I saw saxart's thread about this.
http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/weber-kettles-accessories/how-i-cleaned-up-some-smokey-joe-legs/
I don't really want to go the muriatic acid route.
A recent acquisition of a Jumbo Joe (SJP) ... M code, has presented me with this issue. Rusted hardware, and rust at the leg tabs.
I will most likely replace the hardware, as some was damaged when removing. Everything was nearly seized on.
What (if anything) can I do to try to remove this rust?
Or, do I live with it, as I don't necessarily have a problem with that. Just exploring some options.
Thanks.
(http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n615/MacEggs/IMG_3690.jpg) (http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/MacEggs/media/IMG_3690.jpg.html)
(http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n615/MacEggs/IMG_3691.jpg) (http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/MacEggs/media/IMG_3691.jpg.html)
Maybe some vinegar & baking soda on this...............
(http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n615/MacEggs/IMG_3690.jpg) (http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/MacEggs/media/IMG_3690.jpg.html)
These.....just slap some BBQ sauce in there & chow down...........
(http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n615/MacEggs/IMG_3691.jpg) (http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/MacEggs/media/IMG_3691.jpg.html)
Just had some rust issues myself. I use a drill with a wire wheel. It gets rid of the nasty stuff but don't count on seeing a shine when you're done. Replace the hardware with SS.
Do you have any CLR? You may be suprised at how effective it is.
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
Quote from: MacEggs on August 31, 2014, 08:48:27 AM
I don't really want to go the muriatic acid route.
Why not? :D
If you want the natural, safe and low cost way, use vinegar.
After it soaks for a few days, clean it with some emery paper.
Repaint it and your done.
There are other ways, but vinegar is the cheapest and easiest. And Safest!
8)
Thanks everyone for the advice! :D
Quote from: saxart on August 31, 2014, 07:56:05 PM
Quote from: MacEggs on August 31, 2014, 08:48:27 AM
I don't really want to go the muriatic acid route.
Why not? :D
Your thread is great, but, that stuff looks nasty.
Besides, I have enough burns on my arms from oven cleaner.
I currently have them in 10% acid vinegar along with baking soda. Will probably let it go for a few days.
I dont think I have a "before" picture, but these were full of 50 years of Rust. This is after they spent 8 hours in CLR. The one on the right was dipped for 3 more hours before it was fully cleaned.
(http://s21.postimg.org/3w8za4mhj/thumbscrew.jpg)
Nice job with the rust removal.
The Weber hardware is thinly plated.
I often replace it with stainless steel when possible.
Quote from: G$ on September 01, 2014, 06:07:25 AM
I dont think I have a "before" picture, but these were full of 50 years of Rust. This is after they spent 8 hours in CLR. The one on the right was dipped for 3 more hours before it was fully cleaned.
(http://s21.postimg.org/3w8za4mhj/thumbscrew.jpg)
That looks outstanding! I found some CLR under the sink in my basement bathroom. I'm on it. :D Thanks!
Another strong supporter of the CLR! I've also found that some items will show hardly any change after even a few hours soaking, but by morning it's worked it's magic and most rust will brush away with a soft wire brush.
I may have to try the Muriatic acid on a real nasty piece just for fun ;)
Here's a product called evaporust (evaporust.com) that works great on rust. I was lucky enough to find it through a local auto parts store. Call around, this stuff is amazing. I think they sell a quart bottle but the gallon was a better deal.
Stupid questions: Are these legs chrome plated steel? Or, SS?
Clearly the hardware was not SS, then rusted over years of neglect.
I'm fairly new to Weber collecting and restoration, but I've been chasing rust away from things for decades. One of my favorite tools for the job is the SandFlex blocks from German abrasive manufacturer, Klingspor. Here's a link: http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/sa99998/
They make three different grits, but I find the middle (green) one to be the most used one. The rubberized nature of the blocks gets down in nooks and crannies to get the rust out, without abrading away details, like engravings.
Quote from: MacEggs on September 01, 2014, 09:52:37 AM
Stupid questions: Are these legs chrome plated steel? Or, SS?
Clearly the hardware was not SS, then rusted over years of neglect.
The legs have traditionally been aluminum- great since it doesn't rust but soft. It scratches easily and still oxidizes to become cloudy. The new legs look like cheap plated metal, but I have'nt verified that the material has changed.
Quote from: MacEggs on September 01, 2014, 05:42:10 AM
Your thread is great, but, that stuff looks nasty.
LOL Yeah, I hear ya. It's not exactly lemonade. ;D
Regardless of whichever acidic rust clean up is chosen, it's good to remember that it will either completely remove the protective plating or highly diminish it, so it's important to put a protective clear-coat on the hardware once the rust is removed to keep it from rusting again.
Quote from: pbe gummi bear on September 01, 2014, 03:38:51 PM
Quote from: MacEggs on September 01, 2014, 09:52:37 AM
Stupid questions: Are these legs chrome plated steel? Or, SS?
Clearly the hardware was not SS, then rusted over years of neglect.
The legs have traditionally been aluminum- great since it doesn't rust but soft. It scratches easily and still oxidizes to become cloudy. The new legs look like cheap plated metal, but I have'nt verified that the material has changed.
These legs are quite sturdy and heavy. And a magnet sticks to them no problem ... not aluminum.
Just wondering if I could polish them after the CLR treatment ... Which by the way is working wonders on the rust. Thanks, guys! :)
Quote from: saxart on September 01, 2014, 04:33:35 PM
Quote from: MacEggs on September 01, 2014, 05:42:10 AM
Your thread is great, but, that stuff looks nasty.
LOL Yeah, I hear ya. It's not exactly lemonade. ;D
Regardless of whichever acidic rust clean up is chosen, it's good to remember that it will either completely remove the protective plating or highly diminish it, so it's important to put a protective clear-coat on the hardware once the rust is removed to keep it from rusting again.
Thanks, Art! I will definitely keep that in mind. :D
MacEggs, I have good success with this product.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj623/glrasmussen/3145343E-57E4-4EDF-9C70-B2A4AB9213D0_zps9xw68cil.jpg) (http://s1271.photobucket.com/user/glrasmussen/media/3145343E-57E4-4EDF-9C70-B2A4AB9213D0_zps9xw68cil.jpg.html)
This was less than a minute each wheel. Toothbrush and rinse.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj623/glrasmussen/5C5F4056-DF64-4B09-A38B-BCF8C714A031_zpso6lkq87s.jpg) (http://s1271.photobucket.com/user/glrasmussen/media/5C5F4056-DF64-4B09-A38B-BCF8C714A031_zpso6lkq87s.jpg.html)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj623/glrasmussen/19EDB91F-3C66-4890-B629-F030D02748D3_zpsnxg2mwpm.jpg) (http://s1271.photobucket.com/user/glrasmussen/media/19EDB91F-3C66-4890-B629-F030D02748D3_zpsnxg2mwpm.jpg.html)
Damn... Those wheelers look almost brand new.. 8)
Thank you to everyone for their help with the rust issue. :D :D
I had some CLR on hand, so I ended up going with that, and it worked great!
@glrasmussen, I would love to get my hands on that stuff ... However, I don't think it's available up here. Looks like it works .. and fast! :)
I replaced the hardware with SS.
What do you guys use to get the lid vent nice and shiny?
I find that even 0000 steel wool leaves some fine looking scratches.
It would be remiss of me if I didn't mention the teamwork involved in acquiring this SJP.
@Lerxst was instrumental in the price negotiation ... He then passed along the emails to me.
I then arranged with the seller to pick this up as it was much too far for Lerxst to pick it up. Thanks, buddy! :D
Here was the original one-and-only pic from the kijiji ad, followed by some before and after:
(http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n615/MacEggs/_20-5.jpg) (http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/MacEggs/media/_20-5.jpg.html)
(http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n615/MacEggs/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3658.jpg) (http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/MacEggs/media/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3658.jpg.html)
(http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n615/MacEggs/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3659.jpg) (http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/MacEggs/media/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3659.jpg.html)
(http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n615/MacEggs/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3656.jpg) (http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/MacEggs/media/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3656.jpg.html)
(http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n615/MacEggs/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3657.jpg) (http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/MacEggs/media/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3657.jpg.html)
(http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n615/MacEggs/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3655.jpg) (http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/MacEggs/media/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3655.jpg.html)
(http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n615/MacEggs/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3654.jpg) (http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/MacEggs/media/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3654.jpg.html)
(http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n615/MacEggs/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3653.jpg) (http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/MacEggs/media/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3653.jpg.html)
(http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n615/MacEggs/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3718.jpg) (http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/MacEggs/media/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3718.jpg.html)
(http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n615/MacEggs/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3719.jpg) (http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/MacEggs/media/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3719.jpg.html)
(http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n615/MacEggs/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3720.jpg) (http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/MacEggs/media/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3720.jpg.html)
(http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n615/MacEggs/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3721.jpg) (http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/MacEggs/media/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3721.jpg.html)
(http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n615/MacEggs/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3722.jpg) (http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/MacEggs/media/Smokey%20Joe/IMG_3722.jpg.html)
Looks great Mac! I usually finish the vent with Mothers, using a 0000 as the applicator.
nice job Mac!!!
i've been using this will good results. typically i let stuff soak for 12-?? hours depending if i remember it's soaking. a light sanding with 300-400 grit after and it comes out nice. no sanding needed on the hardware.
(http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x164/gregs1020/Weber%20Kettles/20140914_181003_zpsmsoayygp.jpg)
that bottle was $9 at autozone. it says it's reusable but it got pretty black from the almost trashed stuff i had in it.