Cloned a Slow 'N Sear XL

[robert-r]

for the 26er. Wanted to find out what all the brew-haha was about.

Material was .1" mild steel leftover from previous projects. Laid out and cut the piece that lines the kettle.



Bent it on my trusty Harbor Freight 20 ton press.



It fits!



These 2 straight pieces took the most time to make/fit. If I had a nickel for every hour....



Welded up! Holds exactly 1 quart of water which I never use.





Made a charcoal grate for just in case I decide to burn lump.





Got it workin!





fwiw - I like it! Am glad the bottom of it is open - makes for ez removal of the unit while leaving the charcoal on the grate for cleanup.

My friend Jason S supplied photos that were a big help with the project.

[FarmerQue]

As per usual, you delivered with a fine looking build.  Keep up the grate work.  Hopefully one day this summer I will start building......starting with an XL like your beauty.

[Mike in Roseville]

Looks excellent! Nice looking tri tip as well.

[mahnamahna]

I keep seeing people complain about the cost of a real SnS but for someone like myself with no experience or knowledge or tools for fabricating something like this, and then seeing and reading what you did to make this one, I almost think they are too cheap!

Very nice work.


Sent from my iPhone using Weber Kettle Club

[robert-r]

As per usual, you delivered with a fine looking build.  Keep up the grate work.  Hopefully one day this summer I will start building......starting with an XL like your beauty.

Thanks, FarmerQue! Go for it!!!

Looks excellent! Nice looking tri tip as well.

Thanks, Mike.The tri-tip was grate.

I keep seeing people complain about the cost of a real SnS but for someone like myself with no experience or knowledge or tools for fabricating something like this, and then seeing and reading what you did to make this one, I almost think they are too cheap!

Very nice work.


Sent from my iPhone using Weber Kettle Club

You are correct, mahnamahna. The SnS is good value: works well, nicely made out of stainless steel and the price includes shipping. & thanks!

[qrczak1]

Perfect! Good job

[jimz]

How did you come up with the radius for the original cut? Very nice work! I have a 26" and would like to make one as well.

[robert-r]

Thanks!

You need to look at the grill from the side and do a little basic drafting. The top and bottom are viewed as a flat line - as is the center.
Draw the top line - you can use the distance from the bottom side of the cooking grate supports minus a bit less. Next, draw the bottom line. Use the diameter of the coal grate. It should under and centered under the top line and down the distance from the coal grate and the underside of the cooking grate tabs - about 5 " or so. Now draw a line from the midpoint of the top line through the midpoint of the bottom line and continue it down quite a ways. This is the centerline and should be perpendicular to the top and bottom lines. Next, draw a line connecting the endpoints of the top and bottom lines and continue until it hits the centerline. The distance from this intersection to the intersection of the top line and centerline will give you the desired radius. The second radius is from the same point to the intersection of the centerline and the bottom/lower line.

Clear as mud, huh?

[jimz]

uhhhhhh yeah clear as mud.... Thanks for sharing thou. I may tr this just take a different route. Radius template at the top and at the bottom and them connect the dots. Do you think the water pan is worth the effort?

[robert-r]

uhhhhhh yeah clear as mud.... Thanks for sharing thou. I may tr this just take a different route. Radius template at the top and at the bottom and them connect the dots. Do you think the water pan is worth the effort?

Well... if you don't use water or think you might in the future then it's not needed.  However, it seems like a "cool air" buffer is useful for indirect high heat cooks. Am not absolutely sure about that, though. You could easily make one along the lines of the 18" charcoal basket that ABC sells. If it's of no value - toss it.

[jimz]

uhhhhhh yeah clear as mud.... Thanks for sharing thou. I may tr this just take a different route. Radius template at the top and at the bottom and them connect the dots. Do you think the water pan is worth the effort?

Well... if you don't use water or think you might in the future then it's not needed.  However, it seems like a "cool air" buffer is useful for indirect high heat cooks. Am not absolutely sure about that, though. You could easily make one along the lines of the 18" charcoal basket that ABC sells. If it's of no value - toss it.

True I have nothing to loose I will most likely make it with the water pan. Thanks again for sharing!

[Bubblehead]

I'm the Quality Manager for a metal manufacturer, we stamp and form parts all day.  What you produced with a press and not a press brake is pretty impressive.  It's far cooler to fab up your own gear, it makes for a good grilling conversation.

[Hinds90]

Lol looks like you took the same path I did with making accessories for the 26er (a diffuser with charcoal ring and homemade slow n sear although mine were a lot more crude lol). I found with the slow n sear you really don't need the water trough (didn't have the means to make one anyway) which is why I think with the 2.0 David went with a removable one plus it leaves room for more charcoal. If you're a fan of water in the cooking chamber you could always put a water pan on the grate above the charcoal area of the slow n sear.

All together you've made some polished and durable accessories that look like they were purchased from a store and have made me realize I need to step my game up.

[WMT]

How did you come up with the radius for the original cut? Very nice work! I have a 26" and would like to make one as well.

Or you could just use the below online cone calculator.
http://craig-russell.co.uk/demos/cone_calculator/

[WMT]

BTW robert-r, beautiful craftsmanship. Thats something to be proud of