Weber Kettle Club Forums
Grill Talk => Weber Mods, Tables and Customs => Topic started by: MantisToboganJr on April 07, 2021, 11:37:51 AM
-
I am starting a build on a 26" kettle performer. I am sure this has been asked 1M times, but can anyone provide tips and tricks for drilling through the kettle (for Unknown BBQ brackets) while minimizing damage to the enamel, if sealing the bare metal is advised, products, etc.?
Thanks in advance.
- Mantis
-
I would put a couple of pieces of painters tape at the drill location to help prevent bit walking. I would likely start with a much smaller drill bit and work my way up.
-
I used a lot of painters tape to cover the surrounding area in case of a slip. My biggest advice is to start with a small pilot bit, then
step up one more size before doing your final drill. I did this and had almost perfect drill points. Don't rush let the bit do the work,
and don't press down on the kettle if on it's side. It will change the geometry with to much downward pressure. It's really not as bad as
I thought it would be. After you make it through the first hole and have your technique the rest are a breeze. If you doing have some chipping
around the hole it will be very minimal if done correctly and the screws/brackets will hide this.
-
Good advice above, also consider a step bit after the initial small hole is drilled.
Sent from my iPad using Weber Kettle Club (https://siteowners.tapatalk.com/byo/displayAndDownloadByoApp?rid=91018)
-
As for sealing the exposed edge, hi-temp enamel paint would likely do the trick. Spray some in the lid of the cap and use a brush to apply a couple of light coats.
-
Painters tape, use a small drill bit to start a hole, then use a step up bit and take your time. I would also recommend having a good works space to set the bowl down while you are working on it. It can be a bit of a bear to get a hole started so you might have to get a good grip on the bowl to make the push. Finish with a little hi-temp paint around the hole and use stainless steel hardware to discourage rust.
It is kind of funny how one little mistake otherwise result in the porcelain chipping, but when drilling it sometimes seems like it is bulletproof armor. :p
-
Another thought and I hate the word Dremel. Dremel with the smallest stone grinding bit, mark your location and proceed with the dremel to scuff the porcelain prior to adding tape and then drilling could help with the bit walking and with the potential of chipping as the grinding would soften the proposed drilling location.
-
Tape, then center punch WITH A WOOD BLOCK SUPPORTING THE INSIDE OF THE AREA directly behind the punch mark location, drill pilot through tape.
Use step drill or bigger bits depending on final diameter wanted.
Spray some hi temp aerosol paint into a disposable catcher like a Solo cup & apply the the bare metal with a Q-tip. Maybe several coats.(https://i.imgur.com/RO9WsTl.jpg)
-
Agree with all of the above. It's amazing how fast the larger bits go through when you step them up all the way from your smallest bit. High speed isn't the best speed either; I found that a nice steady medium speed made even more filings than going full throttle.
Another trick... when you are marking your holes, do it with the grill grate in place. You can trace all the way across from one side of the kettle to the other by following the grate lines. This makes sure your brackets are a perfect 180 degrees opposite each other.
-
I wouldn't use a step drill bit on a curved enamel surface.
Drill a small hole and enlarge with a carbide burr bit. For smaller holes use 1/8" shaft dremel burr and 1/4" shaft die grinder burr bits. You'll end up with smooth holes without chipped or cracked enamel.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210411/eda82834b9c65a42162e8dca1d71c6fd.jpg)
1/8" shaft
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210411/a6bc6ded93df12062e9e545c4d56401a.jpg)
1/4" shaft.