I thought I would start a thread where we could post pics of different finishes you've put on the wooden handles in your collection as a reference for someone who wants to finish their handles, but doesn't know what products to use.
Post away!!! ;D
Tung oil and then spar varnish...like mine with the natural look of the wood.
GREAT idea.
Stand by for a picture of Brian's oak handle with JUST spar varnish:
This is the Varnish:
(http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/2013/78418452.jpg)
This is the handle after 3-4 coats.
(http://s8.postimg.org/5uetanek5/topnvu.jpg)
That is the process I use when I want a really really light finish, and I think it looks really good on the forest green and reds.
Watco Teak Oil Finish.
Slow to get the appearance I like, but very durable.
Formby's Low Gloss Tung Oil
Tung oil on the old handles
Spar varnish on the new ones
The varnish looks great on new handles it brings out the grain and natural color of the wood
But on old handles it looks to shiny because most of the natural color has weathered away
Say you've got an old weathered handle. It's turned gray but hasn't rotted away.
What do you/can you do to spruce (no pun intended) it up? Lets say some color stain is desired and then a decent gloss.
And the lazy, is such a task possible without removing it, drilling out the rivets or whatever?
Part of the problem w/ discussions like these is the 'old handles' came from a bunch of different versions, and pinning down which kind people are talking about is hard. Somtimes, people will refer to a 'teak' hand;le, when in fact it is not teak just a strange orange wood that looks really bad no matter what finish you put on it.
Some of them are just terrible, others are average to ok. But I know all the ones I get from Brian are perfect.
I recently refinished the two original handles on my '88 redhead. I started by closing two small cracks with Gorilla Glue and sanding them down as little as possible, but as much as was necessary to get through the gray. I then applied three coats of Minwax 2 in 1 Pulyurethane with Stain. I used the Pecan color, Satin finish. I felt like I was taking the easy way out, but they turned out really nice. Here are some photos:
http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/weber-kettles-accessories/my-'k'-redhead-restoration/msg39644/#msg39644
Quote from: cbpeck on June 28, 2013, 01:48:37 PM
I recently refinished the two original handles on my '88 redhead. I started by closing two small cracks with Gorilla Glue and sanding them down as little as possible, but as much as was necessary to get through the gray. I then applied three coats of Minwax 2 in 1 Pulyurethane with Stain. I used the Pecan color, Satin finish. I felt like I was taking the easy way out, but they turned out really nice. Here are some photos:
http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/weber-kettles-accessories/my-'k'-redhead-restoration/msg39644/#msg39644
They do look great
Have you got any before shots of the handles so we can see what condition they were in before the resto?
Absolutely some kind of oil to bring the grain, and then spar. If you want a duller finish then just buy matte spar varnish.....I never use high gloss. I use satin....
Yeah Brian, I typically don't like a gloss finish and would usually go semi. I am suprised how much I like it on your oak handles though.
Great thread! Anyone have before and after pics?
I received 4 wood handles today from Brian and I started out with a few coats of minwax Cherry stain, then I plan to apply minwax polyurethane, satin finish.
Basically I am looking to make the handles smoke and water proof with the poly.
Thanks Brian
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3758/9162810254_8e83a17646.jpg)
I've used Teak Oil on some, Minwax Colonial Maple then finished off with polyurethane on others, walnut stain/poly for another.
Here's a couple pics...
Colonial Maple on a walnut O'Neal....looks like walnut stain.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img600/2103/photojun04200738.jpg)
Teak Oil on an original handle...
(http://imageshack.us/a/img20/1773/photomay03114205.jpg)
Teak Oil on an O'Neal
(http://imageshack.us/a/img43/6350/photomay03122937.jpg)
Teak Oil on an original '97
(http://imageshack.us/a/img834/8954/97joehandle.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img225/7133/88kjoehandle.jpg)
Walnut/Poly on an original
(http://imageshack.us/a/img337/5517/60skettle.jpg)
Teak Oil on an O'Neal
(http://imageshack.us/a/img585/2964/imagelsa.jpg)
Walnut on a Walnut O'Neal
(http://imageshack.us/a/img38/4282/9m5u.jpg)
Original "The One The Only" I got from Duke.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img208/929/v2vu.jpg)
Thanks for starting this thread! It's very timely for me, as Bman and I are collaborating on rehabbing a couple of older gassers with new handles and wood tables. In fact, I just bought some spar varnish today to do some field-testing (I've never used it before).
I'm a big fan of teak oil for our patio furniture, but noticed that it takes a while to really 'cure', and I've been worried about it getting tacky when it is really close to a source of high heat (like when it's on a grill handle). Has anyone else had trouble with this?
I wish I had read this thread before because I am kinda ignorant when it comes to treating wood.
I wondered if Brian rolls his eyes when some of us rookies talk about poisoning his handles with Cherry stain and polyurethane. HAHA
I was really impressed and please with the finished handle that I got from Brian for my 60's kettle, well worth the extra money.
Quote from: Hogsy on June 28, 2013, 01:51:42 PM
Quote from: cbpeck on June 28, 2013, 01:48:37 PM
I recently refinished the two original handles on my '88 redhead. I started by closing two small cracks with Gorilla Glue and sanding them down as little as possible, but as much as was necessary to get through the gray. I then applied three coats of Minwax 2 in 1 Pulyurethane with Stain. I used the Pecan color, Satin finish. I felt like I was taking the easy way out, but they turned out really nice. Here are some photos:
http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/weber-kettles-accessories/my-'k'-redhead-restoration/msg39644/#msg39644
They do look great
Have you got any before shots of the handles so we can see what condition they were in before the resto?
Thanks for the compliment. Sorry, but no before shots. I can tell you they were cracked and mostly gray. It took quite a bit of fine, careful sanding to uncover fresh wood. Like any finish, 90% of the final product is determined by the quality of the prep work, and in the case of my handles the prep was gluing & sanding.
Quote from: mike.stavlund on June 28, 2013, 05:27:38 PM
Thanks for starting this thread! It's very timely for me, as Bman and I are collaborating on rehabbing a couple of older gassers with new handles and wood tables. In fact, I just bought some spar varnish today to do some field-testing (I've never used it before).
I'm a big fan of teak oil for our patio furniture, but noticed that it takes a while to really 'cure', and I've been worried about it getting tacky when it is really close to a source of high heat (like when it's on a grill handle). Has anyone else had trouble with this?
I agree on letting the teak oil cure. Otherwise it can be tacky against a hot lid.
As for polyurethane as a finish, I haven't had an issue with it so far but I haven't use it on every handle. Maybe ill give spar varnish a whirl next round.
MinWax Golden Pecan and 3-4 coats of poly in these original handles from the late 70's and 69'
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w478/javahog2002/DSCN1340_zps93a48628.jpg)
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w478/javahog2002/DSCN1228_zpsf9acca49.jpg)
Java, those are just gorgeous. Thanks for the pics.
Isn't tung oil just a 'watered down' version of regular varnish?
I've used boiled linseed oil to get the grain to pop, then coated with shellac then lacquer. But, not for anything that goes outdoors. Just interior cabinetry & trim. Spar is decent, but when it wears out it should be completely sanded off and reapplied. Probably not a big deal on something small like handles, but if they're stained it might pose a coloring issue.
I'm probably way over thinking this shit, but (interior) wood finishing was my profession. :)
Anyone notice the spar finished handles get soft with the heat?
Quote from: Bman on June 29, 2013, 03:37:29 AM
Isn't tung oil just a 'watered down' version of regular varnish?
I've used boiled linseed oil to get the grain to pop, then coated with shellac then lacquer. But, not for anything that goes outdoors. Just interior cabinetry & trim. Spar is decent, but when it wears out it should be completely sanded off and reapplied. Probably not a big deal on something small like handles, but if they're stained it might pose a coloring issue.
I'm probably way over thinking this shit, but (interior) wood finishing was my profession. :)
Anyone notice the spar finished handles get soft with the heat?
I considered using the marine varnish but the fact that I cover all my grills I thought the interior poly would work just fine. I suppose I may regret it but so far so good.
So Bman, seems like you are down on spar, what would you use?
It's not that I'm down on spar, it's just not as 'nice' as the interior finishes I've worked with. Each time you add a coat, it builds layer on top of layer. Think printer paper all stacked up one sitting on top of the other. With finishes like lacquer, each layer burns (melts into) the previous layer. For refinishing purposes, the burned in finishes is superior to the layered finishes. When you sand the layered finishes, you have the layers to 'fill in'. When it wears out, it'll flake/peel and thats where an entire sand/finish should be applied. Again, way too knit-picky for small handles, but it's what my brain knows.
For the exterior of wooden entry doors, spar finishes is what I've used. I don't do much of it, don't like the application/results as much as the interior finishes, but it's a different world. I haven't found anything better, but haven't explored it much either. I'm also curious if the lid heat has any affect on the finish which would soften it up during use.
To answer your question of what would I use? Don't know. Probably some sort of oil/shellac to pop the grain and top coat it with spar to protect it.
I guess I am looking at it as, so long as the handles are covered then using interior poly is better than nothing at all. If I am wrong, well I suppose I would have to buy more handles from Brian......
Quote from: Bman on June 29, 2013, 03:37:29 AM
Isn't tung oil just a 'watered down' version of regular varnish?
I have never heard that, but it's possible. I have just been using tung oil, but it's not the pure 100% stuff. It's Formbys low gloss and I really like it. In the past I used to stain and use marine varnish.
Maybe this is what I read
(or something close to this) a number of years back.
QuoteTung oil has become popular as an environmentally friendly wood finish, but it should be noted that many products labelled as "tung oil finishes" are deceptively labelled: polymerized oils, wiping varnishes, and oil/varnish blends have all been known to be sold as tung oil finishes (sometimes containing no tung oil at all), and all the above contain solvents and/or chemical driers. Product packaging will usually clearly state if it is pure tung oil, so there is a good chance you will be buying something else if the sales literature is vague.
Another tid-bit of info (that I just learned) which should be known.
QuoteAs the source of tung oil is a nut, people with nut allergies often report adverse reactions to contact with (or even the odour of) tung oil. Reactions can be severe in some cases. While tung oil has been used for many centuries as a finish for kitchen items such as wooden bowls and cutting boards, some individuals must avoid its use.
Here is a GREAT article about oil finishes that we could all benefit from.
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use
Chad, are things like shellac or even polyurethane not mentioned in that link because they're not a finish per se, but a "top coat"?
I readily admit to being attracted to anything that will protect the finish for as long as possible when left outdoors, even at the expense of utmost appearance. Which is a contradiction, I realize.
I looked at my can of Formbys and it say 'ting oil finish'. Then below it calls it a varnish, so you were right. I was in a store recently where I saw pure tung oil. It was at ACE I think. I'm going to get a bottle the next time I am there. Thanks Bman!
I have two handles made of maple. Any advice for what I should do with them? I'd like to make the grain pop out and darken them up a bit for my chimneys. Thanks!
Addicted - That link/article was about oil finishes. That's why you didn't read anything about shellac/lacquer/etc. as those are solvent finishes. Varnish is also a solvent finish, but mixed with oils to produce various "marketed finishes" which is why the term varnish kept appearing.
Duke - I've never used pure tung oil, so no words of wisdom here. I am glad you were able to educate yourself with the products us consumers are purchasing. Like you said, the bottle of Formbys says tung oil, but that's not all that's in the bottle.
Gummi - For starters, I think I've helped blow this way out of proportion. There's really nothing "wrong" with any of the finishes that people posted/used. They must have worked and been happy with the results otherwise they would have posted a 'don't do this' comment. Take Duke for example - he's been really happy with his "tung oil finished" handles. But now he's aware that he's actually been using an oil/varnish mixture.
Oil & solvents like shellac & lacquer will make the grain pop. But, there's almost zero protection from those products. (on the exterior) Water & sun will wear out a pure oil or lacquered finish in no time flat. That's where the benefit of the mixed finishes (oil & varnish) comes in as you get a bit of both. And they dry a lot quicker than pure oil.
What do I think is the best practice? Keeping the grills under cover when not in use, dry as much as possible, clean, and some sort of finish that makes em' look good. What that finish is ----- no right answer. Personally, I'll probably use whatever I have on hand or what's available locally. An oil to make the grain pop and some sort of varnish to add durability. Might even be a deceptively sold product that's one-in-the-same as the linked article refers to.
My goal of making these posts wasn't to point out or say what everyone is doing is wrong. Just additional education for the stuff that's being sold so each one of us can make our own decisions.
Quote from: Bman on June 29, 2013, 11:22:48 AM
Addicted - That link/article was about oil finishes. That's why you didn't read anything about shellac/lacquer/etc. as those are solvent finishes. Varnish is also a solvent finish, but mixed with oils to produce various "marketed finishes" which is why the term varnish kept appearing.
Duke - I've never used pure tung oil, so no words of wisdom here. I am glad you were able to educate yourself with the products us consumers are purchasing. Like you said, the bottle of Formbys says tung oil, but that's not all that's in the bottle.
Gummi - For starters, I think I've helped blow this way out of proportion. There's really nothing "wrong" with any of the finishes that people posted/used. They must have worked and been happy with the results otherwise they would have posted a 'don't do this' comment. Take Duke for example - he's been really happy with his "tung oil finished" handles. But now he's aware that he's actually been using an oil/varnish mixture.
Oil & solvents like shellac & lacquer will make the grain pop. But, there's almost zero protection from those products. (on the exterior) Water & sun will wear out a pure oil or lacquered finish in no time flat. That's where the benefit of the mixed finishes (oil & varnish) comes in as you get a bit of both. And they dry a lot quicker than pure oil.
What do I think is the best practice? Keeping the grills under cover when not in use, dry as much as possible, clean, and some sort of finish that makes em' look good. What that finish is ----- no right answer. Personally, I'll probably use whatever I have on hand or what's available locally. An oil to make the grain pop and some sort of varnish to add durability. Might even be a deceptively sold product that's one-in-the-same as the linked article refers to.
My goal of making these posts wasn't to point out or say what everyone is doing is wrong. Just additional education for the stuff that's being sold so each one of us can make our own decisions.
Thanks Chad. I like to learn about the details so I don't think it has blown out of proportion. I would just stain (I use that word colloquially) the wood but I was wondering if there was a better way. Ill look into the oil and varnish mixture because I want them to be low maintenance.
I'm still not sure why some people dislike polyurethane for handles. Is there a concern about the heat exposure or is it something else? I'm not aware of anything more weather resistant than polyurethane, and the satin finishes are quite nice, IMO.
Spar is superior to the poly I have used. I have handles I finished a year ago with poly and they haven't held up nearly as good as the spar. Most spar varnish is marine grade, which is designed to get wet. Unless you go to conversion varnish which is the best stuff I have ever seen. I'm sticking with spar varnish...
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk 2
Quote from: Bman on June 29, 2013, 11:22:48 AM
For starters, I think I've helped blow this way out of proportion.
Not at all... just rescued 3 old wooden handles that could use some cleaning up, and this thread has been very educational. Thanks!
This thread is great, I have 3 original wooden handles from a 95' in ok shape, I just finished cleaning/sanding down and am ready to treat, my question is should I apply a mineral oil or any type of oil or just stain and spar varnish, they will be going on a red and I dont want them to dark.
Quote from: Dave O on June 29, 2013, 03:19:33 PM
my question is should I apply a mineral oil or any type of oil or just stain and spar varnish, they will be going on a red and I dont want them to dark.
*IF* you were to use all 3, the order is stain, oil, topcoat. But it sounds like you'd be just fine skipping the oil part. With a true oil, it takes days to dry before you apply a topcoat otherwise it might turn cloudy. My recommendation - stain & spar varnish. The oil makes the grain pop which is nice for natural wood with a clear topcoat. Staining the wood kinda takes place of the oil giving you the color you want.
Gummi - stain or 1 coat of oil won't do anything other than give you color. An oil/varnish blend will take a few light coats to achieve decent protection. Poly or Spar are fairly quick and will leave pretty good protection while being low maintenance if you keep them under cover, dry, and clean. Leave them out in the elements, especially the sun, and it'll show.
cbpeck - For handyman projects, varnish is probably just fine and most people would be happy with it. Since I finish a shit-load of custom cabinets & trim work, varnish isn't even an option. Lacquer or conversion varnish is where it's at. But,,, that's for the interior. Lacquer flat out sucks outdoors. Would I use varnish on my own? No. Would someone else be thrilled with varnish? Absolutely.
Quote from: Bman on June 29, 2013, 03:37:29 AM
Isn't tung oil just a 'watered down' version of regular varnish?
I've used boiled linseed oil to get the grain to pop, then coated with shellac then lacquer. But, not for anything that goes outdoors. Just interior cabinetry & trim. Spar is decent, but when it wears out it should be completely sanded off and reapplied. Probably not a big deal on something small like handles, but if they're stained it might pose a coloring issue.
I'm probably way over thinking this shit, but (interior) wood finishing was my profession. :)
Anyone notice the spar finished handles get soft with the heat?
The spar on mine seems to be hard when they are hot....I haven't noticed anything getting soft....
How about just using a semi-transparent stain/water seal like you would put on your deck? Anyone tried that? Not sure what colors and I guess it wouldn't be very shiney but wouldn't it be protected? I have about 6 sets of original handles,pretty solid but dingy and gray just siting in a bag just waiting for restoration
14 months or so with just spar varnish on the handles. They are holding up great and do not seem to soften during use. I also used spar on the custom side table I made.
Quote from: Michael Berry on June 29, 2013, 08:22:07 PM
How about just using a semi-transparent stain/water seal like you would put on your deck? Anyone tried that? Not sure what colors and I guess it wouldn't be very shiney but wouldn't it be protected? I have about 6 sets of original handles,pretty solid but dingy and gray just siting in a bag just waiting for restoration
I have some semi transparent and it looks nice. I know weber used a solid orangy tan for a while that actually looks pretty good.
Spar is also nice and durable. I used to use it on old handles and my custom side table, but since getting Brians I haven't wanted to use it. I still just like to oil them.
Alright you guys have inspired me. I have 3 unfinished oak and 2 unfinished maple (!) O'neals sitting here and I am gonna finish them. I just picked up some products so stay tuned for the before and after. I just did the first coat and they look sweet.
I got inspired, too, to get going on some samples for a red gasser I'm restoring. Going to try out a few different options on slats for the side tables, and do some field (heat) testing of a finished handle (everything new is in white oak). So I'll hopefully have some photos to share in a few days (my first coat on some stuff was in oil, and I'm heeding Bman's advice to let that oil cure really well before topcoating it).
Help! I accidentally rubbed Danish oil on a pre varnished handle. It's all tacky and gross now. What's the best way to strip it down?
Try wiping it sown with paint thinner or mineral spirits.
Mmmm Danish oil.... Sounds delicious! Hopefully it comes off PBE!
"my kettle is more powerful it will do almost anything."
Okay, so here are some different options for finish.
These are samples for the side table on a late-90s Genesis gasser. All in white oak, which is supposed to be great for outdoor applications (they used to make ships out of it). They need another day or two of curing before I do some heat-testing on the grill, but they are hard enough to photograph.
Left to right: satin spar varnish only, clear Australian Timber Oil only, spar varnish over timber oil (one coat of timber oil only (per the directions), three coats of spar varnish with light sanding in between coats).
(http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r782/MikeStavlund/IMG_0212_zps4136e1e8.jpg) (http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/MikeStavlund/media/IMG_0212_zps4136e1e8.jpg.html)
(http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r782/MikeStavlund/IMG_0217_zps25992d48.jpg) (http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/MikeStavlund/media/IMG_0217_zps25992d48.jpg.html)
Sorry for the glare off the varnish. I thought I had a nice overcast day for photos, but the sun started peeking out right when I started snapping.
They all look good, but the centre one is my fav
lol. do you have stock in Australian Oil, Hogsy? ;-)
For reference, here's a couple of Brian's products in three coats of 'satin' Spar Varnish...
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a387/saxart/Grills/GreenPerformer.jpg) (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/saxart/media/Grills/GreenPerformer.jpg.html)
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a387/saxart/Grills/JumboJoe.jpg) (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/saxart/media/Grills/JumboJoe.jpg.html)
Some updates on some Oak and Maple Handles. Before and after of Watco Danish oil "Golden Oak" It's an oil and varnish mixture. The pics arent the best but they have a honeyish color to them now.
Before
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/q71/s720x720/1150188_10100113134349658_798326952_n.jpg)
After
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/p480x480/999574_10100113134389578_1645470462_n.jpg)
Those burled maple handles are so great.
Quote from: G$ on August 08, 2013, 03:28:39 PM
Those burled maple handles are so great.
I agree. I was bummed that I was only able to procure two- but lo and behold I found a Mastertouch, and those only have two handles!