Weber Kettle Club Forums
Grill Talk => Weber Grill Forum (Grills, Accessories) => Topic started by: Tim in PA on June 11, 2013, 04:37:27 AM
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Forgive me if this has been brought up before but I couldn't find anything. What is your tried and true method of cleaning your kettles?
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Interior or exterior?
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Both please. :)
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EVERYTHING!
Lets create a thread so everyone new and old can come to for reference.
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I used a combination of Greased Lightning and 0000 steel wool on both my performer and the redhead with 25 years of junk on the lid. Worked well
and didn't flaw the finish at all. I also rinsed frequently (when the GL was starting to dry) and just kept scrubbing. Lather, rinse, repeat.
For the interior, any degreaser would work, coupled with a plastic putty knife . PLASTIC! I also use a scotchbrite pad on the interior if I need to do some scrubbing. I think I have read that some people use an SOS pad, but that steel wool is too coarse for my liking.
The legs, pan, vents: 0000 steel wool and chrome polish.
that's how I do it. Gassers and kettles.
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I gave up on oven cleaner - too impatient. And I try to avoid chemicals. Don't get me wrong, I really like them (see impatient). I'm just not good with hazardous waste - I don't like the way my roses have been following me around the yard lately :o
My number one tool is a razor blade in a retractable blade holder.
(http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b505/dazzo16/RetractableRazor_zps0e29884b.jpg) (http://s1289.photobucket.com/user/dazzo16/media/RetractableRazor_zps0e29884b.jpg.html)
The scariest part is when you first use the blade and you see the shiney build-up peel off. "Damn, am I peeling off porcelain?". No, that's just the build-up that was stuck to it. Once I got past that fear, I became a scraping fool - in addition to a regular fool.
The Weber porcelain is beautiful and is almost bullet-proof, and the build-up, light or heavy, comes right off the inside of the bowl and lid.
Followed by a light scrubbing with water and a SOS pad. The soap lubricates as you scrub and you can feel any build-up you left behind. Rinse it off and admire your reflection.
Works great on the Genesis hood as well.
(http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b505/dazzo16/Clean_zps7cc882e2.jpg) (http://s1289.photobucket.com/user/dazzo16/media/Clean_zps7cc882e2.jpg.html)
For the outside, a wipe down with soap and water, followed by 0000 steel wool. Lightly with the razor blade for tar, paint and other stubborn stuff.
For rust on the other parts, I like vinegar (distilled works) and a tool for scrubbing - Steel wool, wire brushes and wheels.
(http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b505/dazzo16/T-before_zps57f96330.jpg) (http://s1289.photobucket.com/user/dazzo16/media/T-before_zps57f96330.jpg.html)
(http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b505/dazzo16/T-after_zps74a2f340.jpg) (http://s1289.photobucket.com/user/dazzo16/media/T-after_zps74a2f340.jpg.html)
May have to try Mothers Mag on my legs and pans.
Along with an extra large can of elbow grease and some time.
Then sit back and enjoy another "R", Re-Admire 8)
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Mothers mag is awesome on legs...I use it after using SOS pad or 0000 steel wool on them
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(http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b505/dazzo16/Clean_zps7cc882e2.jpg) (http://s1289.photobucket.com/user/dazzo16/media/Clean_zps7cc882e2.jpg.html)
Remarkable would be an understatement. That looks out-of-the-box new. Do you not have to "curve the blade when working the inside?
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I use razor blades in the retractable holder, a cheap 5-in-1 paint tool that has been formed to match the contour of the Webers, Greased Lightning, SOS pads, and ScotchBrite pads to clean the porcelain items. SOS pads also work well to remove surface rust from chrome items. A whisk broom is handy for getting ash out of the old Bar-B-Q-Kettles.
In the past I have also used a wood chisel to remove the heaviest, hardest crud from the inside of the WSM domes.
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Could somebody post a pic of the specific Mother's Mag product that works best for the aluminium, legs, pans, etc..........not sure if I'm using the right Mother's product...... :-[
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sunsanvil - no curve to the razor blade, it will actually flex just a little. Hold the blade somewhat parallel with the surface and just a lot of back and forth and up and down. Don't fly around too much as the blade is sharp - I still have all my fingers thank you.
Followed by water and a SOS pad.
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I use the standard on the bowls, plastic putty knife. I will try the razor blade. Here is what I use on the ash trays to pretty good success.
BUCKIE, Mothers is pictured.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj623/glrasmussen/null_zpsf713a8f9.jpg) (http://s1271.photobucket.com/user/glrasmussen/media/null_zpsf713a8f9.jpg.html)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj623/glrasmussen/null_zps9947e2cc.jpg) (http://s1271.photobucket.com/user/glrasmussen/media/null_zps9947e2cc.jpg.html)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj623/glrasmussen/null_zpsa5fd523f.jpg) (http://s1271.photobucket.com/user/glrasmussen/media/null_zpsa5fd523f.jpg.html)
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Could somebody post a pic of the specific Mother's Mag product that works best for the aluminium, legs, pans, etc..........not sure if I'm using the right Mother's product...... :-[
Buckie, I use the little red and white container in the picture...always cleans up the legs and pan!
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Thanks Greg & T L !!!!
I think what I have is a Mother's product that's more of a polish than a cleaner.....it will clean some, but I'm going to look into this furthur.....
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Thanks Greg & T L !!!!
I think what I have is a Mother's product that's more of a polish than a cleaner.....it will clean some, but I'm going to look into this furthur.....
If it helps Buckie, mine is polish also. It is my last step. Legs, SOS pad and a degreaser, second is the legs must be lightly wet and hit it the mag aluminum cleaner(30 to 40 seconds, it will etch the aluminum), light scrub with SOS pad, rinse, dry, then the Mothers Polish.
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@ 1buckie, my interpretation is that the polish (in the small tub) effectively acts as a cleaner, too, when applied with 0000 and then wiped or rinsed off.
Mothers has an aluminum cleaner in a spray (similar to the Eagle 1 branded "mag wheel" stuff pictured above) but it may not be as effective.
Either that, or I'm confused as well.
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Thanks for the input, folks.....
"Mothers has an aluminum cleaner in a spray (similar to the Eagle 1 branded "mag wheel" stuff pictured above) but it may not be as effective."
Pretty sure this is what I got going.......
Thanks Greg & T L !!!!
I think what I have is a Mother's product that's more of a polish than a cleaner.....it will clean some, but I'm going to look into this furthur.....
If it helps Buckie, mine is polish also. It is my last step. Legs, SOS pad and a degreaser, second is the legs must be lightly wet and hit it the mag aluminum cleaner(30 to 40 seconds, it will etch the aluminum), light scrub with SOS pad, rinse, dry, then the Mothers Polish.
I need to explore the "elbow grease" aspect of this endeavor also........ 8)
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That '80 ash pan gets me every time! Looks like a brand new old stock one in the "after" picture. Meaning it's that AWESOME of a cleanup! :D Outstanding work!
I need to try the vinegar method on my triangles. there IMO the hardest parts to clean.
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Yeah, I think the triangles are hard because there are lots of "surfaces" to take care of.
Steel wool / SOS along the lines, small wire brush at the joints. Looks pretty good. Then you turn it over, damn! There's another side! Same process again.
Both of mine came out nice. Don't have any experience with pitting of a really bad one though. Even Old Grey's cleaned up real nice.
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Don't laugh at this question, but has anyone ever waxed the outside of the grill?
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Tim, I'm sure someone has done it. But I don't think they should have to unless they've scarred or marred the finish with a heavy-handed cleaning regimen.
The paint process is setup such that the finish is glossy, without Weber adding gloss or polish on top of paint.
The "(baked-on) porcelain enamel" they cite in advertising is the Americanized term for Vitreous enamel. Etymology: Latin vitreus (“glassy, transparent”), from vitrum (“glass”).
What I'm trying to say is that the process of applying paint in this way at the factory also makes it a shiny/glossy finish.
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some tools:
Tonight I picked up a narrow, flexible Warner PROgrip putty knife. There are 3 ranges Warner makes, red handle=stiff, blue handle=flexible, yellow handle=even more flexible. I went with blue, 1 1/2" / 3.8cm. Warner's numbers: Item #: 350010 | Model #: 3490127C
I played with a few others, cheaper, at Lowe's but liked this one the best overall. Lowe's link: http://www.lowes.com/pd_350010-995-3490127C_0__?Ntt=350010&UserSearch=350010&productId=3364392&rpp=32 (http://www.lowes.com/pd_350010-995-3490127C_0__?Ntt=350010&UserSearch=350010&productId=3364392&rpp=32)
Tonight I also picked up a push-type razor blade. These are called "glass scrapers" and the nicer ones are unsurprisingly also found in the paint section. The tools section will probably have a cheapie. The one I picked up is a Finish Factor item # 157950, model 34103 but this Lowe's link shows it under the Blue Hawk brand: http://www.lowes.com/pd_157950-995-34103_0__?Ntt=157950&UserSearch=157950&productId=3167657&rpp=32
Both are from Warner Tool and made in USA as is the putty knife above. I have no affiliation with Warner Tool nor Lowe's. Hell, I don't even work anywhere! But I will spend a few bucks more for what I like and if it's made in the USA I like that, too. Just like the Webers I own.
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some chemicals:
1)
I picked up some CLR the other day since a few people here recommended it for cleaning aluminum/rust and general schmutz from metal. But wait --- WHICH CLR?
From Jelmar: http://www.jelmar.com/CLRproducts.htm
OK, but other people also make "CLR"? Sorta, kinda.
Poor Jelmar. They named their signature product after the things it takes care of, calcium, lime and rust.
That's dandy until you walk into the store and next to the $20 or $30 jug of Jelmar CLR you see one from Zep also called CLR and it's less than half the price!
Oops. What's going on here? Is Jelmar's product a ripoff? That depends. Zep's version has hydrochloric acid! You really wanna work with that a lot? It helps to read the labels carefully ...
2)
Next up we have Krud Kutter. I wanted a degreaser that wasn't oven cleaner. KK is non-toxic and biodegradable. The other degreasers I saw, even some "with citrus" in them, were not and had warnings of shield your eyes, wash after skin contact etc. Jeebus! KK costs a little more and it's based in the state I live; I'll give it a go.
3)
Cameo aluminum & stainless steel cleaner, http://www.amazon.com/Cameo-Stain-Steel-Clean/dp/B001QR23I8
Bought on a lark at the grocery story for a lot less than what Amazon charges. In fact, per oz. it was a lot cheaper that whatever other stainless/aluminum cleaners at the grocery store. It's a powder you make into a paste and I don't know, might be too rough on my stainless or aluminum grill parts. We'll see.
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Triangles are the pest... I have found that a pumice stick works. I use it after SOS pad. It is a last resort. But still need something for the tight areas...
Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2
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Don't laugh at this question, but has anyone ever waxed the outside of the grill?
I sprayed the outside of my '74 faded gray kettle with Pam. Actually I did the inside as well. The porcelain is pitted and there is significant rust staining. My intent was to provide some protection from further rusting. I thought the oil should harden from the heat like it does when seasoning cast iron. The Pam really darkened the color. It's not jet black like when new, but a lot darker than it was. However I've cooked on it a couple times since and the spots where charcoal was close to the bowl have started to lighten.
On other grills I just give them a shot in the rusty spots.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--ZUIJ88PfZg/T7D-tWpk2gI/AAAAAAAAJf4/hBU5NWl_MME/s800/DSC_5321-PP.JPG) (https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1xLu-OkDM9o/UZainii5nnI/AAAAAAAARHw/wLTZ47LWbCU/s800/DSC_6638-PP.JPG)
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Next up we have Krud Kutter.
I've used this. Very similar to Greased Lightning.
Also, I wanted to note that the ScotchBrite pads I use (green) MAY scratch the porcelain of a Weber, so be careful.
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Tim, I think wax on the exterior of a grill would just melt off when it was cooking. Though the way in which car wax removes oxidation would be useful.
The tip I've used with some success is Turtle Wax buffing compound applied with 0000 steel wool, and then buffed off with a rag/towel. It does a decent job of removing oxidation on most of the kettles I've worked on.
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Next up we have Krud Kutter.
I've used this. Very similar to Greased Lightning. ...
I'll have to look again. There was a Greased Lightning product I compared it to at the store but it did advertise non-toxcity or whatever that KK did.
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I'll have to look again. There was a Greased Lightning product I compared it to at the store but it did advertise non-toxcity or whatever that KK did.
I don't recall seeing it on the label, but that doesn't bother me.
I will tell you that I used the Krud Kutter to clean up my Father's Day present, and it seemed to work a hell of a lot better than Greased Lightning. Don't know if it was the cleaner, or just very, very old gunk in the grill.
And I'm not sure how non-tox tox tox tox tox tox tox toxic it is.
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+1 for Krud Kutter.
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Don't laugh at this question, but has anyone ever waxed the outside of the grill?
I sprayed the outside of my '74 faded gray kettle with Pam. Actually I did the inside as well. The porcelain is pitted and there is significant rust staining. My intent was to provide some protection from further rusting. I thought the oil should harden from the heat like it does when seasoning cast iron. The Pam really darkened the color. It's not jet black like when new, but a lot darker than it was. However I've cooked on it a couple times since and the spots where charcoal was close to the bowl have started to lighten.
On other grills I just give them a shot in the rusty spots.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--ZUIJ88PfZg/T7D-tWpk2gI/AAAAAAAAJf4/hBU5NWl_MME/s800/DSC_5321-PP.JPG) (https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1xLu-OkDM9o/UZainii5nnI/AAAAAAAARHw/wLTZ47LWbCU/s800/DSC_6638-PP.JPG)
Hank, I just saw this. It's amazing that was the same kettle I saw on saturday.
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Dazzo,
The razor blade method works brilliantly. At first I was very hesitant but once I start getting into it, I really let go. I was working on the inside of the lid last night and took a quick picture. It isn't done but this shows what a razor blade alone can do for you.
DELETED the picture because the quality was crappy. :)
Oh, and my wife thinks I'm crazy. I told her how great it looks and her comment was "you cleaned it off just so you can get it dirty again."
I said "it will be MY dirt now!"
I got the 'itis' and it's gooooooooood.
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Question about the razorblade method before I dig into a similar project this weekend. What direction do you run the blade?
Top to bottom?
Side to side?
Caddywampus?
All of the above?
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Question about the razorblade method before I dig into a similar project this weekend. What direction do you run the blade?
Top to bottom?
Side to side?
Caddywampus?
All of the above?
I've only worked on the inside of the lid. I went both directions, outer edge to the middle of lid and middle of lid to outer edge mostly. I found it easier to get a good consistent angle by going towards the outer edge. Use a new blade and change it periodically. I started with a used blade and wish I switched it out sooner. It really does work that good!
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great ...great thread. i had not seen it before. and Addicted... thanks for the links. that really helps. and the pics that others put up of stuff.
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I just cleaned the inside of my lid today for the first time since I got it about 6 plus months ago. My Weber has seen heavy use and I had a pretty good layer of crud built up on the lid. It was that dry crusty kinda crud. I Did something I saw posted here on another thread... I sprayed the inside with oven cleaner and put it in a bag and left it out in the sun for a couple of hours. I rinsed it out and scraped it with a plastic bottle cap and repeated the process. After I got 99% of the crud off I took some 000 steel wool and got whatever was left ......and there was not much. I would have posted some pics but I didn't take any before pics. The inside looks pretty much like brand new again. I guess I will have to figure out how to cover it with crud again......maybe the pork butt I am doing tomorrow will help get it started....or even the pizza I'm doing tonight... ;D
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Cameo works great on aluminum (Publix carries it) and bar keepers friend works great on chrome and stainless.
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I've read this thread but don't recall if someone mentioned tossing the top grill into the dishwasher, or if removing all the black is another instance of tossing it in a bag with oven cleaner. Sure isn't coming off with a wire brush.
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I was cleaning up one of my old grey kettles last night. I couldn't find the good razor blade holder, and the cheap POS I bought wouldn't hold a blade anymore.
What to do?
I clamped a razor blade in a pair of Vice-Grips and scrapped the shit out of the bowl and lid like that. It worked really well!
As far a straight or cattywampus, when I did the lid I started in the center and worked toward the lip as far as I could. Then I started at the lip and angled my way down the side of the lid. I had some serious gunk on there. It was like I was scraping off a layer of leather.
Bought a new blade holder today, and some vice-grips that are probably better shaped for the task. Now I'm covered no matter what.
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I was cleaning up one of my old grey kettles last night. I couldn't find the good razor blade holder, and the cheap POS I bought wouldn't hold a blade anymore.
What to do?
I clamped a razor blade in a pair of Vice-Grips and scrapped the shit out of the bowl and lid like that. It worked really well!
As far a straight or cattywampus, when I did the lid I started in the center and worked toward the lip as far as I could. Then I started at the lip and angled my way down the side of the lid. I had some serious gunk on there. It was like I was scraping off a layer of leather.
Bought a new blade holder today, and some vice-grips that are probably better shaped for the task. Now I'm covered no matter what.
.................relentless determination post of the week !!!!!
Good Show !!!!!
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I an in the process of cleaning up a triangle, used steel wool 0000 on it and cleaned up nice, what should I put on top the protect it ?
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I would think if its the triangle you would be fine with some metal polish or just hit it with clear coat paint.
"my kettle is more powerful it will do almost anything."