SS Performer Questions

[nandemo1]

Yesterday I picked up this grill, it's a 2004.  The bowl exterior and the SS are in great shape.  The frame is pretty good except for the wear points for the shelf and the tool hooks.  I started cleaning the exterior today and will probably work inside the bowl and under the table during the week.  There are a few trouble spots I need to work on but have a few questions.  All help is very much appreciated.

1) FRAME TUBE CAPS: What color are these supposed to be and where can I find them?  I have 2 grey on the kettle side, and 1 black on the stainess side - one is awol.  I'd prefer black all around.  Also, the tubes on the axle side do not have them at the bottom, is this normal?

2) CASTERS:  One doesn't turn at all and the other is almost as useless.  I may replace them, I may not, but are these the 6414 I see on Amazon?

3) AXLE:  About 1/3 is covered in rust.  I'm thinking of removing it, working it over with steel wool, and then spraying it with black Rustoleum to prevent future issues.  I haven't taken a close look, but are the wheels difficult to get off?

4) FRAME SCREWS: The bar under the bowl (the one the shelf hangs onto) has two bolts that connect to the long bars.  One of the bolts is partially out and the long bar on that side is a little loose, but when I turn it with a wrench it just spins in place.  Any tips?

5) IGNITER:  Has anybody put together a troubleshooting guide for this system?  I am pretty sure I heard a hiss as I turned the valve on the tank, so I believe there's gas in it.  If it helps, the seller said it was being tempermental for a while and then crapped out altogether.

[pbe gummi bear]

Yesterday I picked up this grill, it's a 2004.  The bowl exterior and the SS are in great shape.  The frame is pretty good except for the wear points for the shelf and the tool hooks.  I started cleaning the exterior today and will probably work inside the bowl and under the table during the week.  There are a few trouble spots I need to work on but have a few questions.  All help is very much appreciated.

1) FRAME TUBE CAPS: What color are these supposed to be and where can I find them?  I have 2 grey on the kettle side, and 1 black on the stainess side - one is awol.  I'd prefer black all around.  Also, the tubes on the axle side do not have them at the bottom, is this normal?

2) CASTERS:  One doesn't turn at all and the other is almost as useless.  I may replace them, I may not, but are these the 6414 I see on Amazon?

3) AXLE:  About 1/3 is covered in rust.  I'm thinking of removing it, working it over with steel wool, and then spraying it with black Rustoleum to prevent future issues.  I haven't taken a close look, but are the wheels difficult to get off?

4) FRAME SCREWS: The bar under the bowl (the one the shelf hangs onto) has two bolts that connect to the long bars.  One of the bolts is partially out and the long bar on that side is a little loose, but when I turn it with a wrench it just spins in place.  Any tips?

5) IGNITER:  Has anybody put together a troubleshooting guide for this system?  I am pretty sure I heard a hiss as I turned the valve on the tank, so I believe there's gas in it.  If it helps, the seller said it was being tempermental for a while and then crapped out altogether.

Most of the parts you need are available in a normal hardware store:

1- I've only seen them in Grey, but I prefer them in black. You'll need 1 1/4 square tube caps/plugs like this: http://www.amazon.com/Square-Tubing-Plugs-Black-Package/dp/B002RRUKY0 Your hardware store will have these. Bring the original to compare.

2- You are correct, the casters are 6414. The insert is not shown on the amazon link but they look like this:



The casters are kinda useless imo. Unless you move your grill alot or just want it to look better, I wouldn't bother. jmo.

3- The axle is super easy to remove. Just pop the hubcaps off with a pliers or screwdriver. There's a good chance you'll deform them in doing so so get some replacement 5/16" push nuts with cap. The hardware store usually has a red, white, and black version but ymmv.

4- It's hard to say exactly what going on but the star nuts inside the frame rusts frequently. I would undo the tube and scope it out. Check this thread for more info:

Star nuts and support tube info: http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/weber-kettles-accessories/performer-frame-question/ (the short version, go to a friendly bike shop.)

5- From my SS performer thread:

Touch N' Go Gas assist repair

Sorry no pics here right now, but here is what I did to fix my igniter.

First I made sure that the there was still propane. I could feel the liquid in the tank, hear it when opened, and use a match to light the burner tube. But my igniter didn't work.

Here is my igniter fixing flowchart:

0. Make sure the igniter button isnt wet.

1. Is there liquid propane still in tank? Shake it lightly and feel for it.

2. Connect all the lines.

3. Are you getting good propane flow through the tube, and regulator? Open the valve on the tank. you should be able to hear the tank hissing when you open it and smell the propane. DO NOT STICK YOUR HEAD IN THE BOWL. If you don't hear the hissing or smell, close the valve. There is another brass valve parallel to the regulator hose. Make sure that little valve handle is open (pointing parallel to or along the hose). If you don't here hissing still your regulator is probably shot.

4. Try to ignite the flame with the igniter push button or a match. If the igniter button works, great! But it probably won't. If the match works you can skip the tube cleaning step 5,  but it is still useful.

5. Clean the burner tube. To begin fixing the gas assist pop off the clip at the end of the igniter tube. Removing this tube by taking off the igniter ground wire / element and loosening the tube clamp with a slotted screwdriver or wrench will make this a hell of alot easier. You dont need to remove the clamp. Just loosen it and pull the tube into the bowl. You can't pull the tube out without completely taking off the clamp because of the flat end that is wider. Look inside the tube. Chances are there will be ashcrud and cobwebs in it. Clean this all out with water. You can also use sandpaper on the tube to make it nice and shinier again.

6. Test the igniter.

Update: 5/2/14 with the igniter still assembled to the tube, push the igniter while peeking through the propane orifice side. If it's good you should see a spark. You might be able to do this while the burner is still on the cart but remove it if you need the space. If it's good, move to #7. If not, try the fix below.


Alternative way to test the igniter: Hold the igniter wires in one hand and push the buttton with the other. IT SHOULD LIGHTLY SHOCK YOU like static on a doorknob so if you easily yell expletives make sure there are no kids around. If it didn't shock you, your piezo is dead so buy a new igniter. If it shocked you, we can fix it!

Fixing igniter: Take some sand paper and lightly sand the igniter tip until it's clean bare metal. It's pretty stout but be careful not to break it. Also make sure that the ground wire and bolt is not excessively rusty or you may not get a good connection. Mine was moderately rusty but it still worked.

7. Reassemble and retest. Everything should work now. If not, sell your performer and buy a big green egg.

[nandemo1]

Awesome!  I know what I'll be doing this week now!

[Heyjude]

1) FRAME TUBE CAPS: What color are these supposed to be and where can I find them?  I have 2 grey on the kettle side, and 1 black on the stainess side - one is awol.  I'd prefer black all around.  Also, the tubes on the axle side do not have them at the bottom, is this normal?

Weber did install 2 grey and 2 black, Not sure why. They are easy to find in black. 1" square tube caps..

2) CASTERS:  One doesn't turn at all and the other is almost as useless.  I may replace them, I may not, but are these the 6414 I see on Amazon?

Check Home Depot for a 2 pack of casters.  l
A lot cheaper.

3) AXLE:  About 1/3 is covered in rust.  I'm thinking of removing it, working it over with steel wool, and then spraying it with black Rustoleum to prevent future issues.  I haven't taken a close look, but are the wheels difficult to get off?

Yeah, just pop of the axle caps and you are good to go. Buy new caps at the hardware store. Usually in the specialty bin section. I forget the size.

4) FRAME SCREWS: The bar under the bowl (the one the shelf hangs onto) has two bolts that connect to the long bars.  One of the bolts is partially out and the long bar on that side is a little loose, but when I turn it with a wrench it just spins in place.  Any tips?

5) IGNITER:  Has anybody put together a troubleshooting guide for this system?  I am pretty sure I heard a hiss as I turned the valve on the tank, so I believe there's gas in it.  If it helps, the seller said it was being tempermental for a while and then crapped out altogether.

So, if you can easily remove the tube from the bowl. I say easily, as the bolts are probably corroded beyond an easy removal. If it comes off, take it apart, blow out any spider webs. There is a small screw that hold the igniter tip in the tube. Again, if it comes out easily, use a piece of emery cloth and clean up the connection, the wire tends to corrode and you get a bad ground. (No spark)
While you're at it, polish up the burner tube with some 0000 steel wool or the emery cloth works too.
Just take your time and be careful, should be an easy project!

AJ 

[addicted-to-smoke]

5) IGNITER:  Has anybody put together a troubleshooting guide for this system?  I am pretty sure I heard a hiss as I turned the valve on the tank, so I believe there's gas in it.  If it helps, the seller said it was being tempermental for a while and then crapped out altogether.

So, yeah, you've got a ground wire that might be iffy or the igniter itself could be bad.

For gas flow, the burner tube is easily removed from the hose by pulling the C-clip with pliers. That brass connection has a tiny orifice. Clean it out with a bread tie wire. The hiss you're hearing could be a gas leak, My regulator leaked; on this model you may not be able to determine that without removing the regulator from the frame. Sometimes you can hear gas flowing from the sound the bowl makes as it amplifies; anything heard nearer to the tank/regulator, especially a hiss is probably a leak.

Bottom line, it's all easily fixable but you might spend $15 on a regulator, $15 or whatever on an igniter.

[ClubChapin]

1) FRAME TUBE CAPS: What color are these supposed to be and where can I find them?  I have 2 grey on the kettle side, and 1 black on the stainess side - one is awol.  I'd prefer black all around.  Also, the tubes on the axle side do not have them at the bottom, is this normal?

Weber did install 2 grey and 2 black, Not sure why. They are easy to find in black. 1" square tube caps..

The grey are "High Temp".  Presumably, the black ones could melt if used in the kettle end.  Not sure if this would really happen or not.

4086928 Tubing plug, black
86291 Tubing plug, grey, high temperatures

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/tubing-plug-grey-p-1477470.html?osCsid=m7emj1n65smqdcn701pq5gq863
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/tubing-plug-black-p-1475739.html?osCsid=m7emj1n65smqdcn701pq5gq863