Any suggestions on how to remove the kettle from the frame with the pesky locking bolts? Also I can't seem to find the thread on the leg connector pieces with the nut inside on both ends. I am looking for the nut that the bolt screws into in order to attach the leg connectors back to the rest of the frame?
Locking bolts? The Kettle is attached with easy to remove nuts and bolts. Nothing that 2 wrenches shouldn't easily handle. A socket wrench is faster. As for he frame connector, thats a 1/4x20, (As most all the hardware will be.) but if the insert is broken or rusted out, (As most are) you will need to repair it. Look for repairs done by a few other members. There is tons of info on rebuilding these. Of course, pics will help us guide you. You can use Photobucket to host your pics. Its FREE!
AJ 8)
Quote from: vader06 on June 09, 2013, 10:20:07 AM
Any suggestions on how to remove the kettle from the frame with the pesky locking bolts? Also I can't seem to find the thread on the leg connector pieces with the nut inside on both ends. I am looking for the nut that the bolt screws into in order to attach the leg connectors back to the rest of the frame?
The kettle is held on with 1/4-20 bolts. Use a 7/16 wrench or socket and it should come right off. The frame thread you are looking for can be found here: http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/weber-kettles-accessories/performer-frame-question/msg30884/#msg30884
Search "star nut" or "star nuts" and more threads will pop up.
Not so easy on this grill. The bolts are stripped and the nuts pretty much fell apart. I will have to carefully take a grinder to it. One of the things that should be simple but it is not. I was really frustrated with it.
Hmm I wonder if the PO replaced them. Every ss performer that I've seen had these sheet metal bolts that barely rust and break free really easily.
The kettle to frame bolts normally don't rust that much and come apart quite easily. Even if frozen together, a socket and wrench have enough torque to break them in half. They aren't grade 8 or anything. Just zinc coated steel.
Maybe use an easy out.
Basically a drill bit in reverse.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99eg03UN1VQ
Most of the bolts I've had to grind off are the lid bail and burner tube bolts , I've had a few stripped frame bolts it happens . I had a really bad one it's under 93' performer frame restoration
I think the previous owner put these nuts and bolts on the grill. The bolts are maybe the originals they are just stripped really bad. A socket wrench and wrench could barely grab it. The upper part of the nut that locks the bolt is all that is left. It looks like a washer with teeth holding the bolt. When I get those off I will be replacing them with stainless steel nuts and bolts.
Also I was able to go to a bike shop today and get star nuts put in my leg connectors for the frame. That made my day. Thanks to the thread here on WKC.
Sometimes, the right set of Vise-Grips locking pliers on a rounded bolt head will work but you gotta clamp it down really hard on the bolt head.
Or a slightly too small "disposable" socket --- I sometimes get a cheap socket that I know will split apart after getting pounded onto it. That reminds me, I've got some lock lug nuts I need to remove from my car "before it's too late". (Can't find the lock key.)