What’s the best way to salvage these handles

Started by captjoe06, March 11, 2020, 11:19:01 AM

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captjoe06

They weren't cheap and they haven't been on the grill long but hop they can be brought back to somewhat decent looking.



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Smokey Joe Black, Smokey Joe Lime Green, Original Kettle Premium Black,'92 Red OTS, Yellow Simpson's 22, 78 Red MBH, '80 Black MBH, '10 Brick Red Performer,'12 Grass Green Performer, '03 Blue SSP, '97 Blue SSP, 18 inch WSM

bamakettles

#1
I'm not a pro at wood refinishing, but given its current state, it shouldn't hurt to give it a light sanding, stain and coat with polyurethane.  Shouldn't be too hard.  I'd just go easy on the sanding and take your time with medium grit and move to fine grit to get it nice and smooth.  Polyurethane products should have directions on the can - usually a light fine grit sanding between coats.  Some stains also come combined with poly to save time.

Tbagley

#2
I would probably try one of the  Formby's strippers that just removes the topcoat without really removing the stain, bonus is little to no sanding may be needed.  Then decide what kind of top coat you want, I'd consider a Tung oil or something similar so when the finish fades a bit a quick buff with some 1000 steel wool and you can apply another coat or two to refresh the look. 

If you know who made it you could always try reaching out to them and see what they top coated it with as that could change how you might refinish it as it is now.

captjoe06

Smokey Joe Black, Smokey Joe Lime Green, Original Kettle Premium Black,'92 Red OTS, Yellow Simpson's 22, 78 Red MBH, '80 Black MBH, '10 Brick Red Performer,'12 Grass Green Performer, '03 Blue SSP, '97 Blue SSP, 18 inch WSM

Mike in Roseville


Quote from: bamakettles on March 11, 2020, 11:26:36 AM
I'm not a pro at wood refinishing, but given its current state, it shouldn't hurt to give it a light sanding, stain and coat with polyurethane.  Shouldn't be too hard.  I'd just go easy on the sanding and take your time with medium grit and move to fine grit to get it nice and smooth.  Polyurethane products should have directions on the can - usually a light fine grit sanding between coats.  Some stains also come combined with poly to save time.

+1

Lacquer is too thin. Multiple polyurethane coats is a good answer that can hold up to weather (cold/snow or intense sun) if you build it up (stain first if you want it tinted). If you want to sand them down and stain (or not), then build up coats and you'll have a product that will last a bit longer. I have handles from the same seller and have brought up the issue to them months ago. Long story short...you're on your own to fix this.


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racedvl

Here what I use saving original handles....  after a light sanding,  and then a little 0000 steel wool. 

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Mike in Roseville

Helmsman is great stuff. I used it on some wood table legs and they're going on 3 years with no issues. It comes in a rattle can too. Protects against moisture and UV.


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Kneab

I use the same spar varnish, only the aerosol version. Several thin coats with a light polish using 4/0 steel wool between coats.

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ISO Brown Go Anywhere

wildeagle

Is there a finish on them? Do you have to sand them down like fine antique furniture with a liquid deglosser and then treat them with whatever finished you would like satin usually or if they do not have any finish, use teak oil
Quote from: captjoe06 on March 11, 2020, 11:19:01 AM
They weren't cheap and they haven't been on the grill long but hop they can be brought back to somewhat decent looking.



Sent from my iPhone using Weber Kettle Club
Ryan  Andrew Moore

wildeagle

Did they burn?
Quote from: captjoe06 on March 11, 2020, 11:19:01 AM
They weren't cheap and they haven't been on the grill long but hop they can be brought back to somewhat decent looking.



Sent from my iPhone using Weber Kettle Club
Ryan  Andrew Moore