A long, long time ago, when a '55 Chevy was only a year or two old, someone somewhere assembled their beautiful, brand-new custom kettle incorrectly. ::)
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l255/vigbert/IMG_2023_zps307a6264.jpg) (http://s98.photobucket.com/user/vigbert/media/IMG_2023_zps307a6264.jpg.html)
57/8 years later, the thumbscrews are rusted in there pretty good.
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l255/vigbert/IMG_2045_zpsb3fd64dc.jpg) (http://s98.photobucket.com/user/vigbert/media/IMG_2045_zpsb3fd64dc.jpg.html)
I would love to be able to wheel my newest, bestest friend around the patio, the backyard...take it for walks through the neighborhood- the usual stuff.
On the other hand, I want to leave it original and/or not fark anything up.
It's an 18.5, so it's easy enough to carry. (Maybe not around the block, though).
What would all y'all do?
Leave it as us & build the kettle it's own custom wagon for excursions.
Man that's in amazing shape for its age......I was gifted a Custom by another member where the thumbscrews were equally as rusted (maybe more so). They eventually came loose with several days of soaking in PB BLaster. I flipped the kettle, routinely applied PB BLaster and let it work its magic. After a couple days, I applied slight pressure to the screws and after several more days, each one broke free leaving the sockets functional. Two words of caution....
1) the PB blaster will darken the finish of the kettle leaving streaks wherever it encounters the battleship grey/black finish. To correct, you either have to wipe down the entire kettle or let it weather away naturally.
2)You do run the risk of twisting off a screw head. I had this happen on another kettle and used a file to square off the bolt, then drilled it out using a small drill bit. Fortunately this worked and a replacement thumbscrew worked beautifully but the thumbscrew socket could just as easily gotten stripped in the process.
Best of luck with whatever you decide.
Personally I don't think I could resist at least trying! The threads on the thumbscrews only appear to have surface rust and are still nice and defined. I bet if you gave them a shot of liquid wrench, soak 30 min, then tap the thumbscrews lightly with a hammer to help shock some of the deep rust lose, re-soak and wait another 30 then using fingers only (no tools) try a little wiggle back and forth and see where your at. If nothing wait a day and repeat.
She'll be catching sticks at the park in no time ;)
Ahh Master G beat me to the punch! This man knows what he's talking about ;)
Yeah, PB blasterr that. I would tape off the area around it to minimize the darkening of the porcelain finish, but some will be unavoidable. Again, sweet custom!
Try a product called "S' ok" ! Trust me it works. I deal with bolts that are in and out of water all the time and have to take them apart. If you can't find that try another product called "Tri flow".
Use the spray of choice, and repeat it for a couple weeks.. Don't even try to turn it.
Then do ti again! Use a small wire brush to remove some rust around the point the screw threads into the socket. Spray again...
I would then get a small propane torch and gently heat the socket to the point that you can't touch it.
The porcelain can handle a fair amount of heat. Apply a small vise grip to the thumbscrew. Slowly turn it.. repeat the heat and spray..
The Key here is patience.. It took 50 years to rust, give it some of that time to release it..
AJ
See my post here.. http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/weber-kettles-accessories/how-to-remove-a-stubborn-one-touch-the-easy-way!/msg103023/#msg103023 (http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/weber-kettles-accessories/how-to-remove-a-stubborn-one-touch-the-easy-way!/msg103023/#msg103023)
This one is highly recommended but I have not tried it.
Kroil Penetrating Oil.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31IPHsEHeAL.jpg)
http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408594718&sr=8-2&keywords=Kroil+Penetrating+Oil. (http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408594718&sr=8-2&keywords=Kroil+Penetrating+Oil.)
So far I haven't encountered this issue. Yet. I will defer to G and AJ and Brian and those who have worked with this. Whatever you decide, I'm sure it will come out fine. As much as Caddywampusness bugs me, this one is pushing 60 and it deserves to be caddywampus if it wants to.. ;) Think of all the birthday parties, Memorial Day cookouts, and fun memories this kettle has seen. As a caddywampus but faithful soldier of fortune.
+1 on letting it soak for a very very very long time before trying to turn it. Are you planning to cook on it? If so, It may be better to try twisting the thumbscrew when the grill is hot. Thermal expansion and what not. Good luck!
Thanks for all the replies/good ideas.
I have some Kroil on hand. I'll probably start w/ that. Maybe by Thanksgiving she'll be walking again. ;)
Worse case scenario, you break it off, end up drilling it out and tap the threads to a slightly larger size and get thumbscrews to fit that new thread.
In fact, I would recommend that if you are successful in getting the thumbscrews out without breaking them, it would be a good idea to find the thread size (I think it's 10-24) and clean up the rusty threads with a tap before installing new thumbscrews.
Quote from: AZ_MIKEY on August 20, 2014, 08:13:58 PM
Try a product called "S' ok" ! Trust me it works. I deal with bolts that are in and out of water all the time and have to take them apart. If you can't find that try another product called "Tri flow".
There's WATER in the desert.....in addition to Galley-Q's ?
Weber thread sizes are all 1/4 x 20. You can find thumb screws at any hardware store.
If you want to make them look old.. Try heating them a bit with the torch.. just a bit..
I highly recommend the torch to help get them out.. Put heat to the socket from the inside.
I have faith it will work.
If you get them out, use a tap to clean up the threads..
When you put it back together, use some anti-seize or at minimum a bit of grease..
Pork Fat is good.. 8)
(http://www.fastenersplus.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/180x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/3/1/31706_1.jpg)
Quote from: 1buckie on August 21, 2014, 05:13:14 AM
Quote from: AZ_MIKEY on August 20, 2014, 08:13:58 PM
Try a product called "S' ok" ! Trust me it works. I deal with bolts that are in and out of water all the time and have to take them apart. If you can't find that try another product called "Tri flow".
There's WATER in the desert.....in addition to Galley-Q's ?
Yes there is some water here.
While I haven't removed thumbscrews on a kettle yet, my job requires me to overhaul water pumps for fire and brush trucks on a regular basis and also water valves. Then add in all the rusted, seized and corroded metal bolts on the engines and frames and I have a had a lot of fun removing them and cussing at them. Torches work as long as they get the metal hot fast and you are heating the outside metal and not the screw portion. Most penetrants are flammable so keep that in mind and some of them actually gel up and harden when heat is added.