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How to finish this table

Started by putoluto, May 28, 2018, 01:12:24 PM

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putoluto

So, this is my dad's old kettle surround table. My mom (who remembers everything wrong anyhow, bless her heart) thinks she bought this years ago at an OSH - Orchard Supply Hardware, a Sears owned store.  It was thickly pained in that red paint that tries to poorly pass itself off as some type of redwood stain.

Anyhow, I cleaned her up (even where he scorched the table a bit with a too-hot kettle) and sanded off the red paint. To my shock, I do not think this is cheap yellow pine underneath that paint. It might be an oak or a cedar. Are there any woodsy folks who have an idea what kind of wood this is?

I made a bunch of palm-sander passes (about 3-4 hours worth) with 60, 80, 100, 120, 150, and finally 220 grit sandpaper.

I was going to stain it (maybe a colonial maple?) and then polyurethane it, using #0000 steel wool in between the 2-3 coats.  My cousin saw it the other day and suggested I us linseed oil, maybe a coat a day for a few weeks until the wood is thoroughly saturated all the way through.

Any ideas, opinions, suggestions? I would like a weather-resistant and a smooth, protected surface that allows the beauty of the wood to show.

PS - I hope these photos post correctly!

https://imgur.com/a/NqFrc21

putoluto

Anyone? 45 views and no input?

eLLWOODgGLEN

Something about an oil finish just brings the warmth out in wood. Whether it's linseed oil, teal oil or gel varnish. Just ensure you use something that isn't know to be flammable even after drying.


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mtneer

I made a black walnut night stand for my wife.  I used boiled linseed oil and we love what it does to the wood.  I would take your cousins suggestion in a heartbeat.  I've painted wood and have painted upper cabinets installed in our kitchen but being able to see the wood and it's grain structure makes for a much more beautiful finish.  And as eLLWOODgGLEN stated brings out the warmth.  My vote is for an oil finish with a stain being as far as I would go if you just need to get a different tint than what is in the wood...don't try using they "stain" with the polyurethane added for an all in one system, you should just paint it if you use that stuff.

Good luck with the rest of the restore work it is some pretty wood.

putoluto

Thanks, I appreciate the input. It'll be a few weeks until she's done, I'm going out of town and have some other honey-do's to do. I'll get pics up when it's done!

TD15

Linseed is the way to go.  It's also very easy just add a fresh coat occasionally to keep it looking nice.


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lksdrinker

Quote from: putoluto on May 28, 2018, 01:12:24 PM
an idea what kind of wood this is?



I'd guess its a redwood.  Looks like it stood up well through the years and the sawdust on your palm sander looks like redwood dust to me (or maybe a "red cedar").  I think its a good guess that anything built 20+ years ago that was intended for outdoor use would be cedar or redwood.  Any noticeable scent to the wood or the sawdust while you're working?
Its amazing how quickly one weber kettle turns into more than a dozen!  Always open to grabbing something interesting so let me know what you've got!

AnyThingGrilled

Just judging from the color I think it may be cedar. Redwood is usually very pink when sanded or cut once you get past the paint or weathered wood. Regardless they are great for exterior woods. I would go for an exterior polyurethane for water durability available at smaller paint stores(they have better knowledge and products than the big box stores). I used Exterior poly on redwood Adirondack chairs made from reclaimed redwood and the finish has lasted for years In between coats. I love that table! Maybe my next free weekend project! Thanks for the post.


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putoluto

Wow! Either redwood or cedar would be a huge plus since it was masked by red paint from when it was new. I really suspected it would be pine or some other cheap wood, I was surprised to see its coloring. There was / is no noticeable aroma.  I believe it was bought from the OSH in Redding, near Lake Shasta. That's Nor Cal and at the top of the great San Joaquin Valley (the valley stretching 500 miles from Bakersfield to Redding that produces most, or much, of the country's asparagus, cotton, almonds, rice, walnuts, pistachios, table grapes, tomatoes, garlic, etc.  Lake Shasta is not far from the land of redwoods, so if these were sourced locally for sale at limited (not nationally) OSH stores, then redwood would not be out of the question. I'm thinking of taking a table leg over to the local lumber store to see what they think it is.

Now you guys have me second guessing myself. I was all convinced to go linseed oil...

putoluto

I took a few samples down to the local lumber experts (Ganahl's, if any of you are in OC). The consensus is the wood is redwood. 25 years ago the stuff was so cheap, people would cover it with paint no problem. Serious lack of appreciation for this beautiful hardwood.

Anyhow, their paint, stain, sealer expert suggested a coat of Penofin Verde in Natural. Brush it on, and in25 min wipe off the excess. Apply one coat approx. 1x/year (if kept outdoors). It will be soaked into the wood in 24 hours. It is a Brazilian rose oil that has no petroleum distillates and is non-toxic, completely safe around food.

He threw a sample coat on one of the pieces. I'll snap a pic of it and upload later tonight to share. I ordered a quart (at $60/gallon, he thought a quart would be plenty. The quart supply will last many years if the extra is poured into smaller containers (pint and half-pint) so it completely fills them to avoid contaminants from entering.

The quart ought to arrive in a week or two. When I get the finished project complete, I'll post pics of that also.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions, advice, and input!

mtneer

Excellent, glad you had access to a lumber expert.  I can't wait to see the finished product.

As an aside, some of you may know or maybe not but linseed oil is essentially flaxseed oil but has been processed and is not safe for human consumption (typically due to chemicals added for use in construction applications.)

lksdrinker

Quote from: putoluto on May 31, 2018, 08:32:55 AM
I took a few samples down to the local lumber experts (Ganahl's, if any of you are in OC). The consensus is the wood is redwood. 25 years ago the stuff was so cheap, people would cover it with paint no problem. Serious lack of appreciation for this beautiful hardwood.

Anyhow, their paint, stain, sealer expert suggested a coat of Penofin Verde in Natural. Brush it on, and in25 min wipe off the excess. Apply one coat approx. 1x/year (if kept outdoors). It will be soaked into the wood in 24 hours. It is a Brazilian rose oil that has no petroleum distillates and is non-toxic, completely safe around food.

He threw a sample coat on one of the pieces. I'll snap a pic of it and upload later tonight to share. I ordered a quart (at $60/gallon, he thought a quart would be plenty. The quart supply will last many years if the extra is poured into smaller containers (pint and half-pint) so it completely fills them to avoid contaminants from entering.

The quart ought to arrive in a week or two. When I get the finished project complete, I'll post pics of that also.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions, advice, and input!

Glad you were able to get a solid answer.  Cant wait to see the finished product!
Its amazing how quickly one weber kettle turns into more than a dozen!  Always open to grabbing something interesting so let me know what you've got!

putoluto

Just as an update, it's coming along pretty well.  I'm going to flip the pieces, steel wool and tack cloth the top, then put a coat on the tops of the pieces. Then, 24 hours to dry and re-assemle, this time with stainless steel hardware.








AnyThingGrilled

That is going to be beautiful when finished, keep us updated!


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mtneer

Looks great, excited to see the finished product.

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