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Stainless Steel No Weld Mini Ranch Design

Started by ReanimatedRobot, August 16, 2020, 04:30:50 AM

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ReanimatedRobot

@AZ2FL

I just had to offer to pay because you are being generous.  I would at least want to pay you for shipping.  I wouldn't want you to ask your management unless it was cool of you to do so either.  I managed to find something similar on Grainger and a roll of it 6" wide would run me a fair penny and require cutting into long strips which with my available tools will not be a precise cut.  Guessing from what I see on Grainger it may 302 of 316 grade.  Whatever grade it is free is free and it will likely be in the garage when not in use. :p
After I draw up some plans I will probably shoot you a PM to work it out.

The flat stock certainly seems to be the way to go to avoid some head ache in terms of shaping the metal.  I really wasn't looking forward to fighting it, but would if I had to. 

Right now I am leaning towards the 2" or 3" bands because at that thickness it will certainly tuck in under the lip of the bowl rather than resting on the lip of the bowl.  One thing I am debating is whether or not to use one piece or add some thickness by using two pieces. 

I am kind of hoping swamprb will chime in and give some insight especially since his build is giving this one some inspiration.  Always good to learn from the lessons/advice of others when you can.

ISO: 18" & 22" Lime, 22" Cado, Plum SSP, Clean & Colored 18" for Midget Mod, and the usual Grails.

AZ2FL

@ReanimatedRobot

Management is totally cool with letting us have scrap materials, as long as I ask!

I can always send two pieces of 2" x 96" and one 3" x 96" and let you figure it out... lol 

Hopefully @swamprb can provide more insight for your mini ranch build.

Once you figure it out, shoot me a PM

ReanimatedRobot

Some initial drawings of what I have in mind.  Decided to keep the cross braces in a criss cross formation on different levels like the regular ranch frame.  I did this because I figured it would be more structurally sound and easier to keep the whole frame square.  Worst case scenario when/if I add a lower table I can mount square tube to the lower cross bar to level things out. 

Sent from my SM-G981U using Weber Kettle Club mobile app

ISO: 18" & 22" Lime, 22" Cado, Plum SSP, Clean & Colored 18" for Midget Mod, and the usual Grails.

ReanimatedRobot

@Bob BQ or @Kneab

Could I get the measurements for the mounting ring on your Summit Charcoal bowl?  I believe my ring would be close to these measurements.

Does the tool holder simply hook onto the mounting ring before you place the bowl into the ring? What is the approximate width of the tool holder? 

I am thinking of a clean way to add tool hooks to the cart and hooking them onto the ring somehow seems to be the cleanest way to do it.  The part number is 65879.  Given that it is stainless steel and fits well with the Summit Charcoal it would probably fit well with this build. I also think that the curviture of the Weber ring and my ring will be close enough that it should work without a lot of modification assuming there is enough space between the mounting leg and front handle.
ISO: 18" & 22" Lime, 22" Cado, Plum SSP, Clean & Colored 18" for Midget Mod, and the usual Grails.

Kneab

I will try to pull the bowl out tomorrow and measure it for you.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Weber Kettle Club mobile app

ISO Brown Go Anywhere

View to a Grill

Have you thought about using stainless steel pipe?  They make 90 degree 3 way elbow fittings.  You can order different lengths of pre-threaded pipe.. IDK... just an idea
View to a Grill on YouTube

ReanimatedRobot

Looking at the Summit Charcoal plans I see that they used silicone edging between the bowl and mounting ring.  Looks like something similar from McMaster-Carr has a heat rating between -80 to 450 degrees.  The one thing that the Summit has that the 26 doesn't have for something like this is a multi wall design that might keep the heat way from the outside bowl.  It looks like a tidier option than the fiberglass rope/fabric, but the fiberglass comes with a much higher heat rating. 
https://www.mcmaster.com/silicone-rubber-edge-trim/

I may have to do some testing next time I run my 22 kettle with the IR thermometer to see how warm the bowl edge gets. 
ISO: 18" & 22" Lime, 22" Cado, Plum SSP, Clean & Colored 18" for Midget Mod, and the usual Grails.

AZ2FL

Quote from: ReanimatedRobot on August 20, 2020, 07:49:19 AM
Looking at the Summit Charcoal plans I see that they used silicone edging between the bowl and mounting ring.  Looks like something similar from McMaster-Carr has a heat rating between -80 to 450 degrees.  The one thing that the Summit has that the 26 doesn't have for something like this is a multi wall design that might keep the heat way from the outside bowl.  It looks like a tidier option than the fiberglass rope/fabric, but the fiberglass comes with a much higher heat rating. 
https://www.mcmaster.com/silicone-rubber-edge-trim/

I may have to do some testing next time I run my 22 kettle with the IR thermometer to see how warm the bowl edge gets.

I looked at the high temp rubber/foam style #4 with "A" dim 1/16" (p/n 4869A71). Parts are rather small see attached pic, it's to scale. Red is rubber and blue SS band.

You could use hi temp adhesive spray or hi temp fireplace caulk to adhere fiberglass fabric to inside of SS band.


ReanimatedRobot

@AZ2FL

I know that the edging wouldn't cover the band entirely.  It would only coat the top edge of the ring, but I believe this would be the only contact point with the kettle.   The heat rating is the only concern at 450 degrees.  I don't think in normal use the external temp of the kettle would get this hot, but maybe with a SnS concentrating heat it could get pretty warm. 

Fiberglass is likely going to be the way to go, but finding the right adhesive is the trick.  The best idea I have at this point is to use a combination of fiberglass rope edge seals/fabric that is bonded to the ring with JB weld high heat silicone that is rated for continuous temps of 550 degrees and intermittent at 650 degrees.  Hopefully the exterior heat on the bowl would be less than the 550, especially with a layer of fiberglass acting as a buffer between the adhesive.  There is also some fireplace cement/adhesive products that is commonly used but they become solid and require a heat treatment to cure that I cannot be certain to achieve.

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-31314-Temperature-Silicone/dp/B00ID8IUJY/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=high+temperature+rtv+6500&qid=1597985468&sr=8-1
ISO: 18" & 22" Lime, 22" Cado, Plum SSP, Clean & Colored 18" for Midget Mod, and the usual Grails.

AZ2FL

@ReanimatedRobot
Extruded rubber would be the best choice, assuming your 22" kettle bowl temp test is 450* or less.

Earlier this year I converted a 17" x 21" x 60" aluminum bread proofer into a vertical smoker. To seal the door I used high temp bbq gasket with Permatex High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket Maker. This worked great with no issues. Vertical smoker never sees internal temps above 200*. It's used for smoking summer sausage, fish, bacon and sausage

Bbq gasket link
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015DAI8K0?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I think your on the right track, I'm looking forward to your build.


ReanimatedRobot

Nice! That gasket actually looks pretty good. Could probably apply it to the top of the ring sand make a few cuts here and there to fold it over the edge if the metal.  Might look at their other products too.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Weber Kettle Club mobile app

ISO: 18" & 22" Lime, 22" Cado, Plum SSP, Clean & Colored 18" for Midget Mod, and the usual Grails.

AZ2FL

#26
I believe the bbq gasket would work perfect for your application.
Gasket does have a very light weight adhesive backing. It's was meant for BGE type cookers.

How I installed it was to lay down a thin beard (1/8" dia.) of hi temp rtv, removed backing from bbq gasket. Applied bbq gasket adhesive side down with light pressure onto rtv and let sit for about 45 minutes to let rtv setup. After 45 mins I closed cabinet door to form a good seal and let set for 24 hours. I know your not trying to seal smoke but protect 26" porcelain bowl.

I've never see a ranch kettle in person, just pictures. I want one, but not willing to pay $1,500 for a new ranch.

Venison snacks and summer sausage in the coffin.   Lol

Keep us posted on your 26" ranch project.

Walchit


andrewshrm

Lots of great ideas being shared here.  I've tried to hand-bend 1/8" steel flat stock for grill attachments before, and it didn't result in an elegant smooth curve like my imagination told me it would.  I'm still not sure, however, that anything less than 1/8" would be stout enough for supporting the bowl.  It will be pretty dang heavy by the time you get it loaded up with charcoal, a SNS XL, some cast iron, etc.  Agree with the recommendation on fiberglass gasket - they make that in a flat variety (instead of a round fiberglass rope) that would work really well on that ring.

I've never seen anyone build out a Performer / Kettle Table frame using iron plumbing pipe fittings.  Maybe that's an option?  I could see someone making a beautiful table out of iron pipe fittings... that's a style that's very on-trend these days.  Lowe's and Amazon also carry a line of structural pipe fittings called SteelTek in both galvanized and black finish.  You'd still have a chore in chopping the pipe to length, but maybe you've got a chop saw that could work with that easy enough.

Excited to see how it comes along!