I posted part of this in another thread here, but this is a little more complete...
Parts and Methods
The Weber bezel part number is 63027.
This will lead you to 18.5 WSM but it is currently being used on all units using a 1-3/4" diameter thermometer face.
It is the lower profile, smooth bezel which I prefer over the higher profile, "fluted" bezel used in previous years.
This bezel has a blind tab that keys into an auxiliary hole on production model grills.
The Weber thermometers in turn have a tab that keys into the bezel.
This is great for production, but I'm not going to need this feature so I carefully snapped it off of the bezel.
I wanted to upgrade the thermometer from the Weber offering because of their reputation for inaccuracy and fogging up.
The logical choice for me was the Tel-Tru BQ100 because it has 1-3/4" diameter face and is graduated for grill temps.
This therm has a "grill range" graduation of 150F - 700F, professional-looking face, 2.13" stem length, ±1% accuracy and requires just a 1/4" hole.
Best of all it's a Tel-Tru, arguably the best made bimetal temp gauges in the land.
I placed my new gauge in the OEM location (triangulate 5" +/- from each handle strap).
I used blue tape for layout clarity and drilled an 1/8" hole with a normal high speed drill bit.
Then I used a "step bit" (trade name Uni-Bit) to widen the hole to 1/4".
From there the rest of the install is intuitive.
There is a 1/16" + annular space between the bezel and the gauge.
To hold even spacing and simplify alignment, I used an 1/8" size Zip Tie cut into four pieces.
Spread around the dial at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock, these maintain perfect spacing and unify the two elements for easy alignment on the kettle lid.
Add a SS 1/4" cut (flat) washer to the underside and hand tighten the supplied wing nut.
Do not over-tighten....snug is all that's needed.
I purchased the Tel-Tru BQ100 from bbqeqipmentstore.com and the bezel came from ereplacementparts.com
OEM therm location is about 5" triangulated from each handle strap and it's on the left side as you face the vent
(http://i60.tinypic.com/9tcnlu.jpg)
BQ100 requires just a 1/4" hole which was done with a new 1/8" pilot bit and then a Unibit (step bit) was used to finish the hole.
No need to use center punch...just carefully drill the pilot hole through the blue painter's tape.
I like to mark the Unibit with a Sharpie, just above the diameter that I want.
That way I don't over-bore.
(http://i61.tinypic.com/2rw1e1i.jpg)
Hole is finished and ready for touch-up paint if desired
(http://i58.tinypic.com/juwdph.jpg)
New therm and bezel
(http://i59.tinypic.com/sq0c4l.jpg)
Remove bezel tab
(http://i62.tinypic.com/2exlq2w.jpg)
We will need shims
(http://i61.tinypic.com/2nghson.jpg)
Shims ready
(http://i57.tinypic.com/w6wn5g.jpg)
Shims in place
The Tel Tru leaves about a 1/16" annular space which is controlled by the shims as you tighten the wingnut.
The Weber therm has a tab that keys into the bezel....this speeds assembly at the factory.
(http://i61.tinypic.com/2py44s3.jpg)
Job complete
(http://i60.tinypic.com/wlspxl.jpg)
(http://i60.tinypic.com/15r1ox1.jpg)
Thanks!
I am putting a lid thermometer on my 18" and was thinking about how to center the hole. Now I know for sure!
Great write up and pictures! Thanks :)
Nice job. Thanks for sharing.
Nice detailed write up, thanks!!
Looks perfect! I just may copy that someday.
Thank you for posting this! I was chatting with Mike S a few weeks ago about this mod and he mentioned the older post you referenced.
This looks great. I wonder why Tel-Tru doesn't sell one with a nice bezel like this.
Compared to Tel-Tru, are Weber thermometers crap?
Quote from: teerhardy on June 02, 2014, 04:17:53 AM
Compared to Tel-Tru, are Weber thermometers crap?
I wouldn't say "crap" because you can get a good one.
I have a good one in my WSM that checks out OK against a Maverick.
I have seen bad ones reported that were up to 75 degrees off, but once you know the error (if any) you can note it and live with it.
Quote from: addicted-to-smoke on June 02, 2014, 03:58:35 AM
This looks great. I wonder why Tel-Tru doesn't sell one with a nice bezel like this.
They probably could sell a line of bezels for flat surfaces but maybe they're content with the instrument side of the business.
Bisbee proudly wears a tel-trul based on this exact mod from DirectDrive. Thanks for the great writeup and for including part numbers.
Winz
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/a34jbf6gi290uyk/Trutel.jpg)
You're most welcome, Winz
Bisbee looks great in his Sunday Best !
Looks great Winz. Is that a copper?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk and fat fingers
Quote from: teerhardy on June 03, 2014, 04:59:11 PM
Looks great Winz. Is that a copper?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk and fat fingers
Indeed it is, a copper SS performer conversion.
Winz
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Thank you DirectDrive, here's mine!
I installed it as close to the vent-side as possible on my new Jumbo Joe. I figured for indirect cooks, food would be closer to that. To hell with the thermometer's probe potentially poking into the food.
(http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t378/dgdeckert/DE85FEE7-0D74-4CF0-A1F9-42E20585992D_zpsyuqacvqj.jpg)
(http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t378/dgdeckert/AC8B614B-554A-457F-87E8-C865F3D87F79_zps1oyudear.jpg)
The other mods shown here are a "replacement" lid damper w/ handle (the blk insulating piece) and stainless steel screw holding that on.
Parts ordered to do this to my old Bar-B-Kettle. Thanks for the detail!
This is great info and thanks for the write up but I do have a couple of questions. Is the triangulation still 5" if installing on a 22.5? Also what is the purpose of using the step bit" (trade name Uni-Bit). Can I just use a 1/4 high speed bit? Thanks in advance.
Quote from: JDD on October 02, 2014, 08:51:01 AM
This is great info and thanks for the write up but I do have a couple of questions. Is the triangulation still 5" if installing on a 22.5? Also what is the purpose of using the step bit" (trade name Uni-Bit). Can I just use a 1/4 high speed bit? Thanks in advance.W
I did mine on a 22.5 - I just marked a spot where I thought it would look good, and made sure that spot was equal distant from the two handle supports to ensure it was "centered".
You don't have to use a unibit, but I would recommend starting with a very small bit and working your way up to 1/4. This will minimize the potential for chipping the finish.
Winz