep bar and a couple of knocks later, it's out.  Sounds like a gong, though.