Electric start on Performer ss conversion

[ClubChapin]

it should be called the "gniter mod".

LOL.  You can actually slide it a little to expose the "I".

Although "gniter" is pretty good.  Took me a minute to see it.

Here it is slid over:

[ClubChapin]

An update to this.  I was always annoyed by how the flange on the button didn't work with the control panel.  I figured out that I could cut the flange off and scree the button onto the switch.  This turned out really nice and now the button does not interfere at all with the control panel, which now comes on and off really nicely.


The rubber part of the button fills the button hole in the control panel nicely.

[mike.stavlund]

@ClubChapin thanks for sharing this cool mod.  I am now officially rooting for the failure of my current ignitor so that I can make this upgrade.

[addicted-to-smoke]

I finally got around to doing this, only 3.5 years later!

I took a few pix in case anyone curious about this mod needed to see just how easy this is. It’s practically a “bolt on.”

I know several of you have done this in the intervening years, with locating the button/module to a side panel. For this grill, I wanted my gas and ignition both reached in from the top, as Weber designed it.

Exposing the naughty bits:




The piezo button unscrews from the bottom. The nut is metal but very thin. Expect it to deform. Also, you won’t need to completely remove it or even unscrew it much. Slide to the side.




Three things here:
1) The module fits like a glove under the metal support. It’s the perfect size under the support plate and the charcoal bin will still fit.

2) Pete secured his to the control panel and I suppose that’s what made the button ride high? I secured the module to the support directly, with the button outside (on top of) the control panel. My SS door doesn’t seem to hit it. So I didn’t trim anything. And the button still has enough travel to make the necessary electrical contact to complete the circuit.

Note: The plastic nut the module comes with is weak and will “strip” when (easily) overtightened. Just get it tight enough to stay and it should be good to go.

3) You’ll need to use a 1/8” female terminal end for the black wire.

[Jules V.]

What took so long?  It's a 2 minute upgrade [emoji3]

[addicted-to-smoke]

... aye, but I move very slowly in matters that involve my "original box of lights" and daily cooker!

[ClubChapin]

2) Pete secured his to the control panel and I suppose that’s what made the button ride high? I secured the module to the support directly, with the button outside (on top of) the control panel. My SS door doesn’t seem to hit it. So I didn’t trim anything. And the button still has enough travel to make the necessary electrical contact to complete the circuit.

On mine, it is secured to the frame the same.  It’s the button with the silver trim that sat on top of the control panel.  The thread on the button barely engaged with the switch.  I needed to cut off the silver nut flange so the whole assembly fits better and feels solid.


Now, I don’t need to remove the button to lift the control panel. 

Not sure if the hole on my CP is smaller or if maybe my CP is higher.

The hole on my CP is the exact same size as the silicone part of the button.


Under the table is the correct location for the ingniter. 

[addicted-to-smoke]

Roger that. I mistook one of your pics showing the igniter assembly without the control panel to mean why you had trimmed the button. (I so rarely remove my CP that I don’t mind unscrewing/removing the button.)