OK, I know this has been discussed a few times but I want to see if there are any out of the box solutions.
Both my Master-touch grills if I move them the front leg pops out.
I can screw or rivet, I want to try something else if I can. I think I remember people using Alum foil to tighten the socket.
Any other thoughts?
Has anyone tried wrapping the leg with electrical tape? It isn't sticky so I don't think it would get all gummed up but could provide enough friction to keep it in place?
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I've used a shim made of wood with good success
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I have used aluminum can pieces cut and folded and it has worked great for shims.
I have heard a wrap of aluminum furnace tape helps as well. Me... i opted for the drill n screw. I dobbed a little paint on the pre drilled holes and affixed Using ss screws
I use Aluminum HVAC tape...works like a CHAMP. usually 1 wrap will do the trick, and so far, no melting issues after quite a bit of use.
The aluminum tape works for me as well.
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I've had success inserting something of a slightly smaller diameter than the leg into the leg (like a socket wrench) to re-shape the aluminum. Read it on here somewhere but I have no idea whose trick it is.
Quote from: jeffrackmo on September 30, 2016, 07:40:09 AMI have heard a wrap of aluminum furnace tape helps as well.
Quote from: firedude5015 on September 30, 2016, 07:40:51 AMI use Aluminum HVAC tape...works like a CHAMP. usually 1 wrap will do the trick, and so far, no melting issues after quite a bit of use.
Quote from: RumBar on September 30, 2016, 07:41:40 AMThe aluminum tape works for me as well.
+4 on the aluminum HVAC tape.......
(+5) I also have had really good results using the aluminum flu tape. Most hardware stores carry it. Not cheap as it is around $7 to $9 a roll. It is rated to 600 degrees so no issue with heat. I find cutting it in 1/2" strips works best. Wrap the leg towards the top of the socket, otherwise it tends to bunch up as you slide the leg into the socket. I also first spread the leg open using needle nose pliers inserted into the leg. Forcing the pliers open in turn opens the leg wider.
(http://pics.weberkettleclub.com/images/2016/09/30/DSC02204.md.jpg)
+6 aluminum tape
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I've used both wood shims and the HVAC tape w/ success. I might try the socket idea- thanks.
Blue 3M masking tape. Hey, it worked.
aluminum tape here as well
+7
LB, I used a metal screw in the aluminum leg above the porcelain leg socket. Worked great, of course. Then I realized that if I pulled the kettle from the rear handle letting the front leg follow, the leg never came out AND the kettle never stubbed it's front leg when it touched the ground during transport. Of course in your case, you'll need to use the bale ... no rear handle.
SJ
On one of my older Silver series, I used a screw type hose clamp around the leg socket. The socket has a machined split in it, so the clamp closed the gap. Worked fine.
I use two of the clips that hold the ash pan. One spread open to fit on the leg socket and one on the front leg. The tabs of the one on the leg over the tabs on the leg socket clip. Easy on and easy off for my travel kettle, as I remove the legs for transport.
(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/dkt2/IMG_0118.jpg)
(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/dkt2/IMG_0119.jpg)