1958 Custom Kettle

[cbpeck]

Re: leg screw, I would remove the rust and clean up the legs, then I would fill 2" of the leg at the screw hole with epoxy. Drill a hole through the epoxy for the screw and it should be a solid but invisible repair for decades to come.

[Rub]

I just sent you a FB link on something to fix that leg.


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[Cellar2ful]

Got the lid cleaned, both inside and outside.






As you can see, the porcelain was showing signs of fading with the salt and pepper look.




Having seen photos of members applying Pam to faded black kettles, bringing back the black color, I thought why not try it on this Custom. Once I cleaned all the rust areas, I applied Pam to a small test area.  Wow! I was impressed to say the least.  It not only brought back the black color but enhanced the yellow/green splatter. 



In the sunlight, the splatter really pops. 



Guess I got excited when I saw the Pam results as at this point I realized I hadn't cleaned the lid vent or beneath it.



I'm not going to polish the lid vent.  I think it looks more original with the #0000 steel wool finish.





@Rub - I got the video you sent me.  Until I read your post here, I could't connect the dots. (lol) I will see if any of my local welding shops know of that method. Thanks.

[dazzo]

Looking good

Makes me want to break out my yellow paint

[emoji6]

Anyway, FWIW, I used a dowel in the leg to screw into for my pan tab

[Darko]

That looks great Jim.

[PotsieWeber]

Beautiful

[greenweb]

Fantastic clean up!  I agree with you on not polishing the lid vent.

[Erictag]

Looking good Jim!!


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[Cellar2ful]

The bowl vents had 60 years of hard, baked on crud.  I tried using steel wool and all it did was shred it.




3M makes a product called Sandblaster - Ultra Flexible Sheets. The sheets are smaller, really flexible and can actually be folded for use and will return flat without creasing. I find they work perfectly on lid and bowl vents and last a lot longer than standard paper sandpaper.  I used 100 grit to get off the crud, then stepped up to 220 for a finishing sanding. I  finished using #0000 steel wool, buffing in a circular motion.  Also, once I removed all the rust on the bowl, I applied a coat of Pam.   




The Pam trick really brought this thing back to life.  Because I still have not been able to break the legs free from the bowl, I had to razor scrap the rust off the legs, then finish with steel wool.   

           

Picked up some PB Blaster today and will see if it can loosen both the wheels from the axle and the legs from the bowls. 

[Darko]

You did a great job there Jim. I'm amazed at the before and after pics.

[Mr.CPHo]

Wow, Jim, that is a beautiful kettle!  The Pam trick really made the colors pop.


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[1spacemanspiff]

nicely done, that kettlle is badass

[Kneab]

That looks great Jim.

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[Lowbrass]

Looking awesome Jim!  You really brought this back to life!  Keep the updates on the legs coming!


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[Cellar2ful]

Gen 1 1956 on right. Gen 2 1958 on left

Is it just me or is there red starting to show on these wheels?  The more PB Blaster I spray on the axle and wipe off the excess on the wheels, the more it appears there is red paint below the rust.