There’s no separate thread for this grill. We’re not quite finished with handles/wheels etc. yet. I raised a 26, my second such endeavor. Total increase is maybe 4-5 inches.
Goals additionally included:
1) Some (very) minor strengthening of the front leg so that it wouldn’t so quickly get loose in the socket and cause a forward tilt … as 26ers like to do.
2) Bent front leg with wheel, for foot clearance while walking around the grill and easy shuttling on the porch.
I bought some of these shower rods,
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-Bay-60-in-Aluminum-Builders-Shower-Rod-in-Chrome-HD14016/205699635?MERCH=REC-_-rv_nav_plp_rr-_-NA-_-205699635-_-N and begun cutting the rears. I want to say the rear legs are 25” and of course you just smash the ends with a hammer where the (new) axle goes through.
I crudely bent the front leg around a burn barrel with the help of a C-clamp. I partially filled it with Great Stuff but still managed to kink it. "Thanks, Internet!" Those of you with the proper tools and/or patience to fill with sand or whatever could SELL bent tubes to this forum, just sayin’!
I bought 1” furniture/caster sockets from Ace just like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Shepherd-Hardware-9073-Plastic-Furniture/dp/B000XZI1W6 After tapping the sockets in, and the caster wheel, I began cutting the bent leg to fit so that when assembled, the kettle would be level.
The triangle was initially a mystery. I settled on a location that made sense to meet the front leg and then matched that up at the rear. The rear of the triangle doesn’t go all the way through the legs, but of course you could do it for more strength.
The front of the triangle has an almost “full loop” to the end, which isn’t seen when installed on a stock 26er’s front leg (because of the angle of the leg.) I took advantage of that by drilling two small holes, only large enough to let the wire pass through, thereby supporting the triangle there with two tight holes (oh my!) in the hopes that the hole(s) wouldn’t so quickly get rounded out over time (I hate when that happens.) Less wiggle here also means less wiggle at the socket end, I hope.
It's a mild but usable lift. This first image doesn't adequately reveal that it's now higher than the Performers behind it.
![](http://pics.weberkettleclub.com/images/2017/10/28/IMG_8642.jpg)
![](http://pics.weberkettleclub.com/images/2017/10/28/IMG_8646.jpg)
![](http://pics.weberkettleclub.com/images/2017/10/28/IMG_8647.jpg)
The strongest way to stabilize a 26 is to physically lock the front leg to the rears with another tube, located horizontally. The legs should never develop a wobble. I did that for the one I made for chuck_s with the help of two leftover star nuts from a SSP fix. You can also see I made his a lot taller!
![](http://pics.weberkettleclub.com/images/2017/10/28/chucks-26er.jpg)