I noticed on my old kettle that on the front leg socket a weld broke loose. The other two welds are in place so the leg only wobbles a bit and is in no immediate danger of falling off. Other than drilling a hole and installing a nut and bolt, how do others fix something like this? I would think this is common to collectors of old kettles and maybe someone has an idea, maybe JD Weld or some other trick that they use. I would hate to dump the kettle for this reason but eventually the wobble will break the other two welds. I don't have access to welding equipment.
@northwestkettle did a remarkable weld job on his curbside save. Check out his thread. http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/weber-kettles-accessories/curbside-scrap-kettle-save/
Yes, it is a remarkable effort. NW Kettle is above my grade level in restoration skills.
The, perhaps try the JB Weld as you first suggested. If it doesn't work, it can always be ground off if you find out that a buddy of yours knows how to weld.
I used JB Weld on a motorcycle engine once when I followed proper procedure after changing the oil (according to the manual) and unscrewed a particular screw to watch that a bit weeps out when you first start the engine. Head of screw broke off. Tried drilling & tapping it out to no avail. Dealer wanted big bucks to remove it. The guy in the service shop had NO IDEA what I was talking about when I told him the manual states to loosen it after changing the oil to watch oil weep out so you know everything is ok. After finding that out, I plugged it up with JB Weld and the oil stopped leaking. I was amazed that it worked on something that had oil leaking out. I just wiped it off really good & put her over the remainder of the screw. Didn't have any more problems & sold her off later on. Ran into the guy who bought her waiting for the bus with a cast on his leg. Yes, he did it with the motorcycle.
I may go with JB Weld, it is good up to 500 degrees so maybe it will hold as it is on the outside. Would rather not get into drilling holes. Funny story about the guy with the cast.
I'd avoid the drill too. JB Weld has worked surprisingly well for me a couple of times.
The guy with the cast explained that he had a girlfriend on the back, stopped for a stop sign, started giving it some gas to take off, realized he had it in neutral, so kicked it into first (while having increased the gas already), did a wheelie and they both fell off.
I did a weldingspot on my 18 Cado. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171009/d88ec314b1ba91853a036a9e670ff8af.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171009/481cad16b2605b8b899a778491f407e9.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171009/390163e82886ab58c72e3020e1a50a8f.jpg)
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Bertl, I just noticed your comment and see that you welded the socket. That is what I need to do but I do not have the equipment and have never tried to weld. I guess that is the dilemma. You did nice work.
I used JB Weld on it today and I will see how it goes. If it does not work I will have to get someone to do a Weld which based on the pics is the best method. Thanks to both for the help. As for the motorcycle you must have juiced up the horsepower with the work you did on it, I hope the girl did not get hurt.
Maybe this would work ? Higher temp rating.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171011/496726b78c579e6bb937cfd4837063aa.jpg)
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JB weld will likely hold
but what kind of gasses are going to come off it while cooking?
Good point Troy!
Personally I might look at drilling a 3/16" hole and using a steel pop rivet from the inside. Some of the rivet heads are pretty flat and would not interfere with the sweeper to much.
Just got to make sure you use a steel rivet and not aluminum.
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Quote from: Troy on October 11, 2017, 12:43:31 AM
JB weld will likely hold
but what kind of gasses are going to come off it while cooking?
I used JB weld and heat tape to close a rust hole around a blue 18 socket and it has held nicely for over 3 years.
HOLY GRAILS: 1950s era Black or Custom finish 18.5 or 22.5 Kettle, Brown Go Anywhere grill.
Interesting comments, I used the original JB weld yesterday, the leg is secure and does not wobble after 20 hours. The package indicates it holds continuous heat up to 550 degrees. Time will tell. The bond is on the outside of the grill. Not sure how hot it gets on the leg socket. I will burn some charcoal over the weekend to see how it goes. The web site indicates non toxic after it is cured. Maybe the high heat brand would be better.
I think that with the type of problem I had the weld done by Bertl is the best but you need the equipment and have to know what your doing. I viewed Troy's leg socket video a few days ago and think it is a great way to fix the socket if it breaks loose, and a great reference. I only had one loose weld out of three so I looked for another trick but I suppose a drilling a hole and installing a nut and bolt would work fine. Another suggestions I read was to drill a thin hole and use a sheet metal screw. If this does not hold I will drill a hole and bolt it in.
I would think there are a lot of loose sockets in the kettle community maybe this will help others.
Never even knew about the Extreme Heat version. Damn you, Home Depot/Lowe's ... can't ever be bothered to carry anyone's full line of anything.
I thought I would give all of you a follow-up on this. As advised by some the JB Weld did not work, it broke loose after a few days. I would not recommend this on a grill. I would not risk breaking off, melting or potential fumes. If you cannot get it welded properly drill a hole and use a bolt and nut. If I were doing this again I would look for a welding shop and asked for help first. Sadly, since my EE kettle was rusting at the sockets I decide to buy a new weber original kettle at HD and gave the old one away. I will miss the three vent daisy system but I will not miss all the years of the legs dropping off. The new kettle has push pin leg attachment but I wish it did not have a bolt on lid handle. it is still a nice grill and has been improved in the leg attachment design. I cannot detect anything like thinner metal or inferior finish, it is still weber quality and was steal at $89, but without a wood handle that is welded to the top it does not feel the same and it will take time to get accustomed to the difference.
Quote from: BBQ Jack on October 29, 2017, 02:28:20 PM
I thought I would give all of you a follow-up on this. As advised by some the JB Weld did not work, it broke loose after a few days. I would not recommend this on a grill. I would not risk breaking off, melting or potential fumes. If you cannot get it welded properly drill a hole and use a bolt and nut. If I were doing this again I would look for a welding shop and asked for help first. Sadly, since my EE kettle was rusting at the sockets I decide to buy a new weber original kettle at HD and gave the old one away. I will miss the three vent daisy system but I will not miss all the years of the legs dropping off. The new kettle has push pin leg attachment but I wish it did not have a bolt on lid handle. it is still a nice grill and has been improved in the leg attachment design. I cannot detect anything like thinner metal or inferior finish, it is still weber quality and was steal at $89, but without a wood handle that is welded to the top it does not feel the same and it will take time to get accustomed to the difference.
That's the beauty of CL. All of my grills are too old for warranty and all bought over the last 3 years.
It's possible the Extreme Heat version would have been better, right? Sockets take a lot of abuse from hot ash mixed with leg support and movement. Just look on the inside of most any old kettle and you'll see rust spots forming in the 3 spots where each factory weld is.
That said, there's really no better way to get going again, and without issue, than with a shiny new grill that's set to last you for decades to come! Nicely done.
I would not recommend an epoxy of any type. The job that I did broke loose after I moved the grill, it was to brittle to hold perhaps or it did not attach to the porcelain finish. I never did light it up. It is the wrong product for leg sockets or for grill. There is no way except the right way and JB weld is the wrong way for this. I saved my hinged grate and my 304 SS charcoal baskets.