Is this 1979 Kettle Salvageable?

[GPart]

I was looking over my 1979 22.5" "A" code MBH today and found that some of the leg sockets are rusted and I can see daylight through one of them. At first I thought I might be able to wrap some tinfoil around the exterior portion of the leg socket(s) but I'm extremely concerned as this might be a significant fire hazard. Is this salvageable or should I look at the Original Kettle Premium and keep my Dad's original kettle but keep it out of commission?

[Cellar2ful]

You can repair the leg sockets by drilling through the leg socket tabs and use oversized stainless steel washers, bolts and nuts.  The washers seal the holes in the bowl.  Use #0000 steel wool to remove as much of the rust prior to installing the washers, nuts and bolts. Because it's your Dad's original kettle and has sentimental value, I would definitely spend the time and effort repairing it. 

Here's a couple of photos of a blue 18" MBH I repaired using this repair method.

[michaelmilitello]

Ditto!   One addition.  Buy new drill bits.  Go slow.  Helps a lot. 


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[GPart]

Hi Cellar2ful and Michaelmilitello,

Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge as well as the pics of your repair!

Saving this grill will mean a lot due to its sentimental value to me. Heck, I even have a pic of me using that grill in 1985!

I’m a little bit of a DIY guy, so I should be able to do this repair and will give this a patient try. It’s definitely worth the time and effort.

Yesterday evening, however, I did purchase a new 22” Original Kettle Premium in Green. If my project is successful, perhaps I’ll use my Dad’s Kettle in nice weather and the new Premium when the weather isn’t so great.

If I have any questions, I’ll post here as well as pics of the (hopefully) successful repair. Any additional advice / guidance will be greatly appreciated.

[AZ2FL]

I've reattached leg sockets before, it's a very simple process.

My suggestion is to use either a 6-32 or 8-32 SS button head socket cap screw. A 1/4-20 is to large imo.

Clearance drill for 6-32 5/32" (.156)
Clearance drill for 8-32 3/16" (.1875)

Bowl and lid vents 1/4-20 screw

[AZ2FL]

When drilling the clearance hole, start drill bit inside the dimple if possible.

[GPart]

I've reattached leg sockets before, it's a very simple process.

My suggestion is to use either a 6-32 or 8-32 SS button head socket cap screw. A 1/4-20 is to large imo.

Clearance drill for 6-32 5/32" (.156)
Clearance drill for 8-32 3/16" (.1875)

Bowl and lid vents 1/4-20 screw

Awesome! Thanks - also for the pics. GREAT help! My bowl and lid vents are O.K., only the leg sockets are rust-eaten. Can you guys tell me specifically what size washers and bolts are recommended for this fix? I’m assuming the oversized washers have small holes rather than large ones?

[AZ2FL]

I've reattached leg sockets before, it's a very simple process.

My suggestion is to use either a 6-32 or 8-32 SS button head socket cap screw. A 1/4-20 is to large imo.

Clearance drill for 6-32 5/32" (.156)
Clearance drill for 8-32 3/16" (.1875)

Bowl and lid vents 1/4-20 screw

Awesome! Thanks - also for the pics. GREAT help! My bowl and lid vents are O.K., only the leg sockets are rust-eaten. Can you guys tell me specifically what size washers and bolts are recommended for this fix? I’m assuming the oversized washers have small holes rather than large ones?

YW

You'll need to purchase SS fender washers. Diameter will be about 1" to 1-1/4".

If you can't source fender washers with a small hole, you can use a standard SS washer stacked on the fender washer.

As Michael stated in a previous post run the drill at a lower RPM. I'd suggest 400 to 600 RPM, which is about third power on most cordless drills.

Also 135 degree drill is better than 118 degree point.

Edit:
6-32 x 1/2" or 6-32 x 3/4"
8-32 x 1/2" or 8-32 x 3/4"


 

[GPart]

Thanks so much!

I’m taking all of this info with me to my local Mom ‘n Pop hardware store. They’ve got so many drawers full of different types and sizes of nuts, bolts and washers, I’m confident we’ll find the correct parts.

If I have questions, I will definitely ask you guys for clarification.

[watkinsb87]

Look forward to the end result! I’m always amazed at the ingenuity shown around here.


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[1spacemanspiff]

Excellent advice and you're dad's kettle is definitely worth the effort.

[GPart]

Definitely DAZZLED, never baffled!

Until a few years ago when I joined TVWBB, I never realized this level of enthusiasm or even fanaticism existed in the ordinary man’s world of backyard “hobby” grilling. It’s absolutely phenomenal! I’ve certainly developed a real keen interest into wanting to be a better grill cook.

BTW, is there a “like” button somewhere to show appreciation for someone’s post / contribution?

[502BBQ]

Definitely DAZZLED, never baffled!

Until a few years ago when I joined TVWBB, I never realized this level of enthusiasm or even fanaticism existed in the ordinary man’s world of backyard “hobby” grilling. It’s absolutely phenomenal! I’ve certainly developed a real keen interest into wanting to be a better grill cook.

BTW, is there a “like” button somewhere to show appreciation for someone’s post / contribution?

I know in the mobile app there is a 'thanks' button. I always click that and hope it translates into a like. Or, it could be nothing...

[GPart]

Good news, I suppose. I was able to get the rusted leg sockets welded for $60 and procured some Stove Bright high temp paint for the exterior welds. Will try to post a couple of pics this week. In the meantime, this weekend I found these pics of me cooking on my Dad’s Weber back in 1985 (when he was still alive). This grill really does mean a lot to me.

[bamakettles]

That’s great!  Cool to have pictures of you grilling on it almost 40 years ago.  Congrats on a successful repair.


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