I know this is a sore topic around here since most are more into preservation than modification but I am finally working on my 85 gallon UDS project.
What's the best way to get a hole started in porcelain coating without walking the drill bit all over the place? I am thinking blue painters tape but I don't know how much traction that'll proved(or take away).
I appreciate any advice you folks may have.
Jim
Interested in this also
Pretape the area with a scotch tape to mark the spot. Use a smaller diameter drill bit on a drill press at a low torque setting to create s pilot hole. Then finished it with the correct diameter bit and a step bit to get rid of the loose knurls. I did this on a Weber rotisserie ring and a CB stacker ring.
I drilled a probe port in my 22, 8 years ago. Very easy process. Determine the diameter and use a step bit or start off with a couple smaller bits and work you way up to the final diameter. Use new sharp bits. Cover spot with painters tape so the bit does not drift. That's it. I didn't crack the porcelain.
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Thanks guys. I'm diving in!
I use 2 layers of clear
shipping tape. The key here is to use a very sharp bit and drill slowly. I have drilled many vent, bracket, burner, and bale holes without any chipping whatsoever.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171211/63869d7aa40ac52f96a3c6f89eea5be0.jpg)
Also once you reach the hole diameter that you need, roll up a sand paper and wet-sand it until smooth. Use high heat paint on the exposed metal. Good luck.
JV
I appreciate the help guys. I got 4 very clean holes using 2X shipping tape and a new bit. We had some up front, I'm building at work. I debrred with a deburr tool.
Quote from: FTTH on December 11, 2017, 11:24:15 AM
I drilled a probe port in my 22, 8 years ago. Very easy process. Determine the diameter and use a step bit or start off with a couple smaller bits and work you way up to the final diameter. Use new sharp bits. Cover spot with painters tape so the bit does not drift. That's it. I didn't crack the porcelain.
This is exactly how I was taught to do it here, also. It works!
Depending on what you are drilling and where, you may want to consider what will happen with the exposed metal. I have drilled a few holes in my WSM for mods and covered the bare metal with some high heat paint. That may not work as well on a Kettle considering the temps, but you should consider that it will cause rust in the long run.
Good call, bigssa! I'll be sure to apply some high temp paint to the exposed areas.
When I drilled holes in my WSM I started with a small Dremel stone bit to grind through the porcelain, then switched to a drill bit once I got down to metal. This prevented cracking the porcelain and also kept the drill bit from skating.
(https://www.dremel.com/productimages/Dremel_Grinding_Stone_EZ68601_952_(EN)(4).jpg)
Back in the late 1980's I punched holes in the tops of new subarus to install the factory roof racks. Those things were beer cans. More recently, i have had to punch holes in my Jeep Wrangler's body panels and my WSM.
In case nobody has mentioned it, a good way to go is to use an automatic center punch like the Tekton 6580 on Amazon. I sill have my old BluePoint (SnapOn) and it works great. Mine is adjustable.
The other thing you want to do is to use a high quality unibit versus several regular drill bits. They drill smoother holes. The drill bits can drill bad holes and I even have a good set of cobalt bits.
Chase the holes as
@Dsorgnzd suggested above. I have a similar burr in my Dremmel kit.