Possible regulator problem on an SS Performer

[mike.stavlund]

I've worked on a few old-school stainless table Performers, but have been fortunate enough to not have to deal with any regulator issues.  I'm thinking that's what I've got on the latest project, and wanted to check with the brain-trust for guidance. 

So the burner tube is all clean, and it lights up with a nice big flame most every time.  Except sometimes it will give only a very weak flame, and sometimes only enough to burn like a little pilot light right at the upstream end of the burner tube.  Then I'll shut down the gas, wait for the flame to go out, try again, and get a perfect big flame again.  The problem persists regardless of which tank I use (both tanks I've tried are full or nearly so). 

Does this sound like a problem with the regulator itself, or perhaps some dirt or debris somewhere in the line?  I'm willing and able to disassemble the lines and fittings, but worried that the regulator itself is something I should not mess with.  But if someone can give me some guidance/confidence, I'm up for anything.  Just a complete n00b when it comes to regulators-- they seem like a big black box to me. 

Thanks in advance for any help!  WKC FTW!

[tattooedant]

it sounds like your regular is on the way out. typically when I see that on a gasser I swap out the entire hose and regulator assembly, and it usually solves the problem. I have a few that are shot and I guess if I were to take them apart, I could clean them up, but for the $25-$30 for a new assembly its makes life easier. Or if you have an old one sitting around that works, you can swap regulators

[HankB]

Check to see if it is burning further up the tube. Mine does this sometimes where it admits air to the tube under the bowl. That results in a small flame at the burner tip.

A tiny flame by itself would not likely remain on the burner end of the tube because the flame front would exceed the speed of the propane/air mix in the tube. I suppose a regulator that is not providing sufficient flow could lead to that too. I would double check for anything that could affect flow of the propane/air mix. If the burner orifices themselves are worn and more open than when new, that could also allow the flame to burn back into the tube.

The regulator is not normally serviceable. If bad you would replace it.

[Jeff]

I had the same problem with one of my ss's. The flame was very weak, and at times the flame was only lit at the point where the gas line goes into the burner tube (like hank described). I put a new reg on and it worked good again. Mike, I'm assuming you made sure the small valve on the regulator is all the way open already?

[mike.stavlund]

Right on, Jeff, that valve works well, and it's been wide open when the flame was real low.  As you and Hank have suggested, the flame sometimes retreats all the way back to the pinhole that feeds the fuel into the mixing area on the burner tube.  A really tiny flame. 

Are you folks suggesting new regulators from Weber?  Or are you finding them as aftermarket parts? 

[Ted B]

I found one at Menard's for around $10. Think others here have done the same. Fittings have to be switched out but no bug deal.

[Troy]

my stainless did this even AFTER i replaced the regulator

in order to get it mine to work:
1. start with all valves closed (tank and valve after regulator)
2. turn gas on
3. open valve after regulator
4. ignite

i believe the problem with mine was the safety feature of the tank. It needs some pressure in the line to open up.

[mike.stavlund]

That's interesting, Troy, because I followed a similar sequencing with the two valves and had similar results.  It still didn't light consistently, though. 

[mike.stavlund]

I wanted to circle back to this thread to report a few things after a helpful call to Weber CS.

1.  Weber does sell a replacement regulator, but it has a modern LP connection instead of the old quick-connect fitting.  This would not be compatible with the older style tank. 

2.  The tech I talked to forwarded me a troubleshooting spec sheet, most of which described problems with dirty burner tubes and dirty ignitors.  But it did have a section that referenced the issue that Troy mentioned.  Apparently, regulators that are getting along in age will tend to 'go into bypass', which means you get a very low flow from them.  The workaround is to shut the needle valve that is downstream of the regulator, then open up the tank valve, then open the aforementioned needle valve and fire 'er up.  I tried it about 10 time and it works reliably.  It's not super-convenient, but it will keep this grill working until the new owner can find a used regulator. 

Thanks to everyone who followed and/or contributed to this thread-- I love the way we can share our knowledge and experience with these old grills. 

[tattooedant]

thanks for the update Mike!

[Weber MD]

thanks for the update Mike!

+1

[salad]

Tried shutting the needle valve technique today when the Performer wouldn't fire.  Still no luck.  Weird.  I got the tank filled prior to using it last so I know it worked after filling the tank.  I couldn't get the tube to light at all.  I'll take it apart to make sure I have spark but I really think gas can't get past the regulator. 

[DirectDrive]

Sometimes the new-style OPD valves in the tank will hang up.
Lay a short 2x on the patio and bump the tank on it (lift slightly and let the tank tap down on the 2x).
Re-connect and re-try.

[salad]

I bumped the tank per above and I also disassembled the gas line at the clip to the metal gas tube and at the tank quick release.  I cleaned the pinhole with a brass brush and put it all together.  I closed the needle valve, opened the tank and waited a few seconds, opened the needle valve and it fired right up. 
I then turned the gas off and then tried to light it again and it wouldn't fire. I couldn't hear any gas flow.  I disconnected at the quick release again and then reconnected it, closed the needle valve, opened the tank and then opened the needle value and I could hear flow and it lit up.  At this point I think it's definitely a wonky regulator.  The tank is full and disconnecting and reconnecting the quick release and pressurizing the line seems to fix it.  I can just buy the Mr Heater regulator and then install the quick release fitting and the rubber hose, right?

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-Propane-Pressue-Regulator/dp/B000BQUQEI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1361665260&sr=8-1&keywords=mr%20heater%20propane%20low%20pressure%20regulator%20f276136&tag=vglnkc5619-20''
 

[browntown]

My ss performer also was being problematic and I'm guessing it is the regulator.  Seemed like a good time to change to throw away canister size too since I'm waiting for the gas station guy to notice my tank is out of hydro.  Sadly those small 11# tanks that came on the ss version cost double the bigger, normal size bbq propane tank(20#?).

I bought a little gas go anywhere on clearance, and plan to retrofit the burner tube and regulator with some hose to make a new gas setup for my ss performer.

I lost my bookmark, but there is a post somewhere on one of the usual forums tvwbb, bbqbrethern, here, etc where a guy did something like that by running a genesis burner tube all the way across under the charcoal grate, and I "think" attaching it where the bottom of the lid holder attaches.  It almost looks like it will work, but the weather has slowed my progress. so I can't confirm yet.


The easiest thing to do though would to be buy the new assembly
http://webgrillparts.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=106&category_id=85&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=335&vmcchk=1&Itemid=335