Weber Kettle Club Forums
Grill Talk => WSM: Weber Smokey Mountain => Topic started by: Lemans on July 21, 2016, 05:52:23 AM
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So I have the grommets from weber,I have my step bit and I have a donor smokey joe lid to practice on.. I been wanting to do this for awhile, I hate running the probe wires under the lid. Any suggestions about drilling the Holes ( I have two SWMs) ? I dont want to Screw up!!
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Use tape, a sharp bit, fast drill and don't press too hard.
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I have drilled holes in my Weber using a step bit without any chipping. I have found that the tape isn't needed. However a sharp bit and a high speed drill is very beneficial.
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Noooooooooooooo!!!!! Put the step bit down put the drill down and hug your webers tell them you love them just the way they are. It is your parental duty to handle each weber with whatever short comings it may have. If you dont leave those webers alone I'm gonna have to call the national W.A.R.P. hotline on you. Weber.Abuse.Resource.Protection.Agency
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I was thinking about doing the grommet on my older 18 but I like the notch idea. (Not sure the source) but i have a cutoff tool and think it would be much easier with less damage to the WSM.
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I am so undecided. Risk "F" ing up my twins
Or just replace some maverick probes when the get crushed
Under the lid..
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I am so undecided. Risk "F" ing up my twins
Or just replace some maverick probes when the get crushed
Under the lid..
I've punched holes through the Weber shells with 100% success.
I've got a couple of tutorials floating around here somewhere.
The tape does not do anything but give you a substrate to mark your layout on.
The UniBit (aka "step bit") is your weapon of choice.
I have never punched a hole the size needed for the monster Weber therm port.
I think it is over an inch in diameter.
There are two other choices...
1) High temp silicone grommet from Grainger
2) Therm port from Cajun Bandit.
Both of those require MUCH smaller holes.
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Listen Lemans you've got the weber grommets just make sure your step bit can make a 1 1/4" hole if not get a hole saw. I've used my hole saw four times with great success. I use my step bit for drilling holes in the lid for the thermometer, again I've been successful five times. The tape is for your measurement marks and to protect the weber from bit slippage so yeah go on and use tape. After drilling use a round file on the edges and then apply paint, personally I use olive oil. Good luck and have fun
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I am so undecided. Risk "F" ing up my twins
Or just replace some maverick probes when the get crushed
Under the lid..
I've punched holes through the Weber shells with 100% success.
I've got a couple of tutorials floating around here somewhere.
The tape does not do anything but give you a substrate to mark your layout on.
The UniBit (aka "step bit") is your weapon of choice.
I have never punched a hole the size needed for the monster Weber therm port.
I think it is over an inch in diameter.
There are two other choices...
1) High temp silicone grommet from Grainger
2) Therm port from Cajun Bandit.
Both of those require MUCH smaller holes.
Dayum! Those are monster holes to drill into a bullet! I'll add one more to the list of choices!
3: Threaded lamp nipples. They are inexpensive enough to add them to both sides or whatever is convenient.
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t310/swamprb/Ugly%20Drum%20Smoker/IMG_1949.jpg)
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t310/swamprb/Ugly%20Drum%20Smoker/IMG_2291.jpg)
I have them on all my Drums and WSM's now. You can leave them open - I have screw on caps for mine.
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t310/swamprb/Ugly%20Drum%20Smoker/IMG_2282.jpg)
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t310/swamprb/Ugly%20Drum%20Smoker/IMG_2401.jpg)
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t310/swamprb/Ugly%20Drum%20Smoker/IMG_2399.jpg)
The last few drums I built I got hole saws because I was having a bitch of a time with the larger dia. (1"+) step bits. You have to have a steady hand, drill straight or in my case they were binding and deforming the hole due to the radius of the drums. I was drilling slightly smaller than the intakes (1.5") and a flange covers the damage, that I was able to pound them out, but if that happened on a WSM porcelain finish, it would be f'd up!
Another hole option is a Knockout Punch. Electrical contractors usually have them if you know one.
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t310/swamprb/Ugly%20Drum%20Smoker/IMG_1820_1.jpg) (http://s163.photobucket.com/user/swamprb/media/Ugly%20Drum%20Smoker/IMG_1820_1.jpg.html)
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t310/swamprb/Ugly%20Drum%20Smoker/IMG_2639.jpg) (http://s163.photobucket.com/user/swamprb/media/Ugly%20Drum%20Smoker/IMG_2639.jpg.html)
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Swamp.....
Good point on the differences between the step bit and a good hole saw.
Upon further review, I would consider going with a good, bi-metal hole saw for those larger holes.
I've done quite a bit of hole-sawing into steel and aluminum.
I like to keep the kill zone flooded with oil and turn the saw at a lower RPM.
In the case of a cooker, use cooking oil to keep from spreading petroleum-based cooties into your cooker.
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Swamp.....
Good point on the differences between the step bit and a good hole saw.
Upon further review, I would consider going with a good, bi-metal hole saw for those larger holes.
I've done quite a bit of hole-sawing into steel and aluminum.
I like to keep the kill zone flooded with oil and turn the saw at a lower RPM.
In the case of a cooker, use cooking oil to keep from spreading petroleum-based cooties into your cooker.
Easier said than done with flat stock, much more of a challenge to the hack on radius.
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The only problems I see could be type of drill used and if the wsm body laid vertical or horizontal during drilling. One I have a "corded" Porter Cable drill to deliver the needed power. Two I lay the wsm body down horizontal and straddle it so its locked in on three sides and start the drilling. Put a box inside to catch the shavings and you're good to go.
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A standard drill will work with out a problem...corded or cordless. Put a piece of tape where you want your hole, drill a small pilot hole with a metal bit, switch to the step bit and slowly drill until it pops through, repeat until you get the size you want. I've done of ton of hole drilling into all kinds of metals (lots of stainless keg walls) and plastics building home brewing equipment. Hole saws work great, but a step bit seems more controllable in my experience and gives a cleaner finished hole. Punches are awesome too, but can be pricey.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/blksabbath/DSC00067.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/blksabbath/media/DSC00067.jpg.html)
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5/16" hole and a high temp grommet
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l511/Anglerman7/4A07A282-40EB-4410-8321-4CD54F6EC93F.jpg) (http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/Anglerman7/media/4A07A282-40EB-4410-8321-4CD54F6EC93F.jpg.html)
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Well I was all set. I did a test hole on my donor
SJ lid.. I'm not going to risk my twins..
Not worth it...
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h339/njb1954/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/8920DDB1-9A4A-4A0F-879B-1F0D2358E081_zpsklowyhnz.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/njb1954/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/8920DDB1-9A4A-4A0F-879B-1F0D2358E081_zpsklowyhnz.jpg.html)
The hole is not that even!!
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File it down grease it up put the grommet on then tell us if you like what you see. The hole looks pretty good, I cant see where the bad spot is.