Weber Kettle Club Forums
Grill Talk => Weber Grill Forum (Grills, Accessories) => Topic started by: pbe gummi bear on May 13, 2013, 09:47:31 AM
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Hi, So I enjoy working on my Weber's as much as cooking on them. I have a sweet spot for the SS performers. I really enjoy the quality of the materials and how it looks all business like. I have had one for a while, but this past Friday I was able to acquire a complete red. This is my story. :)
Red SS acquisition
So I have been cooking on a black SS for a while. It was in decent shape, but well used. Last Friday a red one popped up on CL about 25 miles from my house. The listing went up for $100 at 9:00am, I emailed them at 9:15am, and had it home that afternoon.
Original FS Thread: http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/trading-post/red-performer-$100/
CL picture:
(http://images.craigslist.org/3L73F33N55L85Na5G9d5adb5ae22e3eb91312.jpg)
I drove up to Tiburon on the Northern part of the bay. The view there was spectacular!
In the back of my truck:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/941353_965617013608_388274796_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/970714_966857178308_291853321_n.jpg)
Overall the Red was in good shape and even came with a user manual. Some rusting near the top handle welds, two small dings at the lid lip, and cracks at the welds holding the grate. Ashcatcher completely rusted out, snapped handle. Igniter did not work, but the gas would work when lit with a match.
I decided that I would keep the best parts of each of my performers and sell what was left over.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/942848_966857163338_380649113_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/970801_966857173318_1838309709_n.jpg)
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Performer disassembly.
My goal was to take the best parts of each performer and keep that as the chassis for the red bowl. So I went to town disassembling the performer. I also didn't want to spend too much time on this build since I would be flipping it immediately.
Start:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/942848_966857163338_380649113_n.jpg)
The Bowl comes off the cart with 4 7/16" sockets. Don't forget to disconnect the ingiter and regulator before you remove it or they may pull back and cause you to drop the bowl. I also removed the tray above the gas tank and the storage bin. Both pull right off
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/944270_966857243178_644850349_n.jpg)
Once the bowl is removed, you can take off the smaller SS panel. The larger SS panel comes off with this toggle bar underneath. Carefully put a screwdriver under and try it up. it should pop out, allowing you to remove the panel. This one was rusted so did not pull out like it was supposed to. I could have lubed it with pb blaster or liquid wrench but since this was a flipper i didnt want to spend too much time on it so I left it. It was a shame because this ss panel is little better than then one I already had. Oh well.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/923465_966857258148_85750274_n.jpg)
Completely gutted. Note the surface rust. It took me about 5 min to get to this point. In the first pic you can see 7/16" hex bolts at the ends of the top horizontal bar. If you remove those, The top panel rectangle frame will pull up out of the vertical tubes. In the second pic you can see the hex bolts at the ends of the horizontal support that holds the dire shelf. If you remove those the left set of legs will come apart from the right set. The infamous star nuts are located inside those tubes.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/486811_966857278108_1438120676_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/248061_966857328008_1335247800_n.jpg)
Tools
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/247604_966857402858_1162188028_n.jpg)
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Cleaning up for listing
I needed to give the frame a bath. I used a hose, some 0000 steelwool as a sponge, and a spray bottle of soapy water.
Rub a dub dub
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/936716_966857347968_997177043_n.jpg)
The steel wool was able to get rid of the majority of the rusty stains and nicks on the frame. The surface was weirdly oxidized and had a very faint fim of rust on it. At first i used only 0000 to scrub it. It worked ok but was taking longer than I wanted.
Left side is before, right side is after using 0000 only. MAKE SURE YOU SCRUB IN THE DIRECTION OF THE SS GRAIN
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/941882_966857367928_464503214_n.jpg)
I then let Bar Keeper friend soak on the surface for a few min, rubbed in with 0000 and let dry. In the meantime, I prepped my Black bowl. Here is the final result.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/971270_966857567528_685610343_n.jpg)
I then mounted the bowl on the cart so that I could clean that. I didnt have over cleaner so I just let some dishsoap soak.
Bowl before, sorry no inside pics:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/943650_966857442778_2080621502_n.jpg)
I then scraped the bowl with my custom made scraper. The contour is perfectly curved to fit the bowl. The plastic is hard enough to scrape most stubborn grime, while not scratching the finish.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/936784_966857462738_79728261_n.jpg)
Last but not least, I mounted everything back on.
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Listing ? Are you selling it ?
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Touch N' Go Gas assist repair
Sorry no pics here right now, but here is what I did to fix my igniter.
First I made sure that the there was still propane. I could feel the liquid in the tank, hear it when opened, and use a match to light the burner tube. But my igniter didn't work.
Here is my igniter fixing flowchart:
0. Make sure the igniter button isnt wet.
1. Is there liquid propane still in tank? Shake it lightly and feel for it.
2. Connect all the lines.
3. Are you getting good propane flow through the tube, and regulator? Open the valve on the tank. you should be able to hear the tank hissing when you open it and smell the propane. DO NOT STICK YOUR HEAD IN THE BOWL. If you don't hear the hissing or smell, close the valve. There is another brass valve parallel to the regulator hose. Make sure that little valve handle is open (pointing parallel to or along the hose). If you don't here hissing still your regulator is probably shot.
4. Try to ignite the flame with the igniter push button or a match. If the igniter button works, great! But it probably won't. If the match works you can skip the tube cleaning step 5, but it is still useful.
5. Clean the burner tube. To begin fixing the gas assist pop off the clip at the end of the igniter tube. Removing this tube by taking off the igniter ground wire / element and loosening the tube clamp with a slotted screwdriver or wrench will make this a hell of alot easier. You dont need to remove the clamp. Just loosen it and pull the tube into the bowl. You can't pull the tube out without completely taking off the clamp because of the flat end that is wider. Look inside the tube. Chances are there will be ashcrud and cobwebs in it. Clean this all out with water. You can also use sandpaper on the tube to make it nice and shinier again.
6. Update: 5/2/14 with the igniter still assembled to the tube, push the igniter while peeking through the propane orifice side. If it's good you should see a spark. You might be able to do this while the burner is still on the cart but remove it if you need the space. If it's good, move to #7. If not, try the fix below. (Credit to Bman for the tip!)
Alternative way to test the igniter: Hold the igniter wires in one hand and push the buttton with the other. IT SHOULD LIGHTLY SHOCK YOU like static on a doorknob so if you easily yell expletives make sure there are no kids around. If it didn't shock you, your piezo is dead so buy a new igniter. If it shocked you, we can fix it!
Fixing igniter: Take some sand paper and lightly sand the igniter tip and ground until it's clean bare metal. It's pretty stout but be careful not to break it. Also make sure that the ground wire and bolt is not excessively rusty or you may not get a good connection. Mine was moderately rusty but it still worked.
7. Reassemble and retest. Everything should work now. If not, sell your performer and buy a big green egg.
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I sold the black one already. I offered it to Buckie with a WKC discount but he passed on it.
Listing ? Are you selling it ?
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Now that everything was fixed I dried the Black SS off, and staged my pics. It came out amazingly well. Total elapsed time: 1hr.
(http://images.craigslist.org/3E63I63He5E95K45M3d5a5651961b36c31ced.jpg)
(http://images.craigslist.org/3F93M23Jd5N25Ie5G7d5a1062e1f6b8911fc2.jpg)
(http://images.craigslist.org/3G83Me3F95I25N75G6d5ab8cf5981002611e0.jpg)
(http://images.craigslist.org/3F93Jc3H85N55F45H5d5ad5b14780d57b1788.jpg)
(http://images.craigslist.org/3E23M23H85G35K85H2d5a441baad41ca8132d.jpg)
(http://images.craigslist.org/3E23G53I25N95E15F3d5af75e49b9d93d140c.jpg)
(http://images.craigslist.org/3Ec3G13M15La5Ge5M1d5acf7ad6500f561d36.jpg)
(http://images.craigslist.org/3G63Jd3N45L55E25Had5a0768ca85c7e61e1d.jpg)
I put it up for $150 around 9pm Friday. I had 2 people email me within 30 min. 6 more people by the time I woke up, and 13 people before I sold it. The first person wanted to pay me that day via paypal and pick it up on Monday. Unfortunately I had no place to store it until then so I called the second guy. He was really knowledgable about the performer and had alot of questions but ended up passing on it. Third person picked it up right away for $150 and everyone was happy!
To recap, I was able to sell the SS for a $50 profit minus gas ($10), time, and effort. I was also able to get a redhead SS for myself. The Redhead is a work in progress. Will update you all on that one shortly.
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If this was the "worst" parts then the red should be a show room piece when your done! Excellent job!!! 8)
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Super helpful and well detailed! I'm looking at doing this to a green performer that I should be getting tonight.
Then, I might create the first (that I've seen) SS C&B Grey and sell off a greenie.
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I almost made the SS with grey C&B two weeks ago but I hesitated on the purchase and lost it. :-( I'm excited for you though, I would love to see that combo.
Super helpful and well detailed! I'm looking at doing this to a green performer that I should be getting tonight.
Then, I might create the first (that I've seen) SS C&B Grey and sell off a greenie.
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Getting started on the Red SS. Before pics and ash sweep removals.
So the day after I set out to clean up the Red. The lid has some rust around the lid handles, two small scratches on the lid lip, and chipped porcelain on the bowl welds. It also had a rusted out ashcatcher.
Before pics:
Bowl and Craycorts
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/936812_966857552558_234435466_n.jpg)
Rusted out ash catcher
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/247522_966857647368_909059124_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/969363_966857737188_265154627_n.jpg)
Lid vent
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/941243_966857662338_786154799_n.jpg)
Handle
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/971085_966857702258_223416963_n.jpg)
Two lid scratches
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/r180/971493_966857712238_2097574120_n.jpg)
Dings- also note the snapped off one touch handle
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/945198_966857757148_337618188_n.jpg)
First thing to tackle was to remove the ash sweeper. I used a 5" variable speed angle grinder but you can also use a dremel or hack saw
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/942163_966857846968_1337393360_n.jpg)
The 5" wheel just fits. The ash catcher bar also protects the bowl
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/969254_966857782098_2138086671_n.jpg)
Make sure you cut right next to the Hex, otherwise the leftover metal will not fit through the hole. I was lucky because I only had to do one side.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/408522_966857876908_950297722_n.jpg)
Removed!
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/945020_966857891878_1820738311_n.jpg)
All this rust was just from the ash catcher:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/431892_966857921818_2005618597_n.jpg)
Total elapsed time: 15 min
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Interior Bowl cleaning
I used easy off on the inside of the lid and bowl. I sprayed generously, closed the lid and left it in the sun for 10 min.
I used the ash catcher pieces to cover the bottom vent and contain the fumes.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/945090_966857951758_2088505192_n.jpg)
after ten min I put on protective gloves, and scraped the interior bowl and lid with my trusty scraper. After that, I gave it a good hose down. Here is the after pic. I forgot to take a pic of the lid but its clean too. ;) New ash sweep also installed.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/936743_966858036588_50655593_n.jpg)
Total elapsed time: 20 min
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Polishing stuff.
I couldn't find red high heat paint so I had to hold off the painting for a while. I decided to polish the thermometer cover. First I used 00 steel wool and soapy water. Then I switched to 0000.
Before
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/431830_966857956748_664856081_n.jpg)
After
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/431885_966858011638_49795747_n.jpg)
Total elapsed time: 20 min
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Wow! Nicely done! Thanks for sharing. :D
Nice view, too! I remember visiting that area in the mid '80s when I was a teenager. :D 8)
A beautiful area, indeed.
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Wow! Nicely done! Thanks for sharing. :D
Nice view, too! I remember visiting that area in the mid '80s when I was a teenager. :D 8)
A beautiful area, indeed.
Thanks, Mac!
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Nice job and useful tips!
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Great posts, Lawrence! Thanks for the inspiration. I might head out in the dark and polish up my thermo holder with 0000 steel wool, I'm so excited.
And we use the same bowl scraper! A great, cheap, perfect tool.
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Mike, just pop it off and bring it to where there is some light lol. Why stop there? I'm going to do the top vent too but feel free to beat me to it.
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The Bar Keepers Friend did amazing things to that SS top. I have Top Saver which I use on my CI table saw and plan on using during my SS cleanup. I just need to finish a couple other restore's before I tear into it. Thanks for the picture story as I can see what I'm getting to before grabbing a wrench. :)
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Yes it did Bman! But it doesnt remove the grain or micropitting. If you look closely at the black listing you can see the remnants of a wavy rust spot. I think the po put a wavy steel thing on it that rusted and spread over the entire surface. It's very uncharacteristic of ss to do that on it's own. On the next table I'm gonna polish all the micro scratches off with a sandpaper progression.
The Bar Keepers Friend did amazing things to that SS top. I have Top Saver which I use on my CI table saw and plan on using during my SS cleanup. I just need to finish a couple other restore's before I tear into it. Thanks for the picture story as I can see what I'm getting to before grabbing a wrench. :)
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Thanks for a great informative and inspiring post!
I have that same (or similar) angle grinder and I'm surprised how often I use it. I didn't use it today but I did use it last week to cut some concrete reinforcing wire.
I did a restore today but much less ambitious. 8) ;D
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Hey Lawrence, they look awesome....I can think of something else that would make these even look better!
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Hi Hank, this was actually the first time I used it. I got is a gift a while back and I know how useful they are. Previously I was more of a dremel kind of guy so a grinder was very intimidating. It is nice not to have to spend 5 bucks on a new reinforced cutoff wheel every time I cut something beefier
Thanks for a great informative and inspiring post!
I have that same (or similar) angle grinder and I'm surprised how often I use it. I didn't use it today but I did use it last week to cut some concrete reinforcing wire.
I did a restore today but much less ambitious. 8) ;D
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Hey B I have the walnut performer set you made for me going on it. I just borrowed it for the WSM trifecta photoshoot, lol. I'll need one for that WSM too soon though. :P
Hey Lawrence, they look awesome....I can think of something else that would make these even look better!
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Gums, you are SICK. SICK!!!
Fantastic work. If I had the cash, I'd fly you to chicago so you can help me with my Red S/S.
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Hey B I have the walnut performer set you made for me going on it. I just borrowed it for the WSM trifecta photoshoot, lol. I'll need one for that WSM too soon though. :P
Hey Lawrence, they look awesome....I can think of something else that would make these even look better!
I forgot you got some already!
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Hey B I have the walnut performer set you made for me going on it. I just borrowed it for the WSM trifecta photoshoot, lol. I'll need one for that WSM too soon though. :P
Hey Lawrence, they look awesome....I can think of something else that would make these even look better!
I forgot you got some already!
Yeah these babies are going on them soon:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/r180/417885_961452898528_324557713_n.jpg)
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Did you get it? :-X
Super helpful and well detailed! I'm looking at doing this to a green performer that I should be getting tonight.
Then, I might create the first (that I've seen) SS C&B Grey and sell off a greenie.
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Informative post Lawrence. I like your step by step in time it took. You did some great work. I disassembled a bunch of ss's and do things about the same as you did.
Troy...if you want some help with yours, bring it by in June and drop it off. I'd work on it for you.
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Did you get it? :-X
Super helpful and well detailed! I'm looking at doing this to a green performer that I should be getting tonight.
Then, I might create the first (that I've seen) SS C&B Grey and sell off a greenie.
I did actually get it. It is in tougher shape than I expected and I didn't have time to do much other than unload it. I'll put up its own post after I take some pics so as not to hijack this helpful thread, but since you asked I did pick it up. It has warped charcoal grate, junk cooking grate, no charcoal baskets, 2 bowl dings about the size of a half dollar (WTF-on a performer? How?) and worst of all, a HOLE where the lid bale should attach. It's also filthy. On the plus side, it came with, a weber chimney, 5lb propane tank, Performer cover, a nifty charcoal scoop and a brand new kettle tool hook that will go right on my red 18". Also, it was a gas assist SSP for $25 (actually, the most I've spent on a performer yet). So that part was also good.
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I did actually get it. It is in tougher shape than I expected and I didn't have time to do much other than unload it. I'll put up its own post after I take some pics so as not to hijack this helpful thread, but since you asked I did pick it up. It has warped charcoal grate, junk cooking grate, no charcoal baskets, 2 bowl dings about the size of a half dollar (WTF-on a performer? How?) and worst of all, a HOLE where the lid bale should attach. It's also filthy. On the plus side, it came with, a weber chimney, 5lb propane tank, Performer cover, a nifty charcoal scoop and a brand new kettle tool hook that will go right on my red 18". Also, it was a gas assist SSP for $25 (actually, the most I've spent on a performer yet). So that part was also good.
That's great! Yeah the grates get warped from the super high heat of the torch and baskets. I'm looking forward to seeing pics of it.
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I too have noticed that the bottom grates get pretty distorted on the Performers. I think it's the combination of the upward heat of the burner flame and the downward heat of a chimney full of charcoal. Right in the middle there is some pretty intense heat, I imagine. I replaced the bottom grate on my Performer last fall, and it's already getting all wiggy.
And jkolantern, you can still get those old-school wire-style coal baskets from Weber if you like. I can't find the part number anywhere, unfortunately, but they will sell them to you. Or if you prefer the newer stamped-metal style, I've got a hot tip: Weber will sell you a set of them in a retail box for like $18/pair, or if you purchase them individually you can get them for $3.75/apiece. The stock number for the individual baskets is #62423.
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I just happen to have the pre-2000 Performer schematic in front of me. The Wire Charcoal Baskets are part #960080
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I know I'm late on this but Great job PBE!! you do outstanding work!
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Thanks Bob! This is an ongoing project for me so I hope to update it soon. I'm waiting on some parts at the moment
I know I'm late on this but Great job PBE!! you do outstanding work!
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And jkolantern, you can still get those old-school wire-style coal baskets from Weber if you like.
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/wire-charcoal-basket-p-1477460.html
$8.80 US each.
(http://www.ereplacementparts.com/images/part_p_1477460_2110791073_med.gif)
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Thanks, Bman.
And nice catch, Hank! That's about what I paid Weber for mine. Then I found a whole SS Performer complete with wire coal baskets the next week for just $25 total. Murphy's Law, I guess, but I'm not complaining.
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I'm definitely hopping onto 2 of these. Thanks for the link.
And jkolantern, you can still get those old-school wire-style coal baskets from Weber if you like.
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/wire-charcoal-basket-p-1477460.html
$8.80 US each.
(http://www.ereplacementparts.com/images/part_p_1477460_2110791073_med.gif)
I ordered an 11# propane tank from amazon and adapter that I am going to fit onto the SS. The tank comes tomorrow and the adapter hose comes in Thu.
Tank
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41cZktXGqdL._SY450_.jpg)
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Thanks, Bman.
And nice catch, Hank! That's about what I paid Weber for mine. Then I found a whole SS Performer complete with wire coal baskets the next week for just $25 total. Murphy's Law, I guess, but I'm not complaining.
I did a very similar thing on my first Performer! Bought my C&B grey with wasted pop metal baskets, didn't know the old ones were still available, and shelled out like $16 bucks at the Depot for a set of the new style ones...then bought an SSP with the old school baskets for $20.
The green I bought will just be a fix & flip I think so I'll let the new owner buy baskets...I can't fully justify keeping 2 performers, let alone 3, with all my other grills.
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Working on the gas line
So my tank came in this week. I was so excited! I could have saved a few bucks by going with a 20# but the 11# fits so much nicer. It's a little larger than the 5# tank- trying to hang it on the standard hook causes the tank body to hit the front panel of the performer. To make matters worse, the wide handle hole that is on the collar is 90deg in the wrong direction. Looks like I have another part to make.
In the meantime I needed to rig together a gas line for the kettle. My regulator should still work but I needed the QCC1 adapter. So I ordered this pigtail adapter from amazon for $10
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-59053-Tail-Propane-Connector/dp/B0014E3MSS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368939307&sr=8-1&keywords=RV+propane+pigtail (http://www.amazon.com/Camco-59053-Tail-Propane-Connector/dp/B0014E3MSS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368939307&sr=8-1&keywords=RV+propane+pigtail)
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21Wi0JyBCxL._SX385_.jpg)
IT DOES NOT FIT THE REGULATOR- The fitting at the end is 1/4" NPT and the regulator to quick connect is 5/16" Oops. So I bought a 5/16" NPT barb adapter from the hardware store.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/943533_969196719848_1429318970_n.jpg)
Unfortunately the hardware store didn't have a 5/16" NPT fitting with 1/8" or 3/16" ID barb. This one is a 1/4" ID barb- The same ID as the tube. It was a b!tch to put on, but I hoseclamped it securely.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/r270/603728_969196355578_268735673_n.jpg)
Completed regulator
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/946530_969196699888_1453340852_n.jpg)
Still to go:
Restoring the SS grain
Kettle touch up
Repainting the frame
Plastidipping the lid bale
Making the propane mount
Filling the propane
Detail work
Since this performer is out of commission for the moment I used the WSM this week. I made 6 spatchcocked chicken on Thursday. Here is the top rack and the bottom rack is in similar formation.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/935792_968500200678_1876822169_n.jpg)
It's nice having Multiple Webers sometimes! :D
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I realized I should probably share my rationale why I went this route with the regulator.
I basically had 4 options
1. Get the old 5# tank recertified
2. Buy the new style performer regulator assembly
3. Buy the old style assembly with the OPD/QCC1 adapter.
4. The Gummi Bear option- new tank with normal modern valve, but adapt the existing regulator.
Option 2:
(http://www.ereplacementparts.com/images/part_p_1477523_702566114_med.gif)
available here: http://www.ereplacementparts.com/regulator-assembly-p-1477523.html
Option 3:
(http://www.ereplacementparts.com/images/part_p_1477479_2534160992_med.gif)
available here: http://www.ereplacementparts.com/hose-and-regulator-assembly-p-1477479.html
I decided against 1 because at the end of the day I would still have an old tank that is difficult to fill and would be specific to my performer. I called around a few places to see if they would fill an RV quick connect but I soon realized I didn't want to go through the hassle. I decided against #2 because it would cost me about 40 dollars in parts and I don't like discarding parts that still work- ie. my existing line and regulator. I would have also had to make a custom bracket for the valve that is oriented 90deg from the tank, and disposable tanks aren't economic and environmentally friendly. #3 is an attractive option but I didn't realize until very recently that they introduced this at the end of the ss life cycle. Even if I went this route, I would need a new valve on my tank.
I like the 11# tank because it can be filled at any station, portable enough to take on trips, and fit underneath the table cleanly. Aesthetics were very important to me and a 20# tank would have stuck way too much.
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Good looking chicken, what color are you plastidipping the lid bale?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
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WOW! How did I miss this post!? Outstanding restore jobs Lawrence! This will definitely help for when I eventually find that Holy Grail SS red. This needs to be archived. Very Nice!! :D
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I'm gonna be the bad guy here and say that the Hose connected with a barbed fitting is not the best idea. Hose clamps are not meant to hold propane pressure. Sure its only under pressure for a few minutes, but any leak could be dangerous. I trust Gummi is aware and will keep an eye on it.
My suggestion is to get the updated parts or do what I did, I replaced the connector that threads directly into the regulator. Be sure to use the correct thread sealent for a gas fitting.
Lawrence, the rest of your build is fantastic! I just don't want anyone to get hurt while enjoying their bbq. AJ 8)
(http://www.tejassmokers.com/images/acmeblack.jpg)
(http://www.tejassmokers.com/images/acmeblackreg.jpg)
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I'm gonna be the bad guy here and say that the Hose connected with a barbed fitting is not the best idea. Hose clamps are not meant to hold propane pressure. Sure its only under pressure for a few minutes, but any leak could be dangerous. I trust Gummi is aware and will keep an eye on it.
My suggestion is to get the updated parts or do what I did, I replaced the connector that threads directly into the regulator. Be sure to use the correct thread sealent for a gas fitting.
Lawrence, the rest of your build is fantastic! I just don't want anyone to get hurt while enjoying their bbq. AJ 8)
(http://www.tejassmokers.com/images/acmeblack.jpg)
(http://www.tejassmokers.com/images/acmeblackreg.jpg)
Thanks for the tip, AJ. You bring up a good point! Better safe than sorry. Ill update it soon. :)
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Yeah, was going to say at least put another hose clamp up near the "green" end.....those clamps are really for liquid instead of gas......
OK for temp. I suppose.....
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Also, not sure about the green fitting, I though they were only used for high pressure? It may just be to let you know what type of propane system is being used. AJ
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Gas regulator update
I've decided that I was going to give up the Gummi Bear option #4 and try to adapt this regulator to the new tank. Thanks, HeyJude and 1Buckie for looking out for me. I've seen some ghetto rigged propane setups from asian food carts but I'd rather be safe than sorry. I am going to order the complete regulator setup with the QCC1 connector Option #3 above for the following reasons:
-Current QCC1 connections are 1/4" NPT standard, not 5/16" like the input end of the regulator. There is barely any support for this size anymore, and I have been searching.
-Barb fittings are not reccomended for propane (Thanks, AJ!). After doing so research the propane pressure is pretty high: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/propane-vapor-pressure-d_1020.html Note the Logarithmic scale on the y-axis pressure . Propane fittings and hoses are treated as high pressure fittings that should be threaded and sealed, or machine crimped. They are similar to hydraulic lines.
-Option 3 is plug and play and easy. It will also replace the 15 year old hose and regulator which is probably a good thing!
Here is the 11# tank I will be mounting:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/401783_969881317908_1607621774_n.jpg)
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Resurfacing the SS table.
My table has a decent amount of scratches in it. Eww:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/405687_969881976588_918617807_n.jpg)
To remove the scratches I plan to use a progression of sandpaper. I have never tried this on SS so the grit I used will be experimental. Here are the supplies I will be using- Sanding block, wood straight edge, spray bottle with soapy water, clamps, sharpie, a paper towel, 220/320/400 grit sandpaper for wet sanding.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/417955_969882031478_1958502289_n.jpg)
First mark up the table to make sure you don't miss any scratches
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/579492_969881826888_997392372_n.jpg)
Now clamp your straight edge to the table, and start sanding! The water is good to prevent clumping on the sandpaper.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/580346_969881921698_143144032_n.jpg)
Make sure that you rotate your sanding block to make the grain even.
I hit it with the 320 and it was too fine to make a difference. So I used the 220:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/r270/581893_969881771998_854917649_n.jpg)
The 220 is the roughest I had. It removes all the oxidation and smaller scratches but the main ones were still there, although less noticable. I only did the large panel. Next time I am at the hardware store I'll pick up some 120/150/180. These are rougher than I am comfortable with so I'll have to take it easy.
Before and after
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/946666_969888608298_1417428530_n.jpg)
Full table. Note the streakiness.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/179156_969888673168_1020325359_n.jpg)
The table turned out pretty well, but a little streakier and shinier than oem. It's a good look for it!The sanding block doesn't leave an even grain since it's rigid and small. I ended up finishing it by hand which improved it alot. I will even it out once I get the new sand paper and do the small ss panel.
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Looks great, Lawrence.
I wrote in another thread about ss repair, picking up on a tip I got from an old-world craftsman who does resto work on Viking ranges and other high-end stuff. He, too emphasized the importance of straight lines, and the fact that you will not exactly *remove* large scratches with this method, but you will *disguise* them to a great degree. More like camoflage, I guess.
The differences in the two methods were using SS cleaner as a solvent rather than water (which is probably a negligable difference). He also cautioned not to go any coarser than 220 (he also didn't use finer paper than that).
I would also recommend removing the SS pieces from the frame if at all possible, because it's important to sand all the way past the end of the piece to eliminate sanding marks that come when the paper is stopped short of the end. It looks like your caution was rewarded with a flawless result though.
Thanks for posting all of these great tips, Lawrence. I especially appreciate the suggestion to mark out the scratches and pits with a sharpie. All of your excellent posts are making me even more eager to get started restoring my red SS.
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Looks great, Lawrence.
I wrote in another thread about ss repair, picking up on a tip I got from an old-world craftsman who does resto work on Viking ranges and other high-end stuff. He, too emphasized the importance of straight lines, and the fact that you will not exactly *remove* large scratches with this method, but you will *disguise* them to a great degree. More like camoflage, I guess.
The differences in the two methods were using SS cleaner as a solvent rather than water (which is probably a negligable difference). He also cautioned not to go any coarser than 220 (he also didn't use finer paper than that).
I would also recommend removing the SS pieces from the frame if at all possible, because it's important to sand all the way past the end of the piece to eliminate sanding marks that come when the paper is stopped short of the end. It looks like your caution was rewarded with a flawless result though.
Thanks for posting all of these great tips, Lawrence. I especially appreciate the suggestion to mark out the scratches and pits with a sharpie. All of your excellent posts are making me even more eager to get started restoring my red SS.
Thanks for the comment, Mike! Yep, I was sanding past the ss, but scratching up the black frame in the process. I am repainting that whole thing as well so I didn't really care, but I would suggest at least masking it. I guess you could remove it too, but it seems like the frame gives it rigidity. If your buddy at Viking can't get the scratches out then I am gonna leave it @ 220 grit. At the end of the day this is a cooker and will get scratches on the ss.
Here are some more tips that I forgot to add in:
-moderate pressure is best. You will bend the SS if you press too hard, and won't sand anything if you don't press hard enough.
-Mask the frame with tape if you dont want to scratch it up and can't or don't want to unmount the ss.
-Be careful with the sandpaper! I wasn't paying attention and spun it on the surface to rotate it and scratched the ss to hell. I needed to redo those parts, lol.
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Here is the 11# tank I will be mounting:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/401783_969881317908_1607621774_n.jpg)
Last page you mentioned that the large hole for mounting in the cart was 90* off. Is this the handle hole we see in the pic? So that is supposed to hang on the supplied hanger on the cart? The tank looks almost too big for the grill, I can't imagine what a 20lb would look like in there.
If anyone has some photos of what the tank should look like mounted I would appreciate it. I've seen plenty where the tank is visible, but I do not understand how it hangs there. My cart has the brackets, I think... Just no tank or regulator assembly for me to visualize what should be there and how it exactly is mounted.
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Mike, on page 6 of the user manual:http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/content/pdfs/135906-1.pdf
The tank hangs on the bracket part 52. The big opening on the collar goes on the top thing sticking out, and the bottom is supported by the lower thing sticking out. The bracket slides up and down by about 1.5" for easy access.
I hope this isn't a stupid question but did your performer come with gas assist? Is there a hole for the burner? Does it have casters on the other side?
I won't be using my old regulator. Do you want it? It was tested to work. Note that you will need to procure a compatible tank with the quick connect.
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Mike, on page 6 of the user manual:http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/content/pdfs/135906-1.pdf
The tank hangs on the bracket part 52. The big opening on the collar goes on the top thing sticking out, and the bottom is supported by the lower thing sticking out. The bracket slides up and down by about 1.5" for easy access.
I hope this isn't a stupid question but did your performer come with gas assist? Is there a hole for the burner? Does it have casters on the other side?
I won't be using my old regulator. Do you want it? It was tested to work. Note that you will need to procure a compatible tank with the quick connect.
It does have gas assist but the only stuff left there was the burner and ignitor. I'm not sure either one works as I'm still trying to take everything apart for a good cleaning. The old burner tube screws are rusted solid so I want to remove them and install some stainless ones. Hopefully today I'll be doing that. The side panel for tank mounting appears to be there, but I'm not sure all hardware is also with it. As far as I know I'm missing the tank and regulator assembly.
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Mike, on page 6 of the user manual:http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/content/pdfs/135906-1.pdf
The tank hangs on the bracket part 52. The big opening on the collar goes on the top thing sticking out, and the bottom is supported by the lower thing sticking out. The bracket slides up and down by about 1.5" for easy access.
I hope this isn't a stupid question but did your performer come with gas assist? Is there a hole for the burner? Does it have casters on the other side?
I won't be using my old regulator. Do you want it? It was tested to work. Note that you will need to procure a compatible tank with the quick connect.
It does have gas assist but the only stuff left there was the burner and ignitor. I'm not sure either one works as I'm still trying to take everything apart for a good cleaning. The old burner tube screws are rusted solid so I want to remove them and install some stainless ones. Hopefully today I'll be doing that. The side panel for tank mounting appears to be there, but I'm not sure all hardware is also with it. As far as I know I'm missing the tank and regulator assembly.
Cool. Those bolts grind or dremel right off. Good luck!
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Fixing dents.
So I managed to pick up another performer today. This one is green and has a huge dent in the lid.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/969991_972510913178_835900397_n.jpg)
There isnt anything special about fixing a dent. All you need is some patience and a hammer. YOU WILL MAKE THE PORCELAIN CHIPPING WORSE so it's up to you if it's worth the effort. My hammer is a 16oz ball peen i think, but you can use other sizes and vary the force. With small head hammers though it will be hard to get a smooth finish. EDIT- MAY 26. Jeff has had success with rubber mallets which might be easier on the porcelain.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/r180/264440_972510374258_302577998_n.jpg)
Dent from the inside
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/r90/947076_972510713578_440854128_n.jpg)
Start hitting it at the worst spot first usually in the middle of the dent. I prefer to use a ball peen hammer because the round head doesn't crease the metal as easily keeping it smoot. It helps to place the dented portion right on hard ground (place cardboard between the kettle and the ground to prevent scratches) The hard ground acts as your anvil. If you hit the kettle too hard (I doubt you will) the hammer wont go past the hard ground and cause an outward dent. You will notice that the steel is very tough. Don't be afraid to hit it. Keep hitting the dent at the worst spot until its more or less back to normal.
At this point the dent may look like this:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/486348_972512405188_1052601061_n.jpg)
The metal is back to where it's supposed to be, but it will be bumpy from the hammer. Hit the high spots from the outside, and the low spots from the inside (they will be a high spot inside) The flat side part of your ball peen is better here. Lightly tap only! It may also help to put the kettle on a bench or grass or something. You can use your free hand to muffle the kettle so your wife doesn't get annoyed by the pounding. You will notice that some creases will be impossible to get out, but do your best. Body shop repair guys use special hammers and dollies like this one that have a really flat head and curved anvils:
(http://stblogs.hotrod.com/files/2011/03/The-Eastwood-Company-7-Piece-Hammer-and-Dolly-Set-623x433.jpg)
Even those guys don't get it perfect though and need to use filler so be proud of improving your kettle!
Note that the porcelain chipping isn't that much worse than it was before. But it depends on the shape of your kettle dent and how bad you are with the hammer. ;)
With some patience you will get it smooth:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/936122_972510853298_434044830_n.jpg)
The porcelain on the outside is about the same because it was already chipped and rusted but on the inside it's a little worse on the initial crease. ymmv.
Stay safe out there, folks.
Total time: 5 min
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Lawrence...you did a great job on that SS surface.
Regarding taking out that dent, I have used a rubber mallet with great success several times on dents similar to that green one. You will cause WAY less damage to the outside finish. The steel hammer just shocks the other side and will chip up the paint even more.
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Lawrence...you did a great job on that SS surface.
Regarding taking out that dent, I have used a rubber mallet with great success several times on dents similar to that green one. You will cause WAY less damage to the outside finish. The steel hammer just shocks the other side and will chip up the paint even more.
Thanks, Jeff. Ill give rubber mallets a try.
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This Green performer is a "P" from 1994. I noticed a few interesting things on it. First, the thermometer cover has a "patent pending" on it. Secondly, the regulator doesn't have the quick release. The regulator is screwed on with a fitting.
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Is that the one on Craigs yesterday for $40? 8)
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Is that the one on Craigs yesterday for $40? 8)
I can't get anything past Team Cali, can I? ;)
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Aren't you part of team Cali? Actually, when you go to Chicago, you can be a "Double Agent".. 8)
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Aren't you part of team Cali? Actually, when you go to Chicago, you can be a "Double Agent".. 8)
Yeah I meant the other Team Cali members lol. The Weber Chicago mole, I like it!
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Just wondering if you have painted the frame parts of the table? If so what kind of paint did you use and brand?
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Just wondering if you have painted the frame parts of the table? If so what kind of paint did you use and brand?
Not yet but I will paint it soon. I'll be using whatever black I have lying around. Or a wrinkle finish from the automotive paint section if I decide to dress it up a bit.
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Just FYI, Lowe's has the glossier Rust Oleum high heat in cans with like 25-40% more in them in stock. $7+ a can, but its a big can and anything not flat black is awesome in my book. Hopefully they can come out with a 1,200 degree blue, red, green, and a yellow!
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OK, Time to get back on the resto horse and update my progress. Short post tonight!
Cleaning up the burner tube
The easiest way to clean your burner is to put your hose sprayer to JET and shoot it through the end. Picking at it or putting it up to the faucet works too, but those spidernests can be tricky. Degrease it with soap, then hit it with some 320 grit:
Before and After:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/q84/s720x720/1044024_986821729188_2033052183_n.jpg)
Total time <5 min
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Lifting the ss
I roll this performer around a lot and these wheels aren't cutting it. The caster wheels have flat spots and the brakes dont work properly. I went to Harbor Freight and bought these 10" tires with 5/8" axle hubs. They are super cheap, like 5 or 6 dollars a piece.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1047935_986822966708_2233086_o.jpg)
These things were kinda a pain to install. First 5/8" axle or of tube is very hard to get locally. My options were to buy a 5/8" coarse thread that was 3 or 4 feet long and cut it to length, or just buy the bolts, one for each tube side. I decided to try with a long bolt on each side at the possible expense of stability without a solid axle.
Drilling was also a pain. Most drill sets only go up to 1/2" I was to cheap to buy the step bit locally so I just bought a 5/8" drill bit and stepped up the axle hole as best as I can. I wanted this done TODAY otherwise I would have to wait a few weeks. Would not recommend! I managed to make the holes. They were a little rough but I fixed them with a file.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1025983_986822956728_995404818_o.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/977617_986823021598_48417860_n.jpg)
Now this side sits 1" higher. On the other side i am installing these really nice 5" urethane casters with brake. However, so much time passed that I forgot that there was than 1" difference so now the damn thing sits crooked. At least I have a spare performer cart. :-)
I would not recommend this mod. It looks cool but the axle drilling is a pain and the tires can and will go flat especially in places with big temp swings over the year. I would probably go with large plastic wheels found on garbage bins or wheelbarrows if I were to do it again.
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Sorry honey, no cooking tonight. The grill has a flat.....
All joking aside, those mods are cool. A true ATG. All terrain grill.
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Sorry honey, no cooking tonight. The grill has a flat.....
All joking aside, those mods are cool. A true ATG. All terrain grill.
Thanks, G. More like "Honey we can't cook on the Performer because I don't want to get it dirty before I finish it. True story. She is not amused but luckily we have other Weber devices.
I also stretched the work surface using all oem parts. I hope to be done with the grill in a few weeks.
(https://fbcdn-photos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/1011043_990395023278_635095327_n.jpg)
You can see the raked stance too. It sits higher at the kettle. Not my proudest moment. Lol
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So you got the "raked" part figured out......what about chopped & channeled....racing slicks?
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So you got the "raked" part figured out......what about chopped & channeled....racing slicks?
I had to chop the frame the fit the casters. Does that count? ;D
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Oh, absolutely......now what about headers & a nitrous tank?
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He's already polished the (after) burner tube 8)
Or does that count as a chrome dip stick?
And who needs painted flames when you have the real thing ;D
Chopped, channeled AND stretched! I really like the extension. Hinged of fixed?
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He's already polished the (after) burner tube 8)
Or does that count as a chrome dip stick?
And who needs painted flames when you have the real thing ;D
Chopped, channeled AND stretched! I really like the extension. Hinged of fixed?
Hinged extension. I haven't made the thing to hold it up yet though.
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Oh, absolutely......now what about headers & a nitrous tank?
I do see a tank; do we know if it's actually propane? Does the flame now get started with a red flip switch?
(http://image.hondatuningmagazine.com/f/8881834/0509ht_04z+Honda_CRX+Nos_Button_View.jpg)
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I have also upgraded it with a standalone engine management system aka STOKER. Lol. I've never use it with the kettle but it sure would look cool on it
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PBE I like the mods. And I admire your willingness to adapt the grill to your needs.
Little worried about what would seem to be added stress on the leg posts as the new axles work to exert force on the enlarged holes.
I'm imagining an axle about 3-4 inches long for each side and brackets that come down to locate the other end of each axle from the horizontal frame member. You'd then have an opportunity to tie the bottom cage to that.
But yes I realize you wanted to get a working solution together for this week, and have!
I spent a few days researching alternative casters. These 2 1/2" "office chair" casters are a weak link in all Webers that use them despite not being heavily loaded. Long story short, I didn't find anything I liked. Added height was part of the reason; "real" casters seem to start at 3" but the best selection seems to start with 4" and bigger models and anyway, casters that use the same type of "push-in" mechanism are mostly the dinky little ones ...
How did you mount them? Did you use the same or similar type of insert? I seem to recall the stem on the original casters having like a 7/16" diameter post and the caster inserts being 1 1/2" square? Can you shed any light on this? Thanks.
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PBE I like the mods. And I admire your willingness to adapt the grill to your needs.
Little worried about what would seem to be added stress on the leg posts as the new axles work to exert force on the enlarged holes.
I'm imagining an axle about 3-4 inches long for each side and brackets that come down to locate the other end of each axle from the horizontal frame member. You'd then have an opportunity to tie the bottom cage to that.
But yes I realize you wanted to get a working solution together for this week, and have!
I spent a few days researching alternative casters. These 2 1/2" "office chair" casters are a weak link in all Webers that use them despite not being heavily loaded. Long story short, I didn't find anything I liked. Added height was part of the reason; "real" casters seem to start at 3" but the best selection seems to start with 4" and bigger models and anyway, casters that use the same type of "push-in" mechanism are mostly the dinky little ones ...
How did you mount them? Did you use the same or similar type of insert? I seem to recall the stem on the original casters having like a 7/16" diameter post and the caster inserts being 1 1/2" square? Can you shed any light on this? Thanks.
ATS, I agree with you about the leg sockets. I knew I would need to drill it anyway so I went for it. For engineering types, the bigger wheel exerts additional moment on the hole, and they are cambered in due to weight and bearing tolerances. They also are farther out making the moment worse. I knew all that was gonna happen but it was a conscious decision based on cost, difficulty, and performance. I can always upgrade to a solid axle if it doesn't work out. Even drilled out the tube is very strong so I'm not worried about it breaking, just aesthetics and some minor misalignment issues that can be resolved with better mounting.
For the 5" casters with brake I used a 7/16" grip ring socket. It has two star nuts and a butt for square tube. If memory serves me right the ss tubes are 16ga 1 1/4" square. I'll link where I got it from but their website is down at the moment. It rolls and brakes amazingly. My performer is very heavy because of the tank, craycorts, and accessories in the bin. I used to have to pick it up like a wheelbarrow to move it but those days are over. The new wheel setup will roll away from you if you aren't paying attention on an incline and forget to set the brake.
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Hinged extension. I haven't made the thing to hold it up yet though.
How about the shelf setup from an older (wood) Genesis? Might work nice.
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Awesome, gummi. If you get a chance to post the link to the caster socket please do so.
I'd like to go that way too perhaps. I could always get the original plastic caster insert, which should continue to work OK for my lighter (stock) Performer but with maybe new 3" casters if I find some I like with the 7/16" grip ring post ...
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This is the caster socket with 2 star nuts I used. It fits almost perfectly.
http://apollocaster.com/store/1316-od-caster-socket-for-a-716-diameter-grip-ring-connector-89683-p-89683.html
(http://apollocaster.com/store/images/132700-Socket-Grip-Neck-Metal-Square-Tube.jpg)
There are also a ton of caster options there. It's overwhelming actually.
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This weekend I did the inaugural cook on the SS even though it's only 85% complete. I picked up a roti, painted the frame, filled the gas up, bought a NIB weber cover, and fired up some pollo a la brasa this weekend. I can't find the Weber name plates at the moment. :-[ I'll back update the progress one day.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/q71/s720x720/551072_10100122633957368_1773659208_n.jpg)
To do:
polish aluminum bits
make a thing to hold up the extension
add more stainless panels
paint weber nameplates
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This weekend I did the inaugural cook on the SS even though it's only 85% complete. I picked up a roti, painted the frame, filled the gas up, bought a NIB weber cover, and fired up some pollo a la brasa this weekend. I can't find the Weber name plates at the moment. :-[ I'll back update the progress one day.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/q71/s720x720/551072_10100122633957368_1773659208_n.jpg)
To do:
polish aluminum bits
make a thing to hold up the extension
add more stainless panels
paint weber nameplates
Loving the all terrain wheels.
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Those Uline green SJ shoes are pretty sharp too pb :D
Looking good so far , can't wait to see the finished product especially how you attach the fold down table
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Those Uline green SJ shoes are pretty sharp too pb :D
Scary that this was my exact first thought.
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This weekend I did the inaugural cook on the SS even though it's only 85% complete. I picked up a roti, painted the frame, filled the gas up, bought a NIB weber cover, and fired up some pollo a la brasa this weekend. I can't find the Weber name plates at the moment. :-[ I'll back update the progress one day.
To do:
polish aluminum bits
make a thing to hold up the extension
add more stainless panels
paint weber nameplates
Nice job! Love those wheels. This would be a good upgrade possibility for a RK - much easier to move around.
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(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/q71/s720x720/551072_10100122633957368_1773659208_n.jpg)
"The All Terrain Griller"
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Those Uline green SJ shoes are pretty sharp too pb :D
Scary that this was my exact first thought.
Those are my Lime Birkenstock's! They were much cheaper than the normal colored ones so I bought them. Dr. says they are good for my posture. ;D
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Lawrence...looking sharp! (The grill that is, I won't say anything about you and your green shoes! LOL)
I'm looking forward to seeing how you hinge up that extension...I have a spare table in my parts collection!
Did you dip the lid bail in the rubber/plastic coating? I don't think I noticed it in your most recent pics.
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The SS looks great, Lawrence! Outstanding work. Love those wood handles, too.
It's funny, I keep going to the trouble to use OEM Weber bolts to attach the bowl to the frame, because I think they look nicer from above, and kind of disappear from the front. But every single time I do an SS, the bolt heads turn white after a few weeks/months. Must be some kind of reaction of the black coating to the heat of the kettle. Anyway, I'll be using stainless bolts like you did from here on out.
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Lawrence...looking sharp! (The grill that is, I won't say anything about you and your green shoes! LOL)
I'm looking forward to seeing how you hinge up that extension...I have a spare table in my parts collection!
Did you dip the lid bail in the rubber/plastic coating? I don't think I noticed it in your most recent pics.
I figured out conceptually how I'm gonna hold the table up last night. It's top secret right now but I am going for a floating table look with no externally visible supports once extended. :) Yep, the entire lid bale is plastidipped. Looks good in black imo and doesn't scratch the lid. The only drawback is that it's more friction but you get used to unloading the lid pretty quickly. The reason you don't notice them is that my "recent" pics are actually old pics from the queue- This pic is the most recent- and I'm wearing my PBE Polo to boot!
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The SS looks great, Lawrence! Outstanding work. Love those wood handles, too.
It's funny, I keep going to the trouble to use OEM Weber bolts to attach the bowl to the frame, because I think they look nicer from above, and kind of disappear from the front. But every single time I do an SS, the bolt heads turn white after a few weeks/months. Must be some kind of reaction of the black coating to the heat of the kettle. Anyway, I'll be using stainless bolts like you did from here on out.
That's interesting, Mike. Have you tried paint? or maybe black oxide bolts? or if you rubs some oil on it every so often it will keep it black. I like the contrast of the stainless across the entire bbq- It goes well with the ss top and the black frame. The costs do add up though.
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Plastidip!
I wanted to preserve my lid as best as possible. Well loved performers will have these tiny scratches from the lid bail. I wanted this thing to outlast me, so I figured I would soften the bail with plastidip. I toyed around with the idea of header exhaust wrap and what not, but I decided to give plastidip a try. I also had spray plastidip but this dip get's it much thicker.
Here are some tips.
Make sure you mix the plastidip well with a skewer or something. When exposed to air, this stuff gets tacky almost immediately. Also when the bottle has been sitting oils and stuff go to the top and you don't get good coverage.
The key to getting a good coating is to pull it out in one continuous and slow motion. Watch out for the ledges and undercuts. Plastidip will pool there and clump up, look ugly and drip. Unlike paint, you really can't touch up this stuff.
I made a long and skiny through for that actual bail dipping since it was too long for the tube. This is really tricky because the large surface area causes the pool of plastidip to get tacky immediately. If you keep the bale submerged as you pull from one end to the other, you get nice and even coverage.
I did most of the parts in 2 steps so I had a place to dry them. I used paper clips and bobby pins to hold them up.
(https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/q71/s720x720/1017581_986821659328_1266032278_n.jpg)
Notice how the top of this guy is streaky- That's what happens when you don't mix plastidip when it has sat for a while. I redid this piece.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/q71/s720x720/375608_986821664318_685013550_n.jpg)
Same streakiness seen on this part but I just left it. I overlapped the dipping on the other side so that there is only one seam in the middle It came out pretty evenly. The Z bend on this part is where the plastidip accumulates the most when dipping. It's still super thick there but I just dealt with it.
(https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/q79/s720x720/1005941_986821814018_688611470_n.jpg)
No closeups at the moment but you can see the blacked out bail on this pic.
(https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/q74/s720x720/1185892_10100122484102678_1080212434_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/q75/s720x720/1186290_10100142526307938_1752617544_n.jpg)
Overall I like this mod but it does make the lid stick on the bail. You can't roll it in as easily as oem but I don't mind- no scratches on my lid from here on.
Total time: 20 min active time, but 2 coats are needed plus drying time.
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New accessories:
Reproduction Original Ash catcher bar for 7409 sweeps.
(https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/q81/s720x720/1381444_10100142517021548_829445418_n.jpg)
Available here: http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/weber-kettles-accessories/okay-who-is-really-interested-one-one-of-these/
Why you want one: http://weberkettleclub.com/forums/weber-kettles-accessories/diy-old-style-one-touch-gold-ash-catcher-bar/
OEM SS Performer Premium Cover:
(https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/q73/s720x720/1384348_10100142517011568_905331763_n.jpg)
Perfect fit!
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/q80/s720x720/1382833_10100142517016558_1873240107_n.jpg)
The material is decently heavy duty. It keeps the water out during light rain. The only gripe that I have is that the table portion is flat and pools water and I wish that there was a bungee eyelet at the bottom to keep it secured.
(https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/q82/s720x720/1377991_10100142517006578_77326930_n.jpg)
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Gummi Bear-
Is there something (probably made of plastic) that you can set on the SS-table which would keep water from pooling on your new cover? (Maybe a smallish plastic bowl, or section of plastic rain gutter flipped upside-down?)
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Gummi Bear-
Is there something (probably made of plastic) that you can set on the SS-table which would keep water from pooling on your new cover? (Maybe a smallish plastic bowl, or section of plastic rain gutter flipped upside-down?)
There is, but it barely rains here so it's not a big deal.