Weber Kettle Club Forums
Grill Talk => Introduce Yourself => Topic started by: zumbini on July 03, 2020, 12:12:06 PM
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Howdy folks! I've been around Weber charcoal grills since the early 60's but have never seen one like this early 70's light grey 26+" kettle that was recently given to me by a relative. It needs some parts (and a lot of TLC) but I can't find anything like it on the Weber website and they have yet to respond to my request for info. Perhaps one of you can ID it for me so I can get the parts I need to put it back to work.
Thanks in advance for your assistance,
Dominick
Here are some photos:
(https://img250.imagetwist.com/th/36003/7x0796jxrr9l.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/7x0796jxrr9l/20200623_103913.jpg)
(https://img250.imagetwist.com/th/36003/k3mzrc06sqhi.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/k3mzrc06sqhi/20200623_131628.jpg)
(https://img250.imagetwist.com/th/36003/bjdztez75sy0.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/bjdztez75sy0/20200623_131551_Burst01.jpg)
(https://img250.imagetwist.com/th/36003/q8g490xi9r6v.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/q8g490xi9r6v/20200623_103833_Burst01.jpg)
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Hello and welcome. You’ve been gifted a lovely Fleetwood. Unlikely Weber will have the parts you need due to age. Fortunately you’ve come to the right place. More pics please, let’s see what you need.
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Almost forgot the intro...
I'm a post WW2 baby who was born in Philadelphia and raised/schooled in the near west Chicago suburbs.
After 2 years at IIT I did a 4 year hitch in the army, the last 3+ years with Test Construction Division, Field Command, Defense Nuclear Agency (my duty station was Camp Mercury on the AEC's Nevada Test Site).
In the early 60's I learned to grill on my Dad's black 22" Weber kettle. (My youngest brother inherited it after Dad passed away in 2001.)
In the early 80's I bought a black 22" Weber kettle of my own which I still have and use regularly.
For the last 20 years I've lived in Chester, VA (just south of Richmond) but am currently staying at my familial home in Chicago in the process of settling my Mom's estate.
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Hello and welcome. You’ve been gifted a lovely Fleetwood. Unlikely Weber will have the parts you need due to age. Fortunately you’ve come to the right place. More pics please, let’s see what you need.
Thanks for your quick response. Fleetwood eh? Was I right about it being from the early 70's?
Bottom line is that I need a bottom (charcoal) grill (the original was so rusty that it fell apart when I tried to clean it). Measuring across the support tabs I get 19" circumference.
I also need a new top grate as the original is almost rusted out (24 3/4" circumference).
Eventually I'd like to replace the missing kettle handle and make new wood grips for the top handle.
And I'm still working to free up the 3 bottom vents (I can see clear space all around now but the rivets must be rusted to the kettle).
I'll post a few more pics shortly.
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Welcome to the Forum. As indicated above by Mr. CPHo, what you have is a vintage 26" Weber. Yours is quite a Weathered Warrior (a term given to kettles with a patina from years of being exposed to the elements). Your kettle was originally black and was given the name "The Fleetwood" by Weber for marketing purposes. With it having plastic wheels with rubber treads will probably date it as being around 1970-1972. It is depicted on page 5 of this 1970 Weber catalog:
http://weberkettleclub.com/weber-catalogs/1971-Charcoal-Brochure.pdf
I don't see a charcoal grate in any of your photos. The current model 26" charcoal and cooking grates will not fit your kettle. Vintage 26" kettles use a different size cooking and charcoal grate. Here are the part numbers for vintage 26" kettles that will fit yours:
cooking grate - #66910 (24.5”)
charcoal grate #66911
Weber does still carry both of these items (last I checked). If you attempt to order them, your biggest obstacle will be getting through to Weber Customer Service. They are still ramping up during the current Covid-19 crisis restrictions.
You can post a "looking for bowl vents" add in the Trading Post section of the Forum. That or find a inexpensive vintage kettle for sale on CL to use as a parts donor. The 26" kettles use the same size bowl vents and metal handles as a 22" kettle.
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Thanks for the info Cellar2ful (great name BTW!). I'll post a few more photos shortly. A couple more questions if you don't mind.
The catalog you posted the link to has 2 page 8's and no page 5.
I searched for "The Fleetwood" on the Weber website and got nothing, nada, zero, zilch.
I tried to search for parts but that function requires a model/serial number (1 or 2 capital letters plus 0 to 6 numbers). The only ID stamped on my upper vent is "Pat Pending".
I searched on the part numbers you supplied and was taken to the page that explains where to find the model/serial number.
Reminds me of my Dad's favorite saying - "useless as t1ts on a bulls a$$".
Are we having fun yet?
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The link works for me, but I work off a desktop PC. If you go to the WKC Home Page, on the right side is a drop down menu with different links. Under the Weber Grill History section, the second link is for Old Weber Catalogs.
You won't find any information via Weber's website on vintage kettles or parts for them. The part numbers I provided were provided by other grillfellas that were lucky enough to speak with a knowledgeable CS rep. I keep a spread sheet with part numbers for a lot of vintage parts. Only way your going to be able to order the parts is by calling Weber Customer Service (800-446-1071). Start early, be patient and have another project to work on while on hold. The last two times I've recently called I was on hold for 1 1/2 hours waiting for a "live" person to come on the line.
The Cellar2ful name comes from another one of my passions. Wine collecting.
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I tried your link again and this time page 5 appeared. THANKS! Must be my connection....
p.s. Another thing I'll need is an ash collector. Does one size fit all or do I need one specific for the Fleetwood?
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@Jeff or @bertl, will there be another run of reproduction ash pans in the future?🤞If I remember they sold out rather quickly.
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Here are a few more photos for you. Looks like restoration is gonna be a major project....
interior
(https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36040/wd1mwtpnze01.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/wd1mwtpnze01/Weber_26___Fleetwood_Kettle_interior_20200703_161556.jpg)
missing handle
(https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36040/fmo9903qe8xz.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/fmo9903qe8xz/Weber_26___Fleetwood_Kettle_side_view_of_missing_handle_20200703_161810.jpg)
top grate
(https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36040/mt3xpusk940c.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/mt3xpusk940c/Weber_26___Fleetwood_Kettle_top_grate_20200703_161328.jpg)
(https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36040/xi5mmfav59hl.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/xi5mmfav59hl/Weber_26___Fleetwood_Kettle_top_grate_20200703_161504.jpg)
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Welcome from just south of Chicago! I love the character of this grill, and I think the Fleetwood is my holy grail. Looking forward to the progress of your restore. Good luck and have fun.
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Welcome from Doraville,Ga I am positive that Fleetwood will be cooking soon
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Any tips on how to free up the bottom vents? I used a thin paint scraper to remove the dirt and rust between the vent and kettle. I can now see clear to the rivet but they still won't turn.
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I use a product called PB Blaster. The only thing is with a kettle like yours that the porcelain is so faded, it becomes somewhat porous to oils. Using lubricating sprays can leave stains on the porcelain. You can either tape off the porcelain all around the vent or don’t spray the PB Blaster on the vent. Instead, spay it into a small bottle or container and apply it with a Q tip. Apply to both the outside and inside of the rivet. Let it sit for at least a day, giving it a couple of applications. After a day of sitting, lightly tap the vent tab with a small hammer or screwdriver handle. Alternate the direction of the tapping. This method has worked for me and I have yet to find a vent that has not responded to this method.
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(http://pics.weberkettleclub.com/images/2017/08/03/2620Black20Fleetwood20with20Roti20Before20and20After201_zpstp8b7kdf1.md.jpg) (http://pics.weberkettleclub.com/image/W9r)
This is my Fleetwood. Charcoal Grate hard to come by. I cut expanded metal to make one. Works Good! Old Guy here too!
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Welcome to the club!
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I use a product called PB Blaster. The only thing is with a kettle like yours that the porcelain is so faded, it becomes somewhat porous to oils. Using lubricating sprays can leave stains on the porcelain. You can either tape off the porcelain all around the vent or don’t spray the PB Blaster on the vent. Instead, spay it into a small bottle or container and apply it with a Q tip. Apply to both the outside and inside of the rivet. Let it sit for at least a day, giving it a couple of applications. After a day of sitting, lightly tap the vent tab with a small hammer or screwdriver handle. Alternate the direction of the tapping. This method has worked for me and I have yet to find a vent that has not responded to this method.
Excellent tip Cellar2ful. I applied penetrating oil sparingly to the rivets with a q-tip. After 24 hours, I tapped on the rivets lightly until they broke free. They are spinning like a top now. THANKS!
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Glad the trick worked for you @zumbini . When you get your grill back together, add photos of it to this thread of Weathered Warriors. Yours has a great patina, earned by many years of exposure to the elements. It deserves to be in the thread.
http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/index.php?topic=28339.msg278866#msg278866
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It's been 10 days, 2 messages and 3 calls to customer service with requests for call-backs and still no response from Weber. I understand this is their busy season but that seems excessive...
Meanwhile I've been working to refurbish my Fleetwood. So far I have scraped out and steel-wooled the interior of the bowl (before and after)
(https://img202.imagetwist.com/th/36204/wbf8g6sioq8g.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/wbf8g6sioq8g/bowl__inside__20200703_161556.jpg) (https://img202.imagetwist.com/th/36204/pytqcltbwhe7.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/pytqcltbwhe7/bowl__inside__20200711_091456_HDR.jpg)
and lid (sorry, no before pix...)
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36204/l2dez5aveja2.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/l2dez5aveja2/lid__inside__cleaned__20200715_134910_HDR.jpg)
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36204/4bcxzyyd207q.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/4bcxzyyd207q/lid__inside__cleaned__20200715_134944_HDR.jpg)
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36204/ijmj9b2wqc5t.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/ijmj9b2wqc5t/lid__inside__cleaned__20200715_134958_HDR.jpg)
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36204/f9a2ho3fr56j.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/f9a2ho3fr56j/lid__inside__cleaned__20200715_135011_HDR.jpg)
and cleaned and steel-wooled the lid exterior (before and after).
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36204/rmnfrz5m2lzu.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/rmnfrz5m2lzu/top_90_20200711_091312.jpg) (https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36204/nlw8v8w3cewp.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/nlw8v8w3cewp/top_90_20200714_190157.jpg)
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36204/fcnogl0mjd2d.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/fcnogl0mjd2d/top_180_20200711_091330.jpg) (https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36204/ylg3u1cpviib.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/ylg3u1cpviib/top_180_20200714_190249.jpg)
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36204/f6w0vtlodvhm.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/f6w0vtlodvhm/top_270_20200623_103913.jpg) (https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36204/plnl25ram74d.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/plnl25ram74d/top_270_20200711_091343.jpg)
At this point my plan (subject to revision) is to neutralize the interior rust with naval jelly then prime and paint with gloss or semi-gloss black rustoleum.
I think the best option for the exterior is to remove as much surface rust as possible, buff the heck out of it, then clear-coat to preserve the character.
Wadja think?
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I vote to keep it the way it is.
Keep it clean and dry, maybe some oil to prevent further rust on the bad spots, but it's beauty is in the patina.
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I would not recommend painting the interior of the grill. I’d keep it dry and oil the spots that’s have lost porcelain. The high heat paint may burn off and I doubt you want that on your food.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Welcome from Louisiana and thank you for your service.
Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
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Welcome!! I agree with Michael, no paint on this. Over time, you will not be happy with the results. Heat and canola oil on the inside should keep the rust at bay IME.
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Thanks y'all for warning me against painting the interior. For the time being I'll stick to cleaning and oiling the interior. Long term I'll look into a "food safe" option like a porcelain/vitreous enamel coating.
As for the exterior, I found an automotive engine clear coat rated to 2000 deg F that I'll test on a random piece of steel and bake for as long as I can keep the fire stoked. https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-260771-11-Ounce-Degrees/dp/B006ZLQ0JI/ref=sr_1_3
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There is a wealth of knowledge here and I have seen members here bring kettles back into working condition that I would have never imagined being functional again. Leg sockets gone, handles missing, holes big enough for golf balls, hell one bowl was so bad that they literally cut and welded a donor bowl inside of the rescue kettles bowl to make it functional. By the way welding should be a last resort in repair. Often stainless steel bolts, nuts, and washers is better for reattaching handles, leg sockets, and etc to a kettle. Just wanted to throw that out there since I know you have a handle missing.
One trap I fell into last summer when I dived deep into this world is sometimes you just have to accept a kettle for what it is to some extent. My first vintage find was an 18" yachtsman seen here: http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/index.php?topic=42774.msg424218#msg424218
I was determined to bring this kettle back to as near perfect as I could and I made a lot of progress. After sitting for probably decades outside and being abused it shines a bright yellow again. Now you might understand why I am a HUGE advocate for never using paint unless it is just spot treating a black kettle (its a B to remove when it eventually goes bad). But sometimes obsessing over perfection can actually bring more trouble than good. I managed to remove a lot of the rust by using evaporust and cleaning tools, but eventually had to just accept that if I tried to do more I was going to compromise more porcelain and maybe even the strength of the leg sockets. So I had to just let go of perfection, oil it up, and apply heat. I still need to do some sanding and polishing of the legs and ash pan, but life hasn't been kind with my time and energy.
So check out some of the restoration guides on the main WKC page, use the search feature on the forum, and if you aren't quite sure about a method of restoration make a post to ask. You will more than likely get several replies from people that have seen the same situation you are in and can give you the positives and more importantly the negatives to your situation. Nine times out of ten they will actually present you with the best solution. Good luck!
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Time for an update on my Fleetwood project.
I removed the legs, wheels and triangle but broke one of the wheel bushing in the process. Ordered some 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID brass and stainless steel pipe to make new bushings.
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36291/ljl4co60hvr4.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/ljl4co60hvr4/legs_and_wheels_20200718_160409_Burst01.jpg)
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36291/somqd0wcvzio.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/somqd0wcvzio/wheel_bushings_20200718_160355.jpg)
Also managed to break off the one remaining all steel bowl handle (it was hanging by a thread so it wouldn't have lasted long anyway).
(https://img250.imagetwist.com/th/36291/cyx02s0fplri.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/cyx02s0fplri/bowl_handle__metal__broken__20200718_151834.jpg)
I found some handles that are similar to the original but they only come in zinc plated, stainless and black (powder coated).
(https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36291/b1qvjryzhwvp.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/b1qvjryzhwvp/door_pull.jpg)
Another option would be to buy some 1/8" x 5/8" flat stock and fab handles like the one on the lid. I would appreciate member feedback on which option to pursue and why.
(https://img250.imagetwist.com/th/36291/niiwp6mwdr3s.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/niiwp6mwdr3s/20200711_091032.jpg)
Finally I spent considerable time working on the lid. Here it is after several hours of polishing with steel wool.
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36292/bdzmmbynh8uy.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/bdzmmbynh8uy/top_180_20200714_190249.jpg)
This was taken after I etched it 3 times with Krud Kutter Rust Remover and Inhibiter.
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36292/j3jfewl0kl9u.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/j3jfewl0kl9u/top_180_20200720_160502.jpg)
And here it is after I rubbed it down with canola oil per some of your suggestions.
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36292/mvuxh1jo03v4.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/mvuxh1jo03v4/top_180__oiled__20200720_164152.jpg)
I like the results but probably should have stopped after the 2nd etch and left a little more rust showing.
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Your kicking ass, it's your grill go for it
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
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Almost forgot.
Saturday afternoon I received a call-back from Weber customer service (I had called at least 3 times and requested call-backs after waiting on hold for up to an hour). Weber had Fleetwood size grates in stock (cooking grate, 24.75" dia, p/n 66910, $69; charcoal grate, 19.5" dia, p/n 66911, $45). I ordered both and should have them by the weekend. Many thanks to @Cellar2ful for the part numbers!
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I would place a "Wanted - 2 metal bowl handles" add in the Members Sales and Trades section. The 22" and 26" use the same size MBH's. Someone's got to have an old rotted out MBH bowl sitting in their yard. The 26" uses the same size handle as the 22" kettle BTW.
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I would place a "Wanted - 2 metal bowl handles" add in the Members Sales and Trades section. The 22" and 26" use the same size MBH's. Someone's got to have an old rotted out MBH bowl sitting in their yard. The 26" uses the same size handle as the 22" kettle BTW.
I do like the look and feel of the original handles and my initial plan was to try to find some. (I actually listed metal bowl handles in a trade request I posted last week http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/index.php?topic=46090.0 (http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/index.php?topic=46090.0).)
(https://img250.imagetwist.com/th/36308/yjpw2pzxstjk.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/yjpw2pzxstjk/bowl_handle__metal__broken__20200718_151824.jpg)
However, after my "good" handle broke off I realized that they are not solid but rather stamped from thin (24 ga?) sheet metal and rolled into shape. The ends are flattened into tabs about 1/16" thick x 3/8" wide x 1/2" long that are then spot welded welded to the bowl.
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36308/v396i2ezmqoz.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/v396i2ezmqoz/bowl_handle__metal__broken__20200721_152159_HDR.jpg)
When I tried to remove what was left of the tabs from the bowl one practically fell off but the other refused to budge and had to be ground off.
(https://img250.imagetwist.com/th/36308/a7wg38epbu48.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/a7wg38epbu48/20200718_162102_HDR.jpg)
The only way I see to salvage old handles from a donor kettle is to cut them out of the bowl leaving some of the bowl attached to the tabs. Then grind the tabs into a shape that can be welded (tricky without a spot welder and way beyond my journeyman skills) or drilled and bolted. Is that how you've seen it done?
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Yesterday I removed the bowl vents to make it easier to work on the kettle. While I had the vents off I scrubbed them down with a brass brush and soapy water, then polished them with steel wool. They look a lot better but cleaning did expose severe pitting on one of the vents. Tomorrow I'm going to test out a marine grade aluminum cleaner on the inside of one of them.
Before
(https://img250.imagetwist.com/th/36310/j3sh7xz2sr3r.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/j3sh7xz2sr3r/20200718_141217.jpg)
After
(https://img250.imagetwist.com/th/36310/ol0tc0fe6lip.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/ol0tc0fe6lip/vent__bowl_20200721_123852.jpg)
Pitting
(https://img250.imagetwist.com/th/36310/j67avk8jzpby.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/j67avk8jzpby/vent__bowl_20200721_123831.jpg)
I also worked on the leg triangle. Just need to polish it a bit more.
Before
(https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36310/qkamduf96xos.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/qkamduf96xos/legs_and_wheels_20200718_160409_Burst01.jpg)
After
(https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36310/02pnfhhg7jcr.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/02pnfhhg7jcr/triangle_20200721_223839.jpg)
EDIT: I did a little more more work on the triangle this afternoon. I'm gonna call it done...
(https://img250.imagetwist.com/th/36324/3ohaonvmgd3m.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/3ohaonvmgd3m/triangle_20200722_124437.jpg)
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The cooking grate I ordered from Weber Sunday afternoon showed up today. It's a perfect fit!
(https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36324/v1nre2ew4xqo.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/v1nre2ew4xqo/20200722_122929.jpg)
The charcoal grate is due Friday so I better finish up the work on the bowl.
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Kicking ass, keep it up
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
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Yesterday I removed the bowl vents to make it easier to work on the kettle. While I had the vents off I scrubbed them down with a brass brush and soapy water, then polished them with steel wool. They look a lot better but cleaning did expose severe pitting on one of the vents. Tomorrow I'm going to test out a marine grade aluminum cleaner on the inside of one of them.
Before
(https://img250.imagetwist.com/th/36310/j3sh7xz2sr3r.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/j3sh7xz2sr3r/20200718_141217.jpg)
After
(https://img250.imagetwist.com/th/36310/ol0tc0fe6lip.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/ol0tc0fe6lip/vent__bowl_20200721_123852.jpg)
Pitting
(https://img250.imagetwist.com/th/36310/j67avk8jzpby.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/j67avk8jzpby/vent__bowl_20200721_123831.jpg)
I also worked on the leg triangle. Just need to polish it a bit more.
Before
(https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36310/qkamduf96xos.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/qkamduf96xos/legs_and_wheels_20200718_160409_Burst01.jpg)
After
(https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36310/02pnfhhg7jcr.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/02pnfhhg7jcr/triangle_20200721_223839.jpg)
EDIT: I did a little more more work on the triangle this afternoon. I'm gonna call it done...
(https://img250.imagetwist.com/th/36324/3ohaonvmgd3m.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/3ohaonvmgd3m/triangle_20200722_124437.jpg)
The triangle rust will return quickly. I’d recommend clear enamel or spray with a silicone based lubricant before you reassemble.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I also worked on the leg triangle. Just need to polish it a bit more.
Before
(https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36310/qkamduf96xos.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/qkamduf96xos/legs_and_wheels_20200718_160409_Burst01.jpg)
After
(https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36310/02pnfhhg7jcr.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/02pnfhhg7jcr/triangle_20200721_223839.jpg)
EDIT: I did a little more more work on the triangle this afternoon. I'm gonna call it done...
(https://img250.imagetwist.com/th/36324/3ohaonvmgd3m.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/3ohaonvmgd3m/triangle_20200722_124437.jpg)
The triangle rust will return quickly. I’d recommend clear enamel or spray with a silicone based lubricant before you reassemble.
Yep, I plan to spray it with Krud Kutter Rust Remover and Inhibitor and then seal it with Rustoleum Cystal Clear.
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36367/toiepcog3dyx.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/toiepcog3dyx/Krud_Kutter.jpg) (https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36367/yt9rncqque5m.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/yt9rncqque5m/Rustoleum_Clear.jpg)
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Worked on cleaning up the legs today
Before
(https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36345/8rrehzcpcju9.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/8rrehzcpcju9/legs_20200718_141135.jpg)
After
(https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36345/6bn3dywx8cec.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/6bn3dywx8cec/legs_20200723_115145.jpg)
NOTE: I don't think that all of these legs are original to the Fleetwood. I had to extend the non-wheel leg about 2 1/2" to get the grill to sit level.
Does anyone know the dimensions of the original legs?
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The charcoal grate arrived from Weber today.
(https://img250.imagetwist.com/th/36367/1ujogc0iy3um.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/1ujogc0iy3um/grate__charcoal_20200724_190406.jpg)
It looks small at the bottom of that big bowl...
(https://img250.imagetwist.com/th/36367/dfoz41lark8i.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/dfoz41lark8i/grate__charcoal_20200724_190630.jpg)
Thanks again to @Cellar2ful for the part number!
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Nice job on the restoration.
I have three vintage 26" kettles. An O Code (1992), a 69-70 Pat Pending, metal wheel model and a Pat Pending "Chief" with plastic wheels and rubber treads. All have the same measurement of 17" for the triangle legs. The front leg of the O Code measures 21 1/2". Both Pat Pending ones the front leg measures 21 3/4".
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I finally found a piece of 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID brass pipe at Ace Hardware (yes they still exist!) to replace the old wheel bushings. I used a cutoff tool with a 3" abrasive disc to cut it into 1 7/16" lengths, a deburring tool to remove the rough edges, and emory cloth to smooth the ends of the bushings and cleanup the axles. She rolls like a stolen mustang now!
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36368/coq7yaur2n10.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/coq7yaur2n10/wheel_bushings_20200718_160355.jpg)
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36368/r4vbpwukxbm5.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/r4vbpwukxbm5/wheel_bushing_20200724_163830.jpg)
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36368/ehjy83mnx1tp.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/ehjy83mnx1tp/wheel_bushing_20200724_163917.jpg)
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36368/cjc97tyz6s8d.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/cjc97tyz6s8d/wheel_bushing_20200724_163951.jpg)
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36368/f10k0ixv8ul4.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/f10k0ixv8ul4/wheel_bushing_20200724_164150.jpg)
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36368/1aaojaa27qk0.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/1aaojaa27qk0/wheel_bushing_20200724_164229.jpg)
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36368/afaae8gn7vq0.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/afaae8gn7vq0/wheel_bushing20200724_164344_01.jpg)
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Nice job on the restoration.
Thanks for your assistance, encouragement and kind words. As a former plant engineer and project/process manager this sh1t is right up my alley.
I have three vintage 26" kettles. An O Code (1992), a 69-70 Pat Pending, metal wheel model and a Pat Pending "Chief" with plastic wheels and rubber treads. All have the same measurement of 17" for the triangle legs. The front leg of the O Code measures 21 1/2". Both Pat Pending ones the front leg measures 21 3/4".
My wheel legs are 17" OAL. The aluminum part of the 3rd leg is 19" but the wood dowel I added makes it just under 22".
My Fleetwood is Pat Pending with a wood lid handle, metal bowl handles, plastic wheels and rubber tires. Guess I'll add a 21 3/4" leg to my search list. Thanks again!
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Here is an easy source for a replacement front leg. Home Depot carries these aluminum shower rods that are the same diameter as Weber aluminum legs. All you have to do is cut to length and drill a hole for the triangle.
Glacier Bay 60” Aluminum Builders Shower Rod Home Depot SKU#1001227499 Model # HD14016
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Here is an easy source for a replacement front leg. Home Depot carries these aluminum shower rods that are the same diameter as Weber aluminum legs. All you have to do is cut to length and drill a hole for the triangle.
Glacier Bay 60” Aluminum Builders Shower Rod Home Depot SKU#1001227499 Model # HD14016
And it's only $8 bucks. Such a deal! Thanks again.
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I'm pretty much done with surface prep and am now faced with choosing one of 2 (or more?) options for finishing/weatherproofing the exterior. In the following photos the lid (dark grey) was etched with rust inhibitor and rubbed down with canola oil while the bowl (light grey) was only etched.
(https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36411/2zjcpgnxogk1.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/2zjcpgnxogk1/20200727_110419.jpg) (https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36411/mz9rc6gv4ap4.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/mz9rc6gv4ap4/20200727_110433.jpg)
(https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36411/izhnaje05ads.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/izhnaje05ads/20200727_110446.jpg) (https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36411/s3x5gfa01u4c.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/s3x5gfa01u4c/20200727_110455.jpg)
(https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36411/f9gufy0h6zus.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/f9gufy0h6zus/20200727_110505.jpg) (https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36411/fygvemnoan2u.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/fygvemnoan2u/20200727_110514.jpg)
(https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36411/gazt6knfikrz.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/gazt6knfikrz/20200727_153640.jpg) (https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36411/e51qj1l94wxi.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/e51qj1l94wxi/20200727_153652.jpg)
(https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36411/vs434yzmdgzc.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/vs434yzmdgzc/20200727_153719.jpg) (https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36411/e12oms5up35a.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/e12oms5up35a/20200727_153726.jpg)
At this point I am leaning towards the un-oiled version as it shows more of the kettle's well earned patina, however, it will require re-etching occasionally (possibly monthly) or clear-coating which several members have warned me against. (In my defense, the clear enamel I have in mind is rated to 2,000 deg F and was approved by the FDA for use on our printing press ovens to print flexible packaging for the food industry. When I retired in 2005 it had been in use for 8 years and was scheduled for repainting the following year.)
The darker oiled version looks boring (to me) and will require refreshing several times a year to prevent rust. On the other hand it is less controversial.
I'll probably regret this but please let me know how you feel about these options and toss in any other approaches that may be viable.
THANKS!
Z
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I vote for oil rubbed look, looks killer!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Weber Kettle Club mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=91018)
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Nice restore... you’re killing it!!!
Sent from my iPhone using Weber Kettle Club (https://siteowners.tapatalk.com/byo/displayAndDownloadByoApp?rid=91018)
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I vote that it is your grill do as what pleases you, the others will get in line LOL
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
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I vote that it is your grill do as what pleases you, the others will get in line LOL
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
True but not particularly helpful. Ironically I used that line on another member recently. Karma is a bitch!
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This is a fun restore to follow. Great job and thanks for sharing!
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I would leave as is without a coating on it.
Sent from my SM-N976B using Weber Kettle Club mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=91018)
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I vote:
Leave it...no coating as well. [emoji1303]
Sent from my iPhone using Weber Kettle Club (https://siteowners.tapatalk.com/byo/displayAndDownloadByoApp?rid=91018)
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I haven't had much time for the Fleetwood project recently but I did make a decision about the finish. Assuming I can reverse the darkening effect of the oil on the lid I plan to go "au naturel". Thanks to all the members who responded to my request.
Meanwhile, the metal bowl handles are "in the mail" along with 3 bowl vents (hopefully in better condition than the originals). They should arrive later today.
(https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36456/yecquf4yidq5.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/yecquf4yidq5/vent__bowl_20200721_123840.jpg)
(https://img250.imagetwist.com/th/36456/9xngzxoy8qjn.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/9xngzxoy8qjn/vent__bowl_20200721_123831.jpg)
I didn't slack off completely though. I found time to dress the wheels.
(https://img300.imagetwist.com/th/36456/z66g6vs52yss.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/z66g6vs52yss/wheel_white_wall_20200728_151351.jpg)
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coming along nicely, I like it
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Looking good.
Those wheels look great [emoji106]
Sent from my SM-G960U using Weber Kettle Club mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=91018)
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The metal bowl handles and bowl vent covers arrived. Many thanks to @Red_5_Wrangler !
(https://img250.imagetwist.com/th/36461/f56juuh676t5.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/f56juuh676t5/bowl_handles_20200730_153444.jpg)
(https://img250.imagetwist.com/th/36461/y6avluwr4em9.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/y6avluwr4em9/vents__bowl_20200730_153110.jpg)
I dived right in on the vent covers. Spray with DuraGloss 551 (marine grade aluminum cleaner), wait 2 minutes and watch the scrubbing bubbles work their magic :D, flush with water, repeat 2 times; spray with DuraGloss 551, scrub with brass brush, flush with water, scrape a few areas still peppered with baked on grease stains, steel wool for 5 minutes on each side, and they are looking pretty good.
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36461/jxqn3fkm237u.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/jxqn3fkm237u/vents__bowl_20200730_163239.jpg)
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36461/za2tkj3eo31w.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/za2tkj3eo31w/vents__bowl_20200730_161559.jpg)
I'll do a few more passes with steel wool tomorrow. Then I'll start prepping the metal bowl handles.
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Today I worked on the metal bowl handles. First I did a rough square cut to remove them from the old bowl material.
(https://img119.imagetwist.com/th/36500/1bhzioz8th7o.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/1bhzioz8th7o/bowl_handles__new__20200731_124618.jpg)
(https://img119.imagetwist.com/th/36500/v1mnfq830h4w.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/v1mnfq830h4w/bowl_handles__new__20200731_124642_HDR.jpg)
Then I rounded them off.
(https://img165.imagetwist.com/th/36500/tq3us5ax995d.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/tq3us5ax995d/bowl_handles__new__20200731_141305.jpg)
(https://img165.imagetwist.com/th/36500/06wz94am6r0s.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/06wz94am6r0s/bowl_handles__new__20200731_141627.jpg)
At this point I noticed some cracks near the pads on one side of each of the handles. I hadn't seen them during my original inspection so I may have have caused them myself.
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36500/j3tn21s0kqlg.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/j3tn21s0kqlg/bowl_handles__new__20200731_153635.jpg) (https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36500/opl20nhnlgio.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/opl20nhnlgio/bowl_handles__new__20200731_153748.jpg)
(https://img165.imagetwist.com/th/36500/1nb4hrqxty4j.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/1nb4hrqxty4j/bowl_handles__new__20200731_183011.jpg)
I knew those cracks would fail eventually so I decided to try something. I drilled holes through the seams near the cracks.
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36500/n3yj7fcrzyfx.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/n3yj7fcrzyfx/bowl_handles__new__20200801_125145.jpg)
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36500/3fon1aw6p47r.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/3fon1aw6p47r/bowl_handles__new__20200801_125902.jpg)
I mixed up some 2-part high temp epoxy and used a narrow stick to pack it into the holes until I could see epoxy at the cracks. Then I held the base of an oscillating multi-tool against each handle hoping the vibration would insure that there were no voids in the epoxy. After the epoxy had set up I mixed up another batch and coated over the cracks and around the pads. After giving it a few hours to set up I drilled holes in the pads and test fit the handles to the bowl to make sure they fit.
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36500/4pbwa90st8am.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/4pbwa90st8am/bowl_handles__new__20200801_143154.jpg)
(https://img69.imagetwist.com/th/36500/uhsfn0i45xdz.jpg) (https://imagetwist.com/uhsfn0i45xdz/bowl_handles__new__20200801_143214.jpg)
Once they fully cure (48 hours) I'll sand the epoxy smooth then install the handles using either 1/4-20 stainless steel nuts, bolts & washers or 1/4" brass pop rivets. I'll let you know how it turns out....