My mini Ranch Kettle build (kind of still in progress).

[demosthenes9]

First, I have to give a couple of shout outs.   First one is to Dustin Flavell.    His thread on his mini RK build was my first introduction to the concept and after seeing it, I was like "oh yeah, I have to do this".    Reading the thread, Dustin gave props to Steve Porter and Stu G for their pioneering efforts in building mini RK's, so shout outs to them as well.

I also owe a debt of thanks to Kevin L (NKY). I kept putting the project off and every now and then Kevin would make a post or PM me asking for a status update  :D   Thanks Kev !! 

Anyways, my variation came about because my 26'er was brand spanking new and I had no desire what so ever to drill holes in it to secure it to the frame.  The idea was to have the grill just sit cradled by the frame.  I went back and forth with all sorts of crazy ideas as to how to strengthen the frame arms to keep it from flexing.   Then finally, I said "***, I don't even know for sure if that's going to be a problem".  So, I just went ahead and got started.  Figured I'd work out any problems as they came up.


I started out by measuring the outer diameter of the kettle, right under the rolled lip.   I didn't write stuff down, but I believe that it was pretty close to 26 inches.   I measured the inside distance between the uprights of each frame leg and calculated that I needed to remove 9 inches from each one.   Another difference between my design and Dustin's (et al's) is that I wanted to remove the uprights that held the charcoal ash pan.  So, instead of 2 cuts to take out 1 9 inch piece of each leg, I took out 4.5 inch segments from each side of each frame leg right where those uprights were.    This means 4 cuts on each frame leg and 2 splices, for a total of 8 cuts and 4 splices.








BTW, I should point out that I made a number of mistakes on the project that others would do well to avoid.   First, my choice of tools.  I didn't have a metal cutting saw blade and didn't want to fork over $45 for one at HD.  So, I got a 10inch metal cut off wheel instead.  It worked fine, but I kind of didn't think to account for the fact that the wheel is over 1/8th of an inch wide.  After drawing your cut line, you need to be sure to line the correct side of the blade up with your marking.   Otherwise, your length could be off by 1/8th inch per cut !!  :mad:

My next problem is that in finding filler for the frame, I went with 1inch steel square tube from HD and a I believe a 1 inch aluminum angle.  What I ran into is that the self tapping SS metal screws wouldn't go into the 1inch square tube, it was too thick/hard.  So, I drilled what I thought was the right size pilot holes.  Some of the screws went in nicely and are holding firm.  With some of the screws, the heads stripped out before the screws were completely sunk in.   Yet other screws snapped off completely causing even more problems.   I'm going to have to go back in, cut some screw heads off, sand them all down, drill them out and then go back with larger pilot holes and larger screws.   That or undo everything and replace the thick 1 inch square tube with thinner gauge tubing.   (Completely open to any suggestions/advice that anyone could provide).

Luckily for me, I wanted to conceal things so the %^#%^$%^$'ed up screw job is fairly well hidden on the underside of the frame.


OK, all that out of way, here's what she looks like right now.














It's a work in progress and there are definitely some issues still to be worked out.   There's some slight outward flexing of the frame uprights, but no where near what I was expecting.  I loaded the grill up with 3 paver bricks, 2 chimneys of charcoal, 8 ears of corn, 7 NY strips and 6 chicken breasts and everything held up fine.   What is happening though is that the uprights want to move side to side more than I'd like.   I'm going to try cutting down and attaching the front handle of the RK cart to see if this solves the problem.  One small holdup right now is that one of the center bolt holes is about 1/4 inch off throwing things out of square.   I might be able to just pull the bolt, drill a new hole and get things to line up right.

Also, as the picture shows, the lip of the grill is resting right on top of the tube caps and the bolt tabs.  Not sure if I'm going to leave it there (but bend the tabs in a bit), or figure out a way to elevate the bowl a little.  I thought about bolting some angle brackets right onto the tube caps and resting the bowl on them?

[swamprb]

Yeah, once you commit and start chopping the Ranch frame its all over but the crying! I was dropping a BNIB 26.75" OTG in as well and it is nerve wracking. Measure a dozen times and cut once!

I read and re-read Stu and Steve P's build threads, asked Stu if there was anything he'd do different next time, learned from Steve's bowl mounting woes and took a deep breath and dove in!

I considered cutting around the ash pan supports, it would have been less time consuming than trying to break the welds and grind them smooth, but at that time I was hoping to drop a 3 wheeler Redhead in. That dream got squashed so I pressed on! That area was a pita to get the welds removed cleanly for me. I used pop rivets and some L braces to beef up the support under the framing for a cleaner look from the top.

Having a Weber boneyard definitely helped me, I salvaged a support rod from a gasser frame and the aluminum angle fit perfect for joining the Ranch frames together. Drilling was a breeze.





If I were to do anything differently, it would be to shorten the ash pan supports and use the pan from a 22" kettle on them instead of working so hard to remove the welds.



My biggest concern was drilling into the uprights to mount that brackets I fab'd for the fold down tables- there are numerous holes for the stock handle for the Ranch on the front frames, I used some automotive hole plugs on them.





I'm still pondering something to use as a shelf under the ash can that sits on the frame-something stainless steel??

Also plan on mounting another handle on the front of the lid - those things are heavy and awkward!

An Unknown BBQ Hinge is also being considered.

Don't worry about the gaps in the frame, a little epoxy or bondo and a rattle can will hide them.



Keep us posted - I think its one of the best mods out there, and for that I give Stu all the credit for taking the initiative to make it happen for the rest of us!

[swamprb]

@demosthenes9

HEADS UP!

The bowl mounting is crucial, any mounting bolts above the grate level will affect the cook grate R&R, so plan accordingly (see Steve Porters thread and learn from his build on this) 

The slide aside holder threads also got extra washers behind them so the nuts don't catch on the grate. Raise that bowl up at least an inch and bend the tabs on the frame to fit.

[demosthenes9]

@demosthenes9

HEADS UP!

The bowl mounting is crucial, any mounting bolts above the grate level will affect the cook grate R&R, so plan accordingly (see Steve Porters thread and learn from his build on this) 

The slide aside holder threads also got extra washers behind them so the nuts don't catch on the grate. Raise that bowl up at least an inch and bend the tabs on the frame to fit.

Man,  your mini RK mod is completely pimp.  I really like the side tables.  I can definitely understand the want of a front lid handle and a hinge.   When I grilled the other night, I actually positioned the miniRK so that it was like a Performer with the lid bale on the left hand side.   This made it much easier to raise the lid.

Mounting bolts aren't going to be a concern for me as I'm doing everything I can to the cart to allow the bowl to just rest on top.  That's my end game.   No harm/destruction/new holes in the bowl or lid at all.

[weldboy]

Very cool build and write up.


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[Travis]

Nice work. That was definitely a fun project.


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