OK, well I posted in the Trading Post that I was in the hunt for a blue SS Performer.
I was first in line and picked it up.
I have to say it is in very nice condition for the age (2002) with only a small amount of flaws.
The tank was empty and looks to get reconditioned so I haven't started it up.
There are a few minor flaws
Some porcelain issues on the bowl - should i address this or just deal with it by not banking coal on the side?
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7452/13313344773_c995e4f838_z.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3746/13313562254_08441777c1_z.jpg)
The vent on the lid is VERY loose and moves, should I drill this out and tighten it? If so what parts do I need?
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2810/13313201855_233c4076f0_z.jpg)
reasonably large blowouts there.....not the end of the world, but you may want to sand down to metal & spray clear to preserve the stuff from rust..... ;D
I'm convinced those pop-outs aren't just from banking, but excessively high heat (maybe combined with banking?)
with the vent rivet, I've turned upside down, set on a soft cloth & tapped the inside of the rivet some to flare it out a bit....seemed to work fine......
Good Show on the pick up !!!
what's the preferred way to clean up the blow outs?
That way I did above might not be the preferred, but worked OK...long time back, no pics....but I think they're still fine at other people's places.....
That's just one way.....others will have different approaches....wipe with cooking oil, etc.....see what comes up here as painting is more involved...... :D
Nice score !
Preserve the species !
On the daisy wheel, I would drill out the rusty rivet.
I just repaired a bent daisy wheel that required removal.
On the replacement kits....
The slotted pan heads that Weber provides in the vent replacement kits have two problems :
1) They're plated steel just like the rivets and will rust
2) They're too big to nest in the recess and look like crap
The solution for me was to use a stainless steel, button-head machine screw (Allen drive).
The size was 1/4-20 x 1/2" , they nest nicely in the daisy wheel's recess and will elliminate the rust issue.
I used the cheapo Weber-supplied lock nuts and cut washers.
I'm about to repair a nasty chip on the lid of a WSM with high heat JB Weld for filler covered by high temp paint.
I'll let the others comment on your porcelain damage, although I would be using the half-moon charcoal baskets from here on out to try to keep excessive heat off of the bowl.
Good luck with the SSP restoration !
^^^ More good ideas !!!!
LB, I would just leave the blown out parts as is but use a rust preventer on them- oil, rust converter, etc. I tried to paint my redhead which has the same damage and the paint flaked off in short order.
So, I had the tank filled up and now I am trying to use the gas assist and it flames a little then it goes out. I am thinking I have a hosed regulator now. Looking on Weber's site to find the cost of that.
I have to say, the overall frame is in really good shape.
Here's the SS "button head" machine screw on my daisy wheel repair.
(http://i61.tinypic.com/2a9vdiw.jpg)
I think it looks pretty good.
Same OD as the rivet head.
Yeah, that does look sharp.....I like the 'machined' look.......... 8)
Congrats on the pick up Jeff. Did you check the orifice for the propane where it enters the burner tube? It maybe gummed over. Also check the burner tube itself for debris. As far as regulators go Menard's has one for around $10.
Good ideas Ted & maybe the equalizing thing that happens with tanks sometimes.....
I have minor trouble with a fresh tank taken to higher altitudes, need to bleed it thru & then it's OK.............
Quote from: DirectDrive on March 21, 2014, 06:49:19 PM
Here's the SS "button head" machine screw on my daisy wheel repair.
(http://i61.tinypic.com/2a9vdiw.jpg)
I think it looks pretty good.
Same OD as the rivet head.
That looks very nice, what sized drill bit did you use to drill it out? Also did you use a lock washer on the underside to keep it from coming loose?
Quote from: LightningBoldtz on March 22, 2014, 03:04:21 AM
Quote from: DirectDrive on March 21, 2014, 06:49:19 PM
Here's the SS "button head" machine screw on my daisy wheel repair.
(http://i61.tinypic.com/2a9vdiw.jpg)
I think it looks pretty good.
Same OD as the rivet head.
That looks very nice, what sized drill bit did you use to drill it out? Also did you use a lock washer on the underside to keep it from coming loose?
LB, a lock washer may be a little much for the porcelain and thin steel, a wave washer may be a more suitable.
I had a performer with the same surgery. This was the fastener - worked pretty well
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/barlhkcclc4aaf0/images.jpeg)
Winz
Quote from: LightningBoldtz on March 22, 2014, 03:04:21 AM
Quote from: DirectDrive on March 21, 2014, 06:49:19 PM
Here's the SS "button head" machine screw on my daisy wheel repair.
(http://i61.tinypic.com/2a9vdiw.jpg)
I think it looks pretty good.
Same OD as the rivet head.
That looks very nice, what sized drill bit did you use to drill it out?
I think It was
about 1/4" 19/64" (pro-type 135 degree) and I didn't want to blast through and take the chance of damaging anything.
I used that bit because it was sharp and large enough to cut away at the rivet flange (inside the kettle). Go slow and lightly tap with a center punch (and hammer) to check progress.
Do not drill through with this size bit...the hole in the kettle needs to remain at 1/4"
Instead I went slowly and just thinned the rivet flange until I could manually push it out.
The bit never touches the kettle.
The 135 degree business describes the cutter angle on the bit....consumer grade bits are "pointier" and are not a good choice for this.
QuoteAlso did you use a lock washer on the underside to keep it from coming loose?
No, the better solution is a lock nut and a cut (flat) washer for it to ride against.
I used a Weber lock nut which looks like a Nylock nut except no nylon insert.
A lock washer would be OK if you were never going to move the daisy wheel....the back and forth action might loosen it, otherwise.
Even the lock nut could loosen, I suppose.
Another way to look at is that you are trying to simulate a rivet flange, so you want all the locking to occur at the nut.
Quote from: LightningBoldtz on March 21, 2014, 02:58:18 PM
So, I had the tank filled up and now I am trying to use the gas assist and it flames a little then it goes out.
Try this. Light the gas assist like normal. With the tank valve still open, close the in-line valve. Now open the in-line valve and hit the ignitor button. More times than not, that will give me the correct flame.
That is, unless your burner tube and/or orfice is plugged with crap.
Gas assist cleaning:
http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/weber-kettles-accessories/working-on-ss-performers-gummi-bear-build-log-pic-heavy/
Written, halfway down Pg. 1
Pics, high up on Pg. 5
I haven't had a chance to read the most recent replies to this, I did however make a video to show you what is going on.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blmjRsWOZKc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blmjRsWOZKc)
BTW, I called Weber and a new Regulator costs $98
Quote from: LightningBoldtz on March 22, 2014, 02:14:53 PM
I haven't had a chance to read the most recent replies to this, I did however make a video to show you what is going on.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blmjRsWOZKc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blmjRsWOZKc)
BTW, I called Weber and a new Regulator costs $98
WOW. I paid $45 for mine last year and I thought I was getting fleeced. My buddy might have an extra but it's untested. If you are interested, lmk.
It is possible that the regulator is goofed......
I found this some time ago.....
A guy who actually knows what the hell goes on with this stuff:
"If there is no residual pressure in the hose and regulator, the needle valve stays in the shut position, and very little gas gets to your grill.'
That little nugget is from the middle of one of his two posts on this page:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/related-topics/43349-gas-grill-propane-tank-2.html
I know it seems like a lot of reading thru shit, but if it's something that can be remedied without great expenditure, then woopie......
Also, what they're talking about is full on gassers, but I do believe the same principles apply.....
a buddy of mine had a large gas oven (caterer's rig, nice) up at a music festival a few years ago & we went thru this same stuff, I've gone thru the "re-set" dance w/ my little Camp Chef 2-burner also.... sputtering and/or low flow...........
Forgot to say: That rig does look REAL nice....the table, the lid, the frame are in rocket shape....blowouts are minor compared to that !!!!
Deleted, wrong thread.
8)
Quote from: pbe gummi bear on March 22, 2014, 02:23:32 PM
Quote from: LightningBoldtz on March 22, 2014, 02:14:53 PM
I haven't had a chance to read the most recent replies to this, I did however make a video to show you what is going on.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blmjRsWOZKc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blmjRsWOZKc)
BTW, I called Weber and a new Regulator costs $98
WOW. I paid $45 for mine last year and I thought I was getting fleeced. My buddy might have an extra but it's untested. If you are interested, lmk.
I may take you up on that, I will let you know.
Great looking SS Performer, what's with the black ash pan? Did you change it?
I thought they only came post 2000's models?
My performer starts the same as yours on the first click of the ignition button, same noise, lights up for about 2-3 seconds and then it goes out, but when I click the ignition a second time it starts and runs perfectly. I installed a new regulator on mine a year ago and it has done this since I first installed it.
Quote from: Hogsy on March 23, 2014, 02:11:27 AM
Great looking SS Performer, what's with the black ash pan? Did you change it?
I thought they only came post 2000's models?
My performer starts the same as yours on the first click of the ignition button, same noise, lights up for about 2-3 seconds and then it goes out, but when I click the ignition a second time it starts and runs perfectly. I installed a new regulator on mine a year ago and it has done this since I first installed it.
RE the black pan, that I got from a past OT grill and love it so much that it follows me from grill to grill.