Just Got This One, Not sure if I'm going to repair it or look for a trade for a red kettle.
Everything works, I'm pretty sure all I need to do is tack the legs to the frame and it's missing one of the casters. The bowl is in great shape. The charcoal bin is in great shape, the ash sweeps work well.
What do you guys think?
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Here's a video-
https://www.instagram.com/p/BG4yenlxKGE/ (https://www.instagram.com/p/BG4yenlxKGE/)
Its worth keeping and fixing. The bowl is in good shape and like you said, the frame can be fixed easily.
That green looks great when all cleaned up.
I dunno if that propane tank still has juice tho.
Threaded rod mod. Get some threaded rod at Home Depot. Run a length slightly longer than you need through the bar, attach a nut on the end.
So the top is in decent shape but the frame not-so-much
Has anyone used the top with bowl and stainless table/charcoal bin part and built a wooden frame to attach to everything under that?
All the parts are there, it's just the square vertiacal tubes have lost their connection to the top part of the frame
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7237/27758861601_dd4bf3d8b6_c.jpg)
Here's where one of the vertical supports has lost its connection to the underside of the table part
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7467/27733378762_e0d38d2021_c.jpg)
Everything on the top side is in good condition, but underneath, notsomuch.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7235/27758857611_b529f7b763_c.jpg)
I'm curious what you guys would do.
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I think that I would look into the allthread solution that others have proposed in other threads. If you can bang/grind/steel wool/sand/and paint up those messy parts, a few long allthreads and other stainless hardware would probably make the frame bulletproof. Or...if you are good friends with a very good welder...
Threaded rod won't work through the vertical sections. There is nothing to connect on the bottom of the tubes and the rod would conflict with the casters and wheel axle. You might be able to get the star nuts to work if the inside of the tops of the bottom tubes are sound enough. Also depends on whether the material from the original connection is still in there and gets in the way.
on the vertical sections you can use a eye bolt held in place by a bolt thru the eye of the bolt
@captjoe06
Quote from: TexasOnion on June 23, 2016, 05:01:34 AM
on the vertical sections you can use a eye bolt held in place by a bolt thru the eye of the bolt @captjoe06
I'm thinking about going this route for the vertical sections. For the horizontal I'm thinking about getting some 1 inch square aluminum tubing,cutting it so it goes over the edge of the lower horizontal cross tube and bolting through both of them.
Here's the plan I think unless my buddy that is a welder can make a solid tack from the vertical supports to the top of the frame.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7633/27860780585_211feb56ec_b.jpg)
I think the star nuts would be a better option than eye bolts. You'll get a nice hex head on the top of the frame rather than the bolt/nut combo and will look cleaner.
Did the long bottom tubes not come with the frame? You can use star nuts on those as well, even if you buy the new tubing. Star nuts will let you replicate the original look. You'd need eight of them (four on the top, four on the bottom) to bolt everything back together. Probably a little more expensive than eye bolts, but a cleaner fix.
http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/weber-kettles-accessories/replacing-internal-star-nuts/?PHPSESSID=b959664f03f290d38d6efa9c1b633aee (http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/weber-kettles-accessories/replacing-internal-star-nuts/?PHPSESSID=b959664f03f290d38d6efa9c1b633aee)
$10 for 10 star nuts on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00570UKT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_yWcBxbXYMWX2H (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00570UKT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_yWcBxbXYMWX2H)
Quote from: haeffb on June 23, 2016, 10:28:22 AM
I think the star nuts would be a better option than eye bolts. You'll get a nice hex head on the top of the frame rather than the bolt/nut combo and will look cleaner.
Did the long bottom tubes not come with the frame? You can use star nuts on those as well, even if you buy the new tubing. Star nuts will let you replicate the original look. You'd need eight of them (four on the top, four on the bottom) to bolt everything back together. Probably a little more expensive than eye bolts, but a cleaner fix.
http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/weber-kettles-accessories/replacing-internal-star-nuts/?PHPSESSID=b959664f03f290d38d6efa9c1b633aee (http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/weber-kettles-accessories/replacing-internal-star-nuts/?PHPSESSID=b959664f03f290d38d6efa9c1b633aee)
$10 for 10 star nuts on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00570UKT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_yWcBxbXYMWX2H (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00570UKT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_yWcBxbXYMWX2H)
Thanks a bunch. Just ordered the star nuts. Do you have a description/part on Amazon of the bolts that you use to screw in. This is a much better option , I agree. Thanks a bunch!
Quote from: captjoe06 on June 23, 2016, 10:54:14 AM
Thanks a bunch. Just ordered the star nuts. Do you have a description/part on Amazon of the bolts that you use to screw in. This is a much better option , I agree. Thanks a bunch!
Couple of options:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012TI5D9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_QidBxb9M0GNWB (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012TI5D9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_QidBxb9M0GNWB)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015IGQJN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_1kdBxbMNMCV0W (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015IGQJN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_1kdBxbMNMCV0W)
I would probably go with the first, but it depends. On which you like better.
Get some SS washers from your local hardware and you're set.
Quote from: haeffb on June 23, 2016, 11:06:04 AM
Quote from: captjoe06 on June 23, 2016, 10:54:14 AM
Thanks a bunch. Just ordered the star nuts. Do you have a description/part on Amazon of the bolts that you use to screw in. This is a much better option , I agree. Thanks a bunch!
Couple of options:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012TI5D9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_QidBxb9M0GNWB (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012TI5D9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_QidBxb9M0GNWB)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015IGQJN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_1kdBxbMNMCV0W (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015IGQJN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_1kdBxbMNMCV0W)
I would probably go with the first, but it depends. On which you like better.
Get some SS washers from your local hardware and you're set.
Thanks a bunch! Love this option! Can't wait for them to arrive so I can get started!
Quote from: haeffb on June 23, 2016, 10:28:22 AM
I think the star nuts would be a better option than eye bolts. You'll get a nice hex head on the top of the frame rather than the bolt/nut combo and will look cleaner.
Did the long bottom tubes not come with the frame? You can use star nuts on those as well, even if you buy the new tubing. Star nuts will let you replicate the original look. You'd need eight of them (four on the top, four on the bottom) to bolt everything back together. Probably a little more expensive than eye bolts, but a cleaner fix.
http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/weber-kettles-accessories/replacing-internal-star-nuts/?PHPSESSID=b959664f03f290d38d6efa9c1b633aee (http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/weber-kettles-accessories/replacing-internal-star-nuts/?PHPSESSID=b959664f03f290d38d6efa9c1b633aee)
$10 for 10 star nuts on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00570UKT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_yWcBxbXYMWX2H (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00570UKT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_yWcBxbXYMWX2H)
What I just realized is that the bottom tubes are 1 inch but the vertical support tubes are 1 and a quarter. I wonder if the star nuts will work on both.
You'll have to get different size star nuts:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#steel-tube-connector-nuts/=12zq73s (http://www.mcmaster.com/#steel-tube-connector-nuts/=12zq73s)
Here is how I got her the frame completely disassembled and in pieces.
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Setting up to be able to work upright
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The plan-
I decided to go with a plan involving running allthread through the holes and the square horizontal tube where the rusted out bolts were and secure the ends with an acorn nut. I also bought some new square aluminum 1 inch tube but am deciding to try to use the original black tubing and if it doesn't work out i can always go back and purchase the 1 inch aluminum square tubing. The cost of the tubing was $33 and I didn't want to spend it if I didn't have to. After assessing the original black horizontal tubing I had decided it didn't seem solid enough to jam star nuts down into so this is another reason I'm going with the allthread rod rout.
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First need to remove the rusted off bolts that secured the Performer's horizontal cross brace square tubes. Sprayed them with WD-40, put a vice grip on the rusted bolt and another on the nut and with a little pressure they snapped right off, all four of them.
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For anyone that wold rather replace the bolts with more original starnuts and a bolt, the bolt that came on the Performer originally is 2 inches.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7416/27885091596_a9cb3cf30c_c.jpg)
As I decided to run a threaded rod all the way through the square cross-brace tube and the holes where the bolts I removed was located and then cap the rod off with an acorn nut. Here was the hardware from Ace Hometown Hardware store, Gloucester MA.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7085/27919608405_b249bd32a7_c.jpg)4 acorn nuts, 8 nuts to secure the washers inside the square tube and 4 washers which were the diameter of the inside of the tube to hold it in place.
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x
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So I get to the last nut, 8th out of 8, 7 went on flawlessly and were all adjusted to right where I wanted them on the threaded rod. Wouldn't you know that last nut wouldn't go on. So I put the vice grips to it and it wasn't til I got about an inch on that I realized that I stripped the thread and there would be no way the acorn nut would screw on. So back to the hardware store for a new rod and a three extra nuts (for insurance). The rod was only $2.39 at the Building Center Gloucester MA. I needed two nuts to finish securing the bottom of the frame. I could only get two of them on and I wasn't about to strip another rod so I'll have to wait til I get out of work to get a nut that fits. The nuts must be mixed with different threads. Driving me nuts.
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So here is the rod capped off with an acorn nut, installed. I used one of the original washers from the Performer just before the acorn nut. On the other side I had to cut off about an inch from the rod but now the frame is much more stable. Hopefully I get out of work in time to grab another nut to finish off this part of the project. Next up having my buddy Joe Ciolino tack weld the top part of the frame to the vertical supports on the bottom of the frame.
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Here she sits, uncleaned but with reattached horizontal cross tubes on the bottom of the frame (minus that one damn nut).
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Got that last nut and the base is secure. Can't figure out what this wire rod goes to but it did come in handy this morning. I placed the to[p part of the frame on top of the base to see how it lined up and hooked up the 5lb propane tank to try it out. First ten clicks nothing but I did smell propane. So I stuck the wire rod into the burner tube thinking maybe there was an obstruction, twirling it around a bit. After that, success!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjOvjB3GdzY
Nice job I had one like that that the top tabs all came apart. I have a mig welder so was able to weld the tabs all back together and bolt the top back on. It's always nice to bring a classic SSP back to life
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
While she's with the welder, started cleaning the lid.
Before and afters-
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I have a friend who was crazy for a ss model any color well he found it and got it cheap not as good of shape as yours .
His frame was in about the same shape he bought raw stock square steel tubing and marked it all out made a rough drawing and took it to a metal shop and had it all welded up. As he said a little more in cost but no more water leaks to rust out the frame .
That about seven years ago and it still looks great.
What a nice surprise when I got to the dock this morning.
4:30AM and my buddy the welder dropped off the frame put together.
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He used brackets and I think these are called sheet metal screws to firm it up and then he spray painted over them with black. I had to really look to even notice because it blended in. To A Weber Grillfella it would be obvious if you were focusing your attention at the base of the grill but I don't think 99% of the population would think it was anything but standard. Its really solid with the threaded rod and now the brackets.
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Next to get cleaning, a combination of scotchbrite pads, steel wool, water, dishwashing detergent and elbow grease.
Lots of surface dirt and stains. Most came out.
Before-
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I think I'll pick up a bristled brush to scrub the grey plastic handles. The little grooves are tough to get into to clean.
After-
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x
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x
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That is a beauty.
Look good. Nice job bringing that one back to life.
The ash catcher assembly had a bit of a droop in the back so one of my fishermen had some shark fishing stainless steel 175lb leader wire so we snugged it up tight.
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I may invest in a dremel tool with a buffer attachment and hit the ash catcher with some polish. Anyone have a recommendation for a certain type brand? Sears had some sets for sale.
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She's pretty secure now.
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