Rusted Performer Legs

[PayBack]

Ok, the legs that came with my Performer were rusty when opening my 2010 model Performer. I opened it late last year and was lucky enough to get a new set. I am planning on putting the grill together but got to thinking about refurbishing the rusted legs and paint them all black. Any ideas how I can tackle this properly? I have no experience doing a project like this. Thanks in advanced.




Sent from my iPhone using Weber Kettle Club mobile app

[PayBack]

I bought some rustoleum aircraft remover to strip the paint. Then I'll take care of the rust. Don't know how I'm going to tackle the paint. I'll post pictures as I go.

[toolhead]

are the legs of the gen 2 performer steel.. i always thought they maybe aluminum...

proper way to repaint rusted metal.

sand all rust completely off, wipe down with denatured alcohol or mineral spirits. etc..
let dry completely.. i tend to take water after and wipe down again/ let dry completely.

then i use rustoleum high heat paint, which requires no primer/ 2 coats per oem instructions...

once you perform the prep.. follow whatever instructions are recommended from the paint can.

given the rust is @ the bottom of the legs.. dont worry about using high heat temp.. unless you are buying the paint.. as you may want to use same paint to touch up other areas closer to the kettle/ higher heat action.

if you have std paint laying around.. i would use that ..if only painting the bottom section of the legs.. you wont have much heat exposure in that area..

good luck

[PayBack]

are the legs of the gen 2 performer steel.. i always thought they maybe aluminum...

proper way to repaint rusted metal.

sand all rust completely off, wipe down with denatured alcohol or mineral spirits. etc..
let dry completely.. i tend to take water after and wipe down again/ let dry completely.

then i use rustoleum high heat paint, which requires no primer/ 2 coats per oem instructions...

once you perform the prep.. follow whatever instructions are recommended from the paint can.

given the rust is @ the bottom of the legs.. dont worry about using high heat temp.. unless you are buying the paint.. as you may want to use same paint to touch up other areas closer to the kettle/ higher heat action.

if you have std paint laying around.. i would use that ..if only painting the bottom section of the legs.. you wont have much heat exposure in that area..

good luck

I don't know if they're  steel or aluminum. I'll do some research to find out. I was thinking of painting them black to make it unique. I appreciate the tips @toolhead and will plan to do it this weekend. Will I need high heat paint if I'm re painting all of it? I know the bowl sits on the legs, does that transfer heat pretty well?

[toolhead]

if repainting all of it.. i wouldn't dick around and just buy the high heat rustoleum.. home depot/ lowes has it..

its a fair amount of work.. to then see paint peel off a few months later and have to redo..

the high heat spray cans are cheap...  your labour / time/ energy is worth more than using non heat laying in the garage and then having to do a redo on everything..

for legs only.. you should only need 1 spray can..BUT BUY 2.. in case you go heavy and for some reason run low.. you dont lose an hour..going to buy a 2nd can.

you can probably always find use for it.. i always buy more than what i estimate so i dont lose time.. having to buy more while in the middle of a project..

and if you dont hit the 2nd can ..you can always return it @ your leisure..

[toolhead]

just be sure to have enough sandpaper and estimate the time..

what you see is part of the rust.. as you sand down that area.. you will see paint flake off and more rust underneath..keep sanding away from that area..until you hit bright unrusted metal..

the part you see is just what has rusted to point of making the paint fail...its creeping further under that paint than you can visibly see.

plan on popping off the leg caps.. as the rust is under there too..

proper prep will offer you an end product that will be headache free for several years plus..

[toolhead]

oh and sandpaper.. i always have 60 grit/ 100/ 220 in the garage..

you can probably start with 60 for faster removal of paint/ rust and then refinish with 100 grit to smooth out for paint..

220 is for a really slick finish and not required for grills...

sometimes when i paint a room .. i use 100 grit and then paint. i dont even graduate to 220.. 100 grit leaves a decent smooth surface to naked eye for most projects.

[PayBack]

Thank you @toolhead ! Would it be necessary for 2 coats or will 1 suffice?

[toolhead]

I do 2 coats always....

Prep is the hardest part....pushing the nozzle on a spray can is the easy part....why not do the easy part 2x for added longe ity of the fruits of your labour.



Just like painting the room..prep is the hardest part...moving furniture...patching drywall..sanding wipe down ..removing windkw treatments...mixing paint cleaning brushes etc...

Applying paint is the easiest part of the job

[SmokenJoe]

@toolhead  Thanks from many of us  ...   great advice on some basic, but often unknown, paint techniques (wisdom)

SJ