Weber Kettle Club Forums

Newb here looking to possibly pick up performer ss black this weekend on CL.  Looks from pics like decent condition.  I'm eager to begin to trick it out a bit.

I don't see anyone converting the old touch n go starter to the newer electric style.  The whole performer starter kit appears to be $20 bucks.  Anyone tried to hook up an old performer with one?

Hi Benny, I think we're waiting on you to be the first? I asked about this same thing previously but it just been a priority for me to try.

Is there a part number for the electric start?  I'd give it a try.

This is what I *think* I know from researching.

The two parts needed are the module and the button. The existing two wires from the igniter connect to it. Don't ask me about the colors. The grill has black/white and the electronic module's terminals expect red/black or maybe red/white wires. Not sure.

Anyway, the button threads into the module, which it what keeps them both in place. The "only" reason (again, I'm guessing) some of the various gasser parts aren't ideal is because the module attaches by itself to the frame and the button isn't a threaded style. But there shouldn't be a reason why most wouldn't electrically work. I don't think the igniter in any event cares.

http://help.weber.com/schematics/Browse.aspx?model=1481001&Sequence=21&Suffix=

30158201 -- button
85681 -- module

That's for the 2013 but the 2014, '15 should be identical.

Weber wouldn't sell me these as they are not valid parts for my grills.  Not finding them in stock elsewhere.  Will look more tonight.

That's disappointing but not unexpected. This may have to be the kind of thing one of us has to fudge the truth ... you're not the only one who was truthful with Weber and got turned down. In their defense, corporations have no "mechanism" for helping DIYers and hobbyists, and so what usually happens is Joe Public buys the wrong thing and it costs Weber money because now they've paid for shipping, have to restock and so on.

Not that anyone asked, but that's the scenario that plays out.

I know.  In the same call, they let me order SS Ash Sweepers for my older Performers.  They would also not let me order the new lid bale.

These guys have the button in stock, but not the Ignition Module.  I've ordered both, we'll see how long it takes to fill.:
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/button-for-ignition-module-threaded-style-gray-p-1477673.html (http://www.ereplacementparts.com/button-for-ignition-module-threaded-style-gray-p-1477673.html)
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ignition-module-p-1868748.html (http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ignition-module-p-1868748.html)

Check this place.....don't know enough about these gizmos to really know what to look for, but they might have it....

http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/gasgrillparts/brands/weber/

Quote from: ClubChapin on October 27, 2014, 04:36:41 PM
... In the same call, they let me order SS Ash Sweepers for my older Performers. ...

Exactly. Now, if you owned a recent model they would have turned you down because the SS sweepers weren't stock on it.

(Which year did you tell them by the way ... ? I've never known what years they were available.)

I didn't realize that the stock sweepers on my SS Performers were SS.

IVe registered 1 '04 and 2 '99 performers.

Need to figure out how to register a '15.

Quote from: ClubChapin on October 27, 2014, 04:36:41 PM
These guys have the button in stock, but not the Ignition Module.  I've ordered both, we'll see how long it takes to fill.:
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/button-for-ignition-module-threaded-style-gray-p-1477673.html (http://www.ereplacementparts.com/button-for-ignition-module-threaded-style-gray-p-1477673.html)
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ignition-module-p-1868748.html (http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ignition-module-p-1868748.html)

Was notified that these are shipping now.

Hopefully will have in hand by next weekend.

Received these parts.  First, the button is included with the igniter.  No need to purchase a separate button.

I did need to cut the black lead in install a new terminal.

Other than that, no further modification needed.

Went right in and works like a champ.

I do need to point out that it fixes to the Performer with a black plastic nut.  This nut fits inside the cut out in the control panel fine.

The button screws on top of the nut.  It's bezel does not fit in the control panel hole.  It does have a turn or so of thread on the slightly raised panel.  It would work also just sitting loosely on the ignition mechanism.  It will need to be removed to replace the tank.

It seems to be the same height as the original button.  therefore, it must sit a little higher than the old as it is on top of the control pane.  The door seems to close fine.  I'm unsure if the button is touching the bottom of the door or not.  It does not seem to hold the door up at all and certainly, the door does not start the igniter.

While I had the mechanism off, I took the opportunity to twist my igniter wires together.  I think it is a little neater, a little more out of the way, and a little safer for them.

Pete
(http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l546/Chapin_Place/Weber/resized_2014-11-21144456_zps006a7c0c.jpg)
(http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l546/Chapin_Place/Weber/resized_2014-11-21144501_zpsf762d1a4.jpg)
(http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l546/Chapin_Place/Weber/resized_2014-11-21163318_zps316e4dde.jpg)
(http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l546/Chapin_Place/Weber/resized_2014-11-21164509_zpsa2f1e11c.jpg)
(http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l546/Chapin_Place/Weber/resized_2014-11-21164541_zps07f64195.jpg)
(http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l546/Chapin_Place/Weber/ce2d2e8f-e643-4305-8bd2-02b2e3e516c9_zps0bff39b7.jpg)

Hey thanks for taking one for the team, Pete and posting back about the results. Seems like a pretty simple and effective mod!

it should be called the "gniter mod". 

thanks for posting the info Pete! 

No worries.  It's quite nice.  Not that the manual button is difficult or anything.

With the twisting of wires and losing 1" or so of the black one (I left enough of a tail on the old igniter so it can be re-used at some point if needed) the wires are a straight shot between the button and the igniter.  Not banjo string tight, but I wouldn't want them any shorter.  It is nice having them up and out of the way.

Quote from: GregS on November 21, 2014, 04:38:23 PM
it should be called the "gniter mod".

LOL.  You can actually slide it a little to expose the "I".

Although "gniter" is pretty good.  Took me a minute to see it.

Here it is slid over:
(http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l546/Chapin_Place/Weber/resized_2014-11-21174539_zps143efeb6.jpg)

An update to this.  I was always annoyed by how the flange on the button didn't work with the control panel.  I figured out that I could cut the flange off and scree the button onto the switch.  This turned out really nice and now the button does not interfere at all with the control panel, which now comes on and off really nicely.


The rubber part of the button fills the button hole in the control panel nicely.


(http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l546/Chapin_Place/Weber/2017-04-15%2010.53.14%20Medium_zpsokaw7sgg.jpg) (http://s1123.photobucket.com/user/Chapin_Place/media/Weber/2017-04-15%2010.53.14%20Medium_zpsokaw7sgg.jpg.html)


(http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l546/Chapin_Place/Weber/2017-04-15%2010.53.31%20Medium_zpsgjetiyi0.jpg) (http://s1123.photobucket.com/user/Chapin_Place/media/Weber/2017-04-15%2010.53.31%20Medium_zpsgjetiyi0.jpg.html)


(http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l546/Chapin_Place/Weber/2017-04-15%2010.54.03%20Medium_zpsw2kpifpk.jpg) (http://s1123.photobucket.com/user/Chapin_Place/media/Weber/2017-04-15%2010.54.03%20Medium_zpsw2kpifpk.jpg.html)


(http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l546/Chapin_Place/Weber/2017-04-15%2011.00.00%20Medium_zpsmtktys38.jpg) (http://s1123.photobucket.com/user/Chapin_Place/media/Weber/2017-04-15%2011.00.00%20Medium_zpsmtktys38.jpg.html)


(http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l546/Chapin_Place/Weber/2017-04-15%2011.00.15%20Medium_zpsroosj3bg.jpg) (http://s1123.photobucket.com/user/Chapin_Place/media/Weber/2017-04-15%2011.00.15%20Medium_zpsroosj3bg.jpg.html)


(http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l546/Chapin_Place/Weber/2017-04-15%2011.01.36%20Medium_zpsgzvsxfot.jpg) (http://s1123.photobucket.com/user/Chapin_Place/media/Weber/2017-04-15%2011.01.36%20Medium_zpsgzvsxfot.jpg.html)


(http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l546/Chapin_Place/Weber/2017-04-15%2011.04.20%20Medium_zpsakwjztmu.jpg) (http://s1123.photobucket.com/user/Chapin_Place/media/Weber/2017-04-15%2011.04.20%20Medium_zpsakwjztmu.jpg.html)

@ClubChapin thanks for sharing this cool mod.  I am now officially rooting for the failure of my current ignitor so that I can make this upgrade.

I finally got around to doing this, only 3.5 years later!

I took a few pix in case anyone curious about this mod needed to see just how easy this is. It's practically a "bolt on."

I know several of you have done this in the intervening years, with locating the button/module to a side panel. For this grill, I wanted my gas and ignition both reached in from the top, as Weber designed it.

Exposing the naughty bits:

(http://pics.weberkettleclub.com/images/2018/05/18/IMG_9761.jpg)


The piezo button unscrews from the bottom. The nut is metal but very thin. Expect it to deform. Also, you won't need to completely remove it or even unscrew it much. Slide to the side.

(http://pics.weberkettleclub.com/images/2018/05/18/IMG_9765.jpg)


Three things here:
1) The module fits like a glove under the metal support. It's the perfect size under the support plate and the charcoal bin will still fit.

2) Pete secured his to the control panel and I suppose that's what made the button ride high? I secured the module to the support directly, with the button outside (on top of) the control panel. My SS door doesn't seem to hit it. So I didn't trim anything. And the button still has enough travel to make the necessary electrical contact to complete the circuit.

Note: The plastic nut the module comes with is weak and will "strip" when (easily) overtightened. Just get it tight enough to stay and it should be good to go.

3) You'll need to use a 1/8" female terminal end for the black wire.

(http://pics.weberkettleclub.com/images/2018/05/18/IMG_9766.jpg)

(http://pics.weberkettleclub.com/images/2018/05/18/IMG_9767.jpg)

Quote from: addicted-to-smoke on May 18, 2018, 06:17:49 PM

What took so long?  It's a 2 minute upgrade

... aye, but I move very slowly in matters that involve my "original box of lights" and daily cooker!

Quote from: addicted-to-smoke on May 18, 2018, 06:17:49 PM2) Pete secured his to the control panel and I suppose that's what made the button ride high? I secured the module to the support directly, with the button outside (on top of) the control panel. My SS door doesn't seem to hit it. So I didn't trim anything. And the button still has enough travel to make the necessary electrical contact to complete the circuit.

On mine, it is secured to the frame the same.  It's the button with the silver trim that sat on top of the control panel.  The thread on the button barely engaged with the switch.  I needed to cut off the silver nut flange so the whole assembly fits better and feels solid.


Now, I don't need to remove the button to lift the control panel. 

Not sure if the hole on my CP is smaller or if maybe my CP is higher.

The hole on my CP is the exact same size as the silicone part of the button.


Under the table is the correct location for the ingniter. 

Roger that. I mistook one of your pics showing the igniter assembly without the control panel to mean why you had trimmed the button. (I so rarely remove my CP that I don't mind unscrewing/removing the button.)