Up until now, I've always used less expensive thermometers. I've not worried about replacing the probes when they go bad as it was an inexpensive and to be honest rare thing to do. But today, like others here, I jumped on the deal for the Maverick ET-733 http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/trading-post/maverick-et-733-sale-on-amazon/msg116651/#msg116651 (http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/trading-post/maverick-et-733-sale-on-amazon/msg116651/#msg116651) posted earlier today.
After doing some reading, it seems that a lot of people don't simply run the probe cables between the rim and lid so as not to pinch the cable apparently. They drill out a grommet hole or go in through the vent holes. Going in through the vent holes seems like it would be a pain, in particular with the standard 3' cables. I can drill out the grommet hole easily enough if that's the best solution (any good tips on that if recommended?).
Is pinching the probe cable really a bad thing?
Thanks for the advice and tips.
Yes. Don't pinch. Don't fold. Don't crimp. And don't submerge in water.
I prefer grommet, but will run through the vent on my 26. I also bought the longer probe cables.
I wonder if an extension would work...
I drilled my WSM without a second thought, but could never drill a kettle. I've had some good success lately just draping the probe down through the top vent.
I've seen where people wrap in foil as a buffer right where it goes across the lip.........
Just any old extensions are tricky, as thermocouples are set up in proportion to the length & type of wire in the cable......some kind of inductive capacitance hooey or something..............
Quote from: 1buckie on July 22, 2014, 08:17:37 PM
I've seen where people wrap in foil as a buffer right where it goes across the lip.........
Just any old extensions are tricky, as thermocouples are set up in proportion to the length & type of wire in the cable......some kind of inductive capacitance hooey or something..............
oooh, good point.
I think the maverick uses thermistors, but I guess an extension cable would still throw things off in the resistance department.
Probably best just to buy the longer probes :\
I smoked a but on my kettle and ran the probes through the vent only to find it annoying. For no more than a couple bucks, I decided to drill out a hole to run the probes. I can fit several probes in the hole if they're inserted one at a time. I use a lamp nipple (hollow threaded rod) and some thin nuts. I still need to get an acorn type nut to cap the hole when grilling. Here are some photos: http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/jdefran/library/Weber%20Mod
One of the probes I have is armored. Sometimes I'll use it under the lid. Most of the time I run mine through the bottom vent. I can't bring myself to drill a hole in the kettle. I've thought about it, and at one point found a .750" silicone grommet that self-sealed when not in use.
Chuck - what kind of kettle are you working with?
For my SS Performer, I removed one of the bolts holding the gas assist and routed probes through there:
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/6227dytr80z6iq2/5%20routing.jpg)
For my WSM(s), I always remove one of the support bracket bolts and use some hardware (plumbing isle at Ace) along with a lock collar:
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/wq21osbkzapu77w/IMG_0168.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/7o9czh2j4oj2y31/IMG_0170.jpg)
I have not cracked the code on a regular OTS/OTG, but as long as the kettle is not vintage, would have no problem drilling a hole right below the charcoal grate for a grommet. I would use the same hardware as I have on the WSM above.
Good luck,
Winz
That gives me an idea - I think I'll notch my old damaged lid for use with the probes. The damaged section is right where I'd want the probe wires to come out.
I added a probe grommet to my 26:
http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/weber-kettles-accessories/i-added-a-probe-grommet-to-my-26/msg74552/#msg74552
For probably no good reason, I dont like the notches. Through the vent is a pain. Under the lid is russian roulette. That left grommets. On my WSMs I usually use guru grommets, but for the 26 I used a jack nut or nutsert so that I can screw in a bolt when I am not running a probe in it:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img600/9199/8mb8.jpg)
I've taken brass truck tire valve stems, drilled out the flange and ground them down and use them for probe eyelets on my 22" WSM's, CB Conversion and Drum Smokers.
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t310/swamprb/Ugly%20Drum%20Smoker/Weber/IMG_4386.jpg)
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t310/swamprb/Ugly%20Drum%20Smoker/Weber/IMG_4385.jpg)
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t310/swamprb/Ugly%20Drum%20Smoker/Weber/IMG_4384.jpg)
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t310/swamprb/Ugly%20Drum%20Smoker/IMG_4978.jpg)
I'm not too squeamish about drilling into my cookers to make them more user friendly.
No drilling or mods for me. I've done numerous cooks on the WSM and kettle by simply running the probe cables between the bowl and lid. No issues with my Maverick at all.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This is what Bman did to his WSM. I copied it and works great. I guess this could be applied to a kettle too.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/24/arusumyz.jpg)
Quote from: Peaspurple on July 23, 2014, 01:02:05 PM
This is what Bman did to his WSM. I copied it and works great. I guess this could be applied to a kettle too.
That's what I'm planning on doing, only to my damaged lid. Any tips on cutting the notch?
Quote from: CurtP on July 23, 2014, 02:27:14 PM
Quote from: Peaspurple on July 23, 2014, 01:02:05 PM
This is what Bman did to his WSM. I copied it and works great. I guess this could be applied to a kettle too.
That's what I'm planning on doing, only to my damaged lid. Any tips on cutting the notch?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouhn2aky0uc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouhn2aky0uc)
Winz
Quote from: CurtP on July 23, 2014, 02:27:14 PM
Quote from: Peaspurple on July 23, 2014, 01:02:05 PM
This is what Bman did to his WSM. I copied it and works great. I guess this could be applied to a kettle too.
That's what I'm planning on doing, only to my damaged lid. Any tips on cutting the notch?
Some use a Dremel with a "cut off" wheel.
You have to drop in twice and clean up the bottom of the cut though.
I would use a "peanut grinder" (4-1/2" angle grinder) and a stone of the width that I want the notch.
You would just drop in once and the bottom of the cut would be done as well.
I have often thought about applying the Nomex gasket to the underside of the lid on the kettle and leaving a short gap where I want to run cables. Possible no-notch solution.
Is there a specific paint to use on the exposed metal after making the cut for the probe wires?
For smoking at lower Temps in a kettle, would there be any reason not to run them through the bottom vent? I had them under the lid several times too so far and saw no issues whatsoever. Obviously being very careful when closing the lid. It didn't even seem to leak. I would like to convenience of the bottom vent if it's not a problem. I can't drill into my kettle!
1) Maybe hit it with a little high heat clear to prevent rust starting.....
2) You could do that; the thing I would be concerned about is coals getting smaller & tumbling downward & landing on the wire..................
Quote from: Wirides on July 23, 2014, 06:45:26 PMI can't drill into my kettle!
Drillin's easy !
http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?51120-Therm-Port-for-Pre-2014-WSM&highlight=therm+port
But any threading of the cables is much less convenient as compared to the notch.
On the wish list are 6' cables....